Hello everyone,
I'm looking to re-cable my STAX earspeakers.
I'm looking to get the STAX Pro Bias 5 Pin Male Plug either from Allied electronics/Moon Audio.
However, I been told that it would be better to machine a plug out of Delrin with the gold connectors salvaged from a Neutrik 5 Pin XLR connector.
Which would be a wiser choice?
I'm leaning to the DIY as I can have more artistic control for the outlook of the plug
If I go for the DIY route using Delrin and salvaging those gold pins, anyone knows where I can get the CAD data for the coordinates for the Pro Bias?
Thanks you and have a nice day!
I'm looking to re-cable my STAX earspeakers.
I'm looking to get the STAX Pro Bias 5 Pin Male Plug either from Allied electronics/Moon Audio.
However, I been told that it would be better to machine a plug out of Delrin with the gold connectors salvaged from a Neutrik 5 Pin XLR connector.
Which would be a wiser choice?
I'm leaning to the DIY as I can have more artistic control for the outlook of the plug
If I go for the DIY route using Delrin and salvaging those gold pins, anyone knows where I can get the CAD data for the coordinates for the Pro Bias?
Thanks you and have a nice day!
I had a look at the Moon plug at 15 bucks not up to the standard of my Stax equipment .
The problem with the genuine article when it comes to Stax is----expensive . Have look at headamp.com , yes that's a problem with Stax "earspeakers " they break at the plug end.
Have a read of
Stax plug - Do It Yourself - www.Head-Case.org
its old but its got Kevin Gilmore ( well known audio designer in headphone amplifier and the also well known Icelander - Spritzer ) for ideas.
I like your DIY option but sorry don't use CAD.
The problem with the genuine article when it comes to Stax is----expensive . Have look at headamp.com , yes that's a problem with Stax "earspeakers " they break at the plug end.
Have a read of
Stax plug - Do It Yourself - www.Head-Case.org
its old but its got Kevin Gilmore ( well known audio designer in headphone amplifier and the also well known Icelander - Spritzer ) for ideas.
I like your DIY option but sorry don't use CAD.
There was a guy on head-fi saying he made his own 5 pin plug-
For $8 I just made my own plug using 11 gauge solid copper wire cut into 1.5" pins (I used tin snips to cut the pins
but this bent the pins so I had to straighten them with 2 pliers so if I ever do it again I'd use a hack saw to cut them instead).
And I used 2 part epoxy to make the plug.
As far as I remember if you remove one pin from the 6 pin plug it can be used as a 5 pin plug---- a 5 pin plug ( Pro ) will fit in a non Pro ( normal ) bias socket .
The most important thing is to be sure to put the pins in the right holes in the socket before you drip the epoxy on the back of the pins
and make sure you don't get any epoxy on the socket or the amplifier, and also mix the epoxy for a few minutes b.c otherwise it wont harden (which I found out the hard way and it was quite messy having to remove the epoxy and start over again).
I also used shrink tubing over where I soldered the pins to the wires
and black electrical tape which I wrapped around the plug after the epoxy had hardened.
Anyway it works and looks really good and saved me $15 too.
I guess if I wasn't cheap I'd just spend the extra $15 and just buy the plug (that's the easiest way to do it).
For $8 I just made my own plug using 11 gauge solid copper wire cut into 1.5" pins (I used tin snips to cut the pins
but this bent the pins so I had to straighten them with 2 pliers so if I ever do it again I'd use a hack saw to cut them instead).
And I used 2 part epoxy to make the plug.
As far as I remember if you remove one pin from the 6 pin plug it can be used as a 5 pin plug---- a 5 pin plug ( Pro ) will fit in a non Pro ( normal ) bias socket .
The most important thing is to be sure to put the pins in the right holes in the socket before you drip the epoxy on the back of the pins
and make sure you don't get any epoxy on the socket or the amplifier, and also mix the epoxy for a few minutes b.c otherwise it wont harden (which I found out the hard way and it was quite messy having to remove the epoxy and start over again).
I also used shrink tubing over where I soldered the pins to the wires
and black electrical tape which I wrapped around the plug after the epoxy had hardened.
Anyway it works and looks really good and saved me $15 too.
I guess if I wasn't cheap I'd just spend the extra $15 and just buy the plug (that's the easiest way to do it).
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I measured the male connector of my SR-40 headset. The pins vary a bit from 0.0920 to 0.0945”. Measuring across two pins on center yields 0.5250, So the bolt circle will vary by the amount of the pin thickness. 0.5250-0.092 gives a bolt circle of 0.433. I hope this helps