Subwoofer Suitable for 300HZ

I am searching for a suitable Sub that could do up to 300Hz at high volume output of 90db or above. I am building new HTS and my design limitation for tower speakers is that the max size of driver can only be 4". 4" drivers are unable to do sub 300Hz without distortion. What can be best suitable Sub which can do up to 300Hz without distortion. No limit on budget.
 
Hard to beat your scanspeak, SCAN SPEAK 12MU/4731T00 (Mid-range 4", 4 Ohm, 150 Wmax)
but there's at least this one that seems to beat it in low range, but has ugly ringing at 7,5khz :
TB SPEAKERS W4-1720 (Mid-woofer 4", 4 Ohm, 60 Wmax)
I did consider those as woofers in 3-way but I was told that they were no good either at low end below 300Hz. Yeah I am fine doing 3-way crossover but need suitable woofers which perform extremely well at low end and be 4" in dia. The problem with those TB W4-1720s is that it is not loud enough to be paired with RAAL + ScanSpeak combo even with pairing two TBs in parallel.
 
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I told you already in an other tread that if you use a sub that high, you need to make it a part of the stereo tower, otherwise you will mess up your stereo image. A SB SB34NRX75-6 is what i would use, sealed or ported (both are possible). If you stay below 120-150Hz, you can use a seperate sub, and again, the same driver is very fit for it.
 
The issue here isn't how far the sub driver can theoretically go without distortion and a flat frequency response, it's about localisation to the subwoofer when things are crossed too high.

If a three way is okay then this opens up a number of options.

If a deep cabinet is okay then you could go side mounted woofer. There are some shallow mount subwoofer drivers you could go with. The idea wouldn't be to have them work as a sub, just as a bass driver and get you cleanly from the mid crossover down to where you want the real sub to take over. Obviously a side mounted sub would still go down to 40Hz without any issue. Providing you have power and EQ.

The other option would be some tang band bass drivers below the 12MU. A couple of models exist with varying parameters and suitability.

W3-2108 is the smallest of the bunch. Very low sensitivity but will work in small cabinets. It'll go decently low for a driver of the size and has good xmax too. If money was no object I'd look at 4 of them in a series/parallel config for an end 4 ohm load.

If you can work with the size of the W4-2089 then this would be a very good option. Basically the W30-2108 but with more of everything. Again multiple pairs to get sensitivity up.

Finally the W46-1316N.

All would work in a slim tower.

Use one (4 ohm load), use two (in series for 8 ohm load), use four (series/parallel for 4 ohm load). Use them with passive radiators or sealed. Just model them with how much cabinet volume you've got available to see what you'll need.

Obviously these aren't meant to give you sub bass, just go deep/loud enough to mate with the real sub. For that you'll need at least 100Hz extension.
 
The issue here isn't how far the sub driver can theoretically go without distortion and a flat frequency response, it's about localisation to the subwoofer when things are crossed too high.

If a three way is okay then this opens up a number of options.

If a deep cabinet is okay then you could go side mounted woofer. There are some shallow mount subwoofer drivers you could go with. The idea wouldn't be to have them work as a sub, just as a bass driver and get you cleanly from the mid crossover down to where you want the real sub to take over. Obviously a side mounted sub would still go down to 40Hz without any issue. Providing you have power and EQ.

The other option would be some tang band bass drivers below the 12MU. A couple of models exist with varying parameters and suitability.

W3-2108 is the smallest of the bunch. Very low sensitivity but will work in small cabinets. It'll go decently low for a driver of the size and has good xmax too. If money was no object I'd look at 4 of them in a series/parallel config for an end 4 ohm load.

If you can work with the size of the W4-2089 then this would be a very good option. Basically the W30-2108 but with more of everything. Again multiple pairs to get sensitivity up.

Finally the W46-1316N.

All would work in a slim tower.

Use one (4 ohm load), use two (in series for 8 ohm load), use four (series/parallel for 4 ohm load). Use them with passive radiators or sealed. Just model them with how much cabinet volume you've got available to see what you'll need.

Obviously these aren't meant to give you sub bass, just go deep/loud enough to mate with the real sub. For that you'll need at least 100Hz extension.

That will only work if he uses 16 of those, wich will make a huge box. Their sensivity is too low (77dB for the 3", 79 for the 4") to meet up with the top.

Then it's better to use one 10 or 12" with the righ sensivity in an appropriate box. It will take less space.

And you can use one driver to cover the sub and woofer part, but they need to be close to the midwoofer and tweeter (one box) and at least in stereo for this application. That is what i do with my waw with an FR driver and a Scanspeak 10" woofer, with an 1st order CR at 250Hz. Not one mono subwoofer somewhere in the corner...
 

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