I'm looking at purchasing one of these three speakers.
https://www.amazon.com/Klipsch-Book.../dp/B0849M5JT5/ref=sr_1_19?crid=33PACVMQM6YQ8
https://www.amazon.com/Klipsch-R-51.../dp/B07GDSL3NJ/ref=sr_1_10?crid=33PACVMQM6YQ8
https://www.amazon.com/Klipsch-R-15.../dp/B00LMF41IY/ref=sr_1_21?crid=33PACVMQM6YQ8
Which speaker would be the best choice?
I will be using them with a powered sub.
Also I am thinking about mounting them on a wall using some sort of mount that would allow me to position them properly. What kind of mount would I need?
https://www.amazon.com/Klipsch-Book.../dp/B0849M5JT5/ref=sr_1_19?crid=33PACVMQM6YQ8
https://www.amazon.com/Klipsch-R-51.../dp/B07GDSL3NJ/ref=sr_1_10?crid=33PACVMQM6YQ8
https://www.amazon.com/Klipsch-R-15.../dp/B00LMF41IY/ref=sr_1_21?crid=33PACVMQM6YQ8
Which speaker would be the best choice?
I will be using them with a powered sub.
Also I am thinking about mounting them on a wall using some sort of mount that would allow me to position them properly. What kind of mount would I need?
Stereophile recommends these: Audioengine A2+ for $269/pair.
Often speakers come with integral mounting fixtures already installed on their backs.
Otherwise you can hang them like a picture, but with felt pads between them and the wall.
Often speakers come with integral mounting fixtures already installed on their backs.
Otherwise you can hang them like a picture, but with felt pads between them and the wall.
I agree that those Klupsh are not their best effort and would rather buy Audio engines which I also heard. BUT , there is a million of other speakers which you may like more than either. If in doubt , contact your gay interior designer and he will steer you into right direction
I've heard the Klipsch Synergy Black Label B-100 speakers and they sound ok to me so I figured the larger Klipsch would sound similar if not better.
Also the Klipsch do have a keyhole mount, but that will not allow me to position them properly on the wall as I will be unable to angle them towards my ears.
I don't have much to spend so I'd need something in the $100-200 range.
Also the Klipsch do have a keyhole mount, but that will not allow me to position them properly on the wall as I will be unable to angle them towards my ears.
I don't have much to spend so I'd need something in the $100-200 range.
For each speaker, you could use one spacer wood block on the outer side to angle the speaker inward.
Or mount a wall shelf in the right place and just set the speaker on it.
Or mount a wall shelf in the right place and just set the speaker on it.
I have their center channel from that series and I think it's built and performs fine for the money.
$100 is a pair of tickets to a movies with popcorn , pop and a beer afterwards .
$100 is a pair of tickets to a movies with popcorn , pop and a beer afterwards .
Haven't checked the swap meet yet.
Here's the space I have to work with.
Larger 8" 3 way DIY speakers were under where the two monitors are on each side.
I brought my Klipsch from work for the weekend to see how they will sound as that will determine if I get larger Klipsch or not.
The issue is I have no room to put speakers other than where the Klipsch are unless I build a pair of 8" two way speakers.
I have a small pair of Automatic Radio speakers I had modded with a new crossover and a Foster tweeter that other than simply not going loud enough (limited to the 20W woofer rating) are decent sounding and I could use the crossover and the tweeters from those then put them in a proper box with an 8" woofer.
The boxes could then sit under the monitors again.
Here's the space I have to work with.
Larger 8" 3 way DIY speakers were under where the two monitors are on each side.
I brought my Klipsch from work for the weekend to see how they will sound as that will determine if I get larger Klipsch or not.
The issue is I have no room to put speakers other than where the Klipsch are unless I build a pair of 8" two way speakers.
I have a small pair of Automatic Radio speakers I had modded with a new crossover and a Foster tweeter that other than simply not going loud enough (limited to the 20W woofer rating) are decent sounding and I could use the crossover and the tweeters from those then put them in a proper box with an 8" woofer.
The boxes could then sit under the monitors again.
Oh!! LCR monitors !!! 😎The boxes could then sit under the monitors again.
Gotta love the loop antenna. I tried a pair of Audio engines for my desktop years ago, and sent them right back. Ended up with a pair of round shaped JBL desk speakers and called it good. I can't begin to imagine the multitude of choices in this price range. Most of them crap.
Thanks.
I am leaning more towards a pair of decent cabinets and an 8" woofer with the Foster tweeters depending on if I can find a decent cabinet for a reasonable cost.
The antenna is for a modulation monitor that I plug into a more modern guitar amp so I can hear the audio from my part 15 AM transmitter.
