Would this be something worthwhile to construct? I have to add thickness to the face to keep the driver from hitting the internal baffle so I'm wondering if this is a better sounding solution than just doubling up the thickness of the front panel.
Go for it, here's mine http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&postid=1420693#post1420693
They work well and solve the depth issue.. I got the idea from looking at Terry Cains beautiful work.. Mine are just flat circles and I know they are not the best, but work ok for me... There are many shapes one could use.. Have fun.. Dave🙂
They work well and solve the depth issue.. I got the idea from looking at Terry Cains beautiful work.. Mine are just flat circles and I know they are not the best, but work ok for me... There are many shapes one could use.. Have fun.. Dave🙂
very nice. I like the circular shape ... but I'm a little worried about my ability to pull off a smooth cut. I'll give it a shot.
It's really hard to make a perfect circle with a jigsaw. I did mine that way and they are not perfect but just pass.. You could maybe take your wood to a car audio place and have them whip out a couple circles for you, they do that all the time and have the proper tools etc..
Dave🙂
Dave🙂
This should be in the bib thread but it sort of relates here.
After making a flush mount for the driver in a BIB (not part of the original build process) I have the bumping on the rear of the
internal baffle problem.
I'm chopping it out as neatly as possible and will make a modification to the baffle with a router.
However, Godzilla made the wider baffle the whole length of the front.
This saves the agony of circle cutting.
What I'm wondering is, if I remove the baffle front made to measurement and put a new baffle across the whole front, it would change the horn path but avoid having to cut into the internal divider.
The change would be the depth of the flush mounted front by plus 3/4 inch or whatever the true thickness of the material is.
But with the repair in progress I'll prob'ly fix what I have.
Other idea is this:
Back when my BIB was new I got an oval wooden plaque from the
hobby store (the kind used to paint on or mount fish.) Those things also come in round.
After making a flush mount for the driver in a BIB (not part of the original build process) I have the bumping on the rear of the
internal baffle problem.
I'm chopping it out as neatly as possible and will make a modification to the baffle with a router.
However, Godzilla made the wider baffle the whole length of the front.
This saves the agony of circle cutting.
What I'm wondering is, if I remove the baffle front made to measurement and put a new baffle across the whole front, it would change the horn path but avoid having to cut into the internal divider.
The change would be the depth of the flush mounted front by plus 3/4 inch or whatever the true thickness of the material is.
But with the repair in progress I'll prob'ly fix what I have.
Other idea is this:
Back when my BIB was new I got an oval wooden plaque from the
hobby store (the kind used to paint on or mount fish.) Those things also come in round.
I'd be inclined to not cut into the internal divider, and double up the front ,or make a circle or other baffle shape to help with the depth issue. The extra thickness will not effect the horn path etc.. Dave🙂
Good point. I'm about halfway done removing the front. It isn't easy.
You'd think that caulk would separate with a cake spatula (like i thought when applying it) but it's been going slow. Even to replace, I have to complete the job and reglue.
The idea would be to make a shallow route in the shape of a taper
sort of like a shoe insole. The only part that touches is the very top
at the narrow part of the internal baffle.
Putting an new baffle over will change the look and proportion of what I have. Also screw up my grille covering.
This is the psychology of previous investment working.
You'd think that caulk would separate with a cake spatula (like i thought when applying it) but it's been going slow. Even to replace, I have to complete the job and reglue.
The idea would be to make a shallow route in the shape of a taper
sort of like a shoe insole. The only part that touches is the very top
at the narrow part of the internal baffle.
Putting an new baffle over will change the look and proportion of what I have. Also screw up my grille covering.
This is the psychology of previous investment working.
Well after sleeping on it, I think I have a good compromise.
The depth of the flush mount is 3/16 in. Thickness of come
MDF or Masonite I have as scrap is the same.
If I make strips and put the strips on the side panels along the length, then place the removed baffle on a flat surface and capped with the cabinet, that should raise up the 3/16th inch, be even and ready to re-glue.
I can't say that I expect a lot of change in performance. And I can continue to use my decorative grille.
(From other threads, readers will know I've built a single BIB unit and
use various of my builds asymmetriclly to compare and contrast the sound.)
The depth of the flush mount is 3/16 in. Thickness of come
MDF or Masonite I have as scrap is the same.
If I make strips and put the strips on the side panels along the length, then place the removed baffle on a flat surface and capped with the cabinet, that should raise up the 3/16th inch, be even and ready to re-glue.
I can't say that I expect a lot of change in performance. And I can continue to use my decorative grille.
(From other threads, readers will know I've built a single BIB unit and
use various of my builds asymmetriclly to compare and contrast the sound.)
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