I am finishing up a pair of esls, and they sound real good. They are also large, complex and delicate. my next project idea is some nice simple bookshelves. no biwiring, no beaming, simple.
Before i dove into ESL research i built some ribbon tweeters which i intend on using. Maybe crossed over from 2-5 khz.
what is a good, small, high power, midrange, and what box design should i go for? ported somehow is a neat idea, but i have heard porting can be be tricky.
i will use this thread til the project is done, read along!
Before i dove into ESL research i built some ribbon tweeters which i intend on using. Maybe crossed over from 2-5 khz.
what is a good, small, high power, midrange, and what box design should i go for? ported somehow is a neat idea, but i have heard porting can be be tricky.
i will use this thread til the project is done, read along!
i like this Hi-Vi friver from PE. 4" with a frequency response of 50-3,000hz.
http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&DID=7&Partnumber=297-429
Is there a program which ill help me design a crossover? maybe speaker workshop?
this will be my first crossover. any help is very very apreciated!
http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&DID=7&Partnumber=297-429
Is there a program which ill help me design a crossover? maybe speaker workshop?
this will be my first crossover. any help is very very apreciated!
For help in choosing a box design and how to design a crossover, I recommend reading a book such as Vance Dickason's Loudspeaker Design Cookbook. There are others as well that are good reads, David Weems' books come to mind. I bet all of your questions would be covered in them.
When I first got into building speakers I bought every book I could find on the subject. When you are done reading them, they make great reference material for going back to.
When I first got into building speakers I bought every book I could find on the subject. When you are done reading them, they make great reference material for going back to.
THings to wory about now and latter:
Tade I would get my hands on Vance Dickason's Loudspeaker Design Cookbook. You will find more good answers to more questions than you can shake a stick at. Things said in this forum will make a whole lot more sense. And you will be more able to filter out the armchair quarterbacks more easily.
As for phase or better said coherent wavefront launch. You can create a step in the baffle. To figure out the actual acoustical center of the woofer is not so easy. It changes with frequency. As a rule of thumb I always looked at the angle of the cone. From this angle you can estimate how much farther down it would continue to make a point. THat is what I use as a defacto acoustical center. It is not exact. But it is a good starting point.
Your ESL's have a uniform or coherent wavelaunch over most of the frequency range. SOme people say that is why they sound so good. MAybe yes maybe no?
Mark
Tade I would get my hands on Vance Dickason's Loudspeaker Design Cookbook. You will find more good answers to more questions than you can shake a stick at. Things said in this forum will make a whole lot more sense. And you will be more able to filter out the armchair quarterbacks more easily.
As for phase or better said coherent wavefront launch. You can create a step in the baffle. To figure out the actual acoustical center of the woofer is not so easy. It changes with frequency. As a rule of thumb I always looked at the angle of the cone. From this angle you can estimate how much farther down it would continue to make a point. THat is what I use as a defacto acoustical center. It is not exact. But it is a good starting point.
Your ESL's have a uniform or coherent wavelaunch over most of the frequency range. SOme people say that is why they sound so good. MAybe yes maybe no?
Mark
I built the cabs and put the drivers in. The main cabinet has one and a quarter inches of fiber board on all sides. they weight about twenty pounds apiece. All that means the cabinates are about dead sonically. The front baffle is only one piece of board which i hope to replace with a nice solid piece of oak. Maybe stained red. The rear part, i think will be coated in bondo and given a nice black paint finish. The four inch drivers, sound wonderful though they arent perfect. I dropped a screwdriver on one, gouged a centimeter long ditch in it. The tweeters, are very fast and sweet.
Pics later
Pics later
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