Super, just read thread where you said that you biamp with your passive crossovers. Mate, I'm probably about to tell you what you already know, have you tried active crossovers?
It maybe that the cheapest improvement to your system is lurking just out of site.
I multi amp a lot, PAs and hifi, often I do as you have and biamping with passive crossovers works well but every time that I changed from passive to active it has been a vast improvement, (well I thought so anyway and nobody has ever disagreed).
If you have followed some of my earlier post you might have guessed that I'm a bit of a control freak. I like all my drivers well behaved, (low, mid and high).
I have demonstrated the effect a number of times to clients/friends. If you are not dB shy turn up the wick on an active biamped system, be careful, without knowing it, we normally measure volume by the amount of distortion we hear. It just gets tighter and clearer.
That say, 20%, improvement that you got going passive biamped, expect another 20% when you try active biamping, (how's that for a subjective sentence).
I you go active, take out any series crossover components, you can leave in some of the shunt components, but that's another issue.
Before I go, one warning and another apology. Be careful of your tweeters, think of their limits before reaching for the throttle. If, as we say downunder, I have been trying to teach my grandmother how to suck eggs, then please ignore this post.
Fellow Forum Followers, if there is something that I have left out, (there is bound to be) please jump in.
Regards WALKER
PS Super if it is true that you're still in your teens, then, if I had the knowledge that you appear to have when I was your age, I would forgotten twice as much as I have by now.
It maybe that the cheapest improvement to your system is lurking just out of site.
I multi amp a lot, PAs and hifi, often I do as you have and biamping with passive crossovers works well but every time that I changed from passive to active it has been a vast improvement, (well I thought so anyway and nobody has ever disagreed).
If you have followed some of my earlier post you might have guessed that I'm a bit of a control freak. I like all my drivers well behaved, (low, mid and high).
I have demonstrated the effect a number of times to clients/friends. If you are not dB shy turn up the wick on an active biamped system, be careful, without knowing it, we normally measure volume by the amount of distortion we hear. It just gets tighter and clearer.
That say, 20%, improvement that you got going passive biamped, expect another 20% when you try active biamping, (how's that for a subjective sentence).
I you go active, take out any series crossover components, you can leave in some of the shunt components, but that's another issue.
Before I go, one warning and another apology. Be careful of your tweeters, think of their limits before reaching for the throttle. If, as we say downunder, I have been trying to teach my grandmother how to suck eggs, then please ignore this post.
Fellow Forum Followers, if there is something that I have left out, (there is bound to be) please jump in.
Regards WALKER
PS Super if it is true that you're still in your teens, then, if I had the knowledge that you appear to have when I was your age, I would forgotten twice as much as I have by now.
walker: Unfortunately, given my present financial state, I don't have the funds necessary to create an active system. I just forked over $3000 US on my first car (1979 Firebird, yay!), but I am perfectly aware that there are numerous sonic benefits to doing so.
If, rather, WHEN I go the active crossover route, I don't plan on using my current speakers. I'm just not happy with their sound, so I'm looking forward to building a set of active WATT look-alikes (when I save up enough for the Scanspeak drivers), which I'd really love to tri-amp and have Marchand's active crossover sitting on my component rack.
Thanks for all the input.
If, rather, WHEN I go the active crossover route, I don't plan on using my current speakers. I'm just not happy with their sound, so I'm looking forward to building a set of active WATT look-alikes (when I save up enough for the Scanspeak drivers), which I'd really love to tri-amp and have Marchand's active crossover sitting on my component rack.
Thanks for all the input.
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