How well would this dual voice coil sub work in a 1 CU FT sealed box driven by an Adcom GFA 545II with one channel per voice coil?
https://www.parts-express.com/Dayto...ce-Series-HO-DVC-Subwoofer-295-463?quantity=1
An Adcom GFA 535II will drive a pair of Klipsch bookshelf speakers.
A Kicker KX2 active crossover is used for the high pass and low pass.
https://www.parts-express.com/Dayto...ce-Series-HO-DVC-Subwoofer-295-463?quantity=1
An Adcom GFA 535II will drive a pair of Klipsch bookshelf speakers.
A Kicker KX2 active crossover is used for the high pass and low pass.
Take a look at Dayton Audio's DSP-LF subwoofer equaliser.
I use one to equalise a pair of repurposed ML Aeon low frrequency units.
The iWoofer app gives you real time control. (it works in demo mode if you want to try it on your phone)
I use one to equalise a pair of repurposed ML Aeon low frrequency units.
The iWoofer app gives you real time control. (it works in demo mode if you want to try it on your phone)
You want 1 amp channel per subwoofer coil? It might work, but I wouldn't do it. That's what dual voice coils are meant for. It might cause issues. It might not.
Why not use the HE-22 version instead? Wire the coils in series to make it 4 ohm, then bridge the amplifier.
For crossover, get a miniDSP unit, program it at home, set it up where you will use it?
This uses a wired Windows app:
https://www.thomannmusic.com/the_t.racks_dsp_4x4_mini.htm
I use one for my mid and tweeters.. Also has a demo mode.
A wired app is a no-go as well as only IT can install approved software on the work PCs.
I figured one coil per amp channel as that's the only way I can do it and I don't know if the Adcom can be bridged given it does not have a switch on the amp to do it and I'd need a circuit to convert an unbalanced stereo signal into a balanced mono signal.
I figured one coil per amp channel as that's the only way I can do it and I don't know if the Adcom can be bridged given it does not have a switch on the amp to do it and I'd need a circuit to convert an unbalanced stereo signal into a balanced mono signal.
What you are proposing is not the only way. If the amp channels aren't perfectly synchronized, the two voice coils will be fighting each other. If that was my only choice, I wouldn't do it. I'd buy a cheap plate amp.
You do not need a switch to bridge an amp.
You do not need a switch to bridge an amp.
I know that, but most amps that it is ok to bridge usually have a switch on them that performs what is necessary to bridge the amp.
That said to bridge the Adcom, I'd need an 8 ohm sub given minimum impedance the Adcom can drive is 4 ohms.
I might get a BASH 500 watt amp if the Adcom cannot be made to work.
Also the Adcom has unbalanced inputs so to bridge I'd need a dual op-amp wired as non-inverting and inverting that will combine the stereo to mono.
That said to bridge the Adcom, I'd need an 8 ohm sub given minimum impedance the Adcom can drive is 4 ohms.
I might get a BASH 500 watt amp if the Adcom cannot be made to work.
Also the Adcom has unbalanced inputs so to bridge I'd need a dual op-amp wired as non-inverting and inverting that will combine the stereo to mono.
You're making this more difficult than it is.
I already suggested subwoofer that has two 2 ohm voice coils. Wire them in series and you have 4 ohms.
That won't work with the Adcom. Minimum impedance per channel is 4 ohms so I cannot use a 4 ohm sub if I bridged the amp.
The Adcom should work OK with the DVC 4 ohm RSS265HO-44, and it will work in a 1 cubic foot box, though the bass will start to roll off ~ 45Hz at 12dB per octave.
You could use EQ if you want the <45Hz to happen.
With your Kicker KX2 you could set the HP down low (40-50Hz) and kind of "fake it", it's 18dB per octave HP would give a stepped "boom" down low.
That said, since plenty of bass is not mono, the two voice coils will not see the same waveform, and the difference will largely turn to heat rather than sound output.
https://www.diyaudio.com/community/threads/is-there-in-bass-no-stereo.412211/page-3#post-7679141
Simple solution to that problem is to mono the sub input:
https://www.ranecommercial.com/kb_article.php?article=2106
RCA connectors can of course be substituted for the TRS, and the resistors can be heat shrunk or taped in the cord set rather than put in a box.
You can get better room response (and stereo..) with a pair of subs.
A pair of less expensive woofers each with around 7mm excursion could outperform the single 13.25mm excursion RSS265HO-44 sub.
Art
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I'm still on the fence about using the adcom.
Would be another larger amp at work versus a plate amp.
I can indeed use resistors to make the low pass output of the crossover mono.
Am limited to a single sub unfortunately.
With the 500 watt BASH amp (won't ever need 500 watts but their 300 watt is discontinued)
There's a 20Hz high pass filter I have to disable and there's a 300 or 350Hz low pass in the amp section that also needs to be disabled.
When I used one for four subs at home the subs didn't integrate well at all until I disabled those two filters. Then the subs disappeared.
Are there any small mono subwoofer amps that are flat to 20Hz and can do a minimum of 100 watts?
Also if I'm going to use a plate amp or mono sub amp, which sub would be best in the 1 CU FT box?
Would be another larger amp at work versus a plate amp.
I can indeed use resistors to make the low pass output of the crossover mono.
Am limited to a single sub unfortunately.
With the 500 watt BASH amp (won't ever need 500 watts but their 300 watt is discontinued)
There's a 20Hz high pass filter I have to disable and there's a 300 or 350Hz low pass in the amp section that also needs to be disabled.
When I used one for four subs at home the subs didn't integrate well at all until I disabled those two filters. Then the subs disappeared.
Are there any small mono subwoofer amps that are flat to 20Hz and can do a minimum of 100 watts?
Also if I'm going to use a plate amp or mono sub amp, which sub would be best in the 1 CU FT box?
I'm using the Fossi Audio V3, ~160watts per channel @4 ohms, 85@8 ohms for my studio & home stereo subs.
Depends on what frequency range is most important to you.
While looking up the V3, I saw the V3 mono
https://fosiaudio.com/pages/monoblock-power-amplifier-v3-mono
Read a review on it which listed measurements and the amp looks very promising.
It has an XLR input which is nice as that would allow me to use either the + or - so I can reverse the phase to integrate with the mains if need be.
Not having the plate amp in the box will give a little more volume for the driver.
What I might do is just get that amp when its available and try it with the Sony driver. I can sum the output of the crossover to mono inside the crossover itself.
The range most important is from 70Hz-20Hz as I plan on setting the crossover for that frequency.
The current sub I think starts to roll off some about 40Hz and without the plate amp in the box (has a plastic cover over all the electronics so does take up some volume) I should have more of the 1 CU FT volume available for the sub and the Sony might just go lower and be good.
https://fosiaudio.com/pages/monoblock-power-amplifier-v3-mono
Read a review on it which listed measurements and the amp looks very promising.
It has an XLR input which is nice as that would allow me to use either the + or - so I can reverse the phase to integrate with the mains if need be.
Not having the plate amp in the box will give a little more volume for the driver.
What I might do is just get that amp when its available and try it with the Sony driver. I can sum the output of the crossover to mono inside the crossover itself.
The range most important is from 70Hz-20Hz as I plan on setting the crossover for that frequency.
The current sub I think starts to roll off some about 40Hz and without the plate amp in the box (has a plastic cover over all the electronics so does take up some volume) I should have more of the 1 CU FT volume available for the sub and the Sony might just go lower and be good.
I may get this amp as it has variable phase and the variable EQ may help the driver below 40Hz.
https://www.amazon.com/Dayton-Audio...er/dp/B09VB642ZL/ref=sr_1_3?crid=63WOTB9KQQUX
I would then cut a piece of wood to cover the hole from where the plate amp was and install these jacks.
https://www.amazon.com/Dayton-Audio...na/dp/B0002KR3X0/ref=sr_1_4?crid=PMBZUH2HSMPA
EDIT:
Should be here Friday so I'll take the sub home and make the mods to the cabinet then maybe test it as well.
Would be nice if subwoofer amps had a two way active crossover instead of just an RCA passthrough as I would then not need the Kicker crossover.
That said I will try it without the Kicker crossover first using just the crossover on the sub amp and see how it sounds when the crossover is set to the -3dB point of the Klipsch speakers.
I may do that Thursday when I connect the Klipsch speakers and use the plate amp in the sub so I can go ahead and know if the Kicker is needed.
https://www.amazon.com/Dayton-Audio...er/dp/B09VB642ZL/ref=sr_1_3?crid=63WOTB9KQQUX
I would then cut a piece of wood to cover the hole from where the plate amp was and install these jacks.
https://www.amazon.com/Dayton-Audio...na/dp/B0002KR3X0/ref=sr_1_4?crid=PMBZUH2HSMPA
EDIT:
Should be here Friday so I'll take the sub home and make the mods to the cabinet then maybe test it as well.
Would be nice if subwoofer amps had a two way active crossover instead of just an RCA passthrough as I would then not need the Kicker crossover.
That said I will try it without the Kicker crossover first using just the crossover on the sub amp and see how it sounds when the crossover is set to the -3dB point of the Klipsch speakers.
I may do that Thursday when I connect the Klipsch speakers and use the plate amp in the sub so I can go ahead and know if the Kicker is needed.
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Sounds more complicated than needs be. Why not just do it passively using a couple of large but cheap iron cored inductors?
It's then a simple 2.5Way
No high pass needed but you could do it the way the Kairos by Jeff Bagby was designed too
It's then a simple 2.5Way
No high pass needed but you could do it the way the Kairos by Jeff Bagby was designed too
That does sound like a good idea and at one point early on in using passive subs I did use inductors which didn't work so good and I found an active crossover to be much better.
Oh trust me if I could do it that simple and have it sound right, I'd be saving about $150
Oh trust me if I could do it that simple and have it sound right, I'd be saving about $150
I could, however that would mean having both my 545II and my 535II at work.
The plan is to fix the 535II and use it in place of the 545II at work given the 535II is a little smaller.
The plan is to fix the 535II and use it in place of the 545II at work given the 535II is a little smaller.
The box has a divider/brace in it.
3" from inside rear of cabinet
6 1/2" high from inside bottom of cabinet
1/2" thick
Do I need to leave it there or remove it?
The subwoofer amp and terminals will be here today so I'll cut a piece of wood slightly larger than the plate amp is, mount the terminals in it then drill holes for the screws.
I'll attach the wood to the box Monday using screws and some RTV to ensure a perfect seal.
3" from inside rear of cabinet
6 1/2" high from inside bottom of cabinet
1/2" thick
Do I need to leave it there or remove it?
The subwoofer amp and terminals will be here today so I'll cut a piece of wood slightly larger than the plate amp is, mount the terminals in it then drill holes for the screws.
I'll attach the wood to the box Monday using screws and some RTV to ensure a perfect seal.