That is one reason I cannot raise the speakers to ear height where they are as I have no other reasonable place to put that where I can easily reach its volume control.
To keep from taking the thread off topic I can PM you more about the transmitter if you'd like.
I am leaning more towards a pair of decent cabinets and an 8" woofer with the Foster tweeters depending on if I can find a decent cabinet for a reasonable cost.
The antenna is for a modulation monitor that I plug into a more modern guitar amp so I can hear the audio from my part 15 AM transmitter.
That is one reason I cannot raise the speakers to ear height where they are as I have no other reasonable place to put that where I can easily reach its volume control.
To keep from taking the thread off topic I can PM you more about the transmitter if you'd like.
If I were to use cabinets and an 8" woofer, would this be a good choice given I'll have a sub crossed over about 70-80Hz?
https://www.parts-express.com/Eminence-Alpha-8A-8-PA-Driver-290-401?quantity=1
https://www.parts-express.com/Eminence-Alpha-8A-8-PA-Driver-290-401?quantity=1
Just as I expected. A mountain of drivers out there too. A former friend of mine and I were building speakers way back when. He had a mechanical engineering degree and a lot of head knowledge that was beyond me. So I built cabinets because that was what I was good at. I remember asking him how we might go about choosing the drivers. He answer was that you start out with certain parameters for a chosen driver and pick one out of the pile. Set your requirements for a driver first (cast basket, magnet type, efficiency, power handling, etc.) Also determine what enclosure will suit your needs. In your case, I would branch out a little and consider some less conventional enclosure for taking up less desk space, including height. Some kind of tube enclosure with a bend for example. Your not expecting great results with the budget that you have in mind but can still beat the retail experience by a lot. I even see premade cabinets that are folded multiple times inside and so do not take up as much space. This is all speculative, so define more closely what you can do. I do like the 8" drivers for some reason, yet am surprised at what smaller drivers can accomplish, especially with a sub.
I did a calculation for the Eminence driver using https://www.bcae1.com/spboxnew2.htm and it said that Eminence was better for ported enclosures so I cannot use it for this speaker.
In this instance the speakers if I use an 8" driver will go in place of the stands the monitors sit on. So space really isn't an issue.
The original 8" 3 way cabinets that were there are:
11 3/4" W
19 1/2" H
7 1/2" D
1/2" thick wood
Which gives me
.748 cu ft
This one would work if I used a 1 cu ft cabinet, however I'd have to pad the tweeter way down and it's only rated at 80 watts RMS.
https://www.parts-express.com/HiVi-M8N-8-Aluminum-Magnesium-Woofer-297-446?quantity=1
Would this one work in a 1 cu ft cabinet and have a F3 of around 50-60Hz?
https://www.parts-express.com/FaitalPRO-8FE300-8-Professional-Midbass-8-Ohm-294-1160?quantity=1
Here's another speaker.
https://www.parts-express.com/PRV-A...dymium-Speaker-Pair-4-Ohm-294-3145?quantity=1
Not sure how well it would work in a 1 cu ft cabinet, but I wouldn't have to drop the tweeter level any and I'd also be able to use the 4 ohm low pass crossover I already have.
Here's another.
https://www.parts-express.com/Tymph...-Paper-Cone-Woofer-8-Ohms-299-2265?quantity=1
Should I take a chance on it given it's low cost or will it not play nice with the 4kHz crossover frequency?
How well would these work ina 1 cu ft cabinet?
https://www.parts-express.com/LaVoce-WAF082.00-8-Woofer-8-Ohm-293-714?quantity=1
https://www.parts-express.com/Celes...nal-Midrange-Driver-8-Ohm-294-1966?quantity=1
In this instance the speakers if I use an 8" driver will go in place of the stands the monitors sit on. So space really isn't an issue.
The original 8" 3 way cabinets that were there are:
11 3/4" W
19 1/2" H
7 1/2" D
1/2" thick wood
Which gives me
.748 cu ft
This one would work if I used a 1 cu ft cabinet, however I'd have to pad the tweeter way down and it's only rated at 80 watts RMS.
https://www.parts-express.com/HiVi-M8N-8-Aluminum-Magnesium-Woofer-297-446?quantity=1
Would this one work in a 1 cu ft cabinet and have a F3 of around 50-60Hz?
https://www.parts-express.com/FaitalPRO-8FE300-8-Professional-Midbass-8-Ohm-294-1160?quantity=1
Here's another speaker.
https://www.parts-express.com/PRV-A...dymium-Speaker-Pair-4-Ohm-294-3145?quantity=1
Not sure how well it would work in a 1 cu ft cabinet, but I wouldn't have to drop the tweeter level