So I just bought a new TV stand with room for all my gear below. The problem is that there are glass doors on the front of the stand and my gear is not able to breath. I have already drilled 10, 2" holes along the back top part of the stand, but I'm looking for any idea's on how I can add a small fan to the back of the stand to suck the hot air out? Also, where might I buy a fan from?
-This looks like a great site, and yes I tried the search.
Cheers!
-Ryan
-This looks like a great site, and yes I tried the search.
Cheers!
-Ryan
Member
Joined 2002
computer fans work awsome i like cpu ones because there small and quiet and power supply fans work too but there kinda biger.. depending on teh size of psu..
J'
J'
Member
Joined 2002
Yu know them small ac adapters that you can buy for your disc man and ect appliances those work perfectly like a varable one or a 9v one
j'
j'
Fans
Fan control (and motion control) is a popular topic at Analog Devices, (amongst others) since they actually consume a bit of energy themselves, and the cost of controlling the speed to suit operating conditions is de minimis. Of course, Analog would like you to implement a solution which requires a college math degree. You could probably rig a sensor like the LM34Z to provide drive to an iinexpensive PWM chip like the LM3524, or a single-chip amplifier like an LM1875. Thus the fan's RPm, and hopefully thereby the volume of air, would be a function of temperature. The LM3524 would be a bit taxed in this situation, I think it's max current capacity is 200ma so you would need to drive the gates of a HexFET totem pole.
I am using the carcase of a computer power supply to run my laptop -- replaced the switcher with a linear supply and pass element. I kept the fan, and it's a darn good thing as the laptop, an ancient Presario, will draw 80 watts.
Fan control (and motion control) is a popular topic at Analog Devices, (amongst others) since they actually consume a bit of energy themselves, and the cost of controlling the speed to suit operating conditions is de minimis. Of course, Analog would like you to implement a solution which requires a college math degree. You could probably rig a sensor like the LM34Z to provide drive to an iinexpensive PWM chip like the LM3524, or a single-chip amplifier like an LM1875. Thus the fan's RPm, and hopefully thereby the volume of air, would be a function of temperature. The LM3524 would be a bit taxed in this situation, I think it's max current capacity is 200ma so you would need to drive the gates of a HexFET totem pole.
I am using the carcase of a computer power supply to run my laptop -- replaced the switcher with a linear supply and pass element. I kept the fan, and it's a darn good thing as the laptop, an ancient Presario, will draw 80 watts.
Suck the hot air out
One word of advice -
If you blow cold air in, the fan will last longer.
Not so big a deal in your application, but
probably a good thing to think about.
One word of advice -
If you blow cold air in, the fan will last longer.
Not so big a deal in your application, but
probably a good thing to think about.
Guys, thanks for the advice. I checked the cabnet temp and it is about 86 deg with a room temp of 78. So, I don't think I'm going to bother with the fan.
-Ryan
-Ryan
Member
Joined 2002
your amplifier will run better at a cooler temp you know and probably last a hell of a lot longer too you know..
just thought that i would mention that..
just thought that i would mention that..
Fan controller
No necessity for a lot of work with PWM for fan control as I had suggested earlier. The AD22105 is available from Analog via Newark Electronics for $2.74 and uses ONE RESISTOR to adjust the setpoint. (You use the output to drive a transistor.) It also has a 4 degree celsius hysterisis so that the fan won't oscillate off and on. Here's a link to the PDF: http://www.analog.com/productSelection/pdf/ad22105.pdf
No necessity for a lot of work with PWM for fan control as I had suggested earlier. The AD22105 is available from Analog via Newark Electronics for $2.74 and uses ONE RESISTOR to adjust the setpoint. (You use the output to drive a transistor.) It also has a 4 degree celsius hysterisis so that the fan won't oscillate off and on. Here's a link to the PDF: http://www.analog.com/productSelection/pdf/ad22105.pdf
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