Tangband W8-1808 in sealed box

Just now simmed out that TB driver....don't even bother to use a sealed enclosure, while very small at only 55.7 liters worth of enclosure, the low-end performance is poor, -3.02 Db at 72..23 hertz....no bass.
Within the ported camp of which the simulation recommends, with some careful tuning...an enclosure of 180 liters worth gets one -3.05 Db at 34.14 hertz ...far far better. Tuning at 38 hertz.

---------------------------------------Rick...
 
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TB-W8-1808-sealed.png


Sim suggests something between 50 and a 100 litres. F10 somewhere betweem low 40s to mid 30s.

F3 is meaningless to humans (ref Toole). Look at F6 as well

dave
 
Any experience with Tang Band W8-1808 in sealed box?
No experience…… but the driver QTS at .44 CLEARLY indicates this driver SHOULD only be used in a sealed or open baffle alignment. In the case of sealed, a helper/assist woofer would be strongly advised. You DO NOT have to spoil the full range experience of the W8 with a high pass filter. Model and build the sealed enclosure then add your helper woofer low pass filter to extend the response flat.
 
I had the 1772.
It's a very delicate cone, and asking it to play bass will induce distortion.
I crossed it to woofers at 300Hz and the sound cleaned up very nicely.
Also, it does not sound good as is. It needs at least two notches, better yet three, to sound good. If you are active, it is easy to tame those peaks, but passive, you will need to design them. Once you tame the peaks and free it from bass, it sounds very nice, and doesn't beam as badly as the 8" cone would suggest.

You are in the price range of the SATORI MT19CP-8 . Might be something to look at?
 
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I can't see much wrong with a traditional vented alignment; Vb = 61.2 litres, Fb = 45Hz based on the published data with 0.5ohm series R accounted for for typical wire-loop, connection losses etc., and average box lagging, leakage losses. Broadish rise to just under 1dB peaking an octave above Fb, broad vent tuning & a well-damped rolloff below that. You can increase that last further if desired by critically damping the vent via the old click test.

Re 'something better' -I don't know about 'better' but if you want 'different', I'd possibly look toward a low-crossed 2-way, with a quality mid-tweet like the MAOP5, CHN-50 (a real sleeper -this is essentially the mid-tweet used in the old commercial MA-Sota speakers, with a nicer basket) Scan 4424 or similar depending on your persuasion, and your choice of low-distortion partnering woofer. I've a few of these designs on the virtual drawing board, which I've yet to plague the long-suffering Dave with 😉 with a quick test-baffle response check completed too for one. If I had the time & money (and space) it'd be a worthy project, especially if you really start going to town on some of the details, as I was looking at.
 
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So as noted above, you can do as the pioneers did and damp out what you don't need. In the search for Goldilocks perfection, it's always better to start out with too much than too little. Too much you can do something about (i.e. you have a system that you can tune to suit your requirements). It's a lot harder to increase what doesn't exist in the first place. 😉

For example: this is the box I referred to, well-lagged, with the vent critically damped as described above. If this is 'too much bass' then I'd say you're looking at the wrong driver.
 

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That might as well be an open baffle....there's no resonant or compliance loading going on there.
Dave beat me to it, but actually there's quite a lot. That enclosure isn't far off one of the trad. vented alignment volume alignments (so plenty of Helmholtz / cavity resonance going on -you can't really have an open cavity that doesn't), with 8x high[ish] aspect ratio vents summing to roughly Sd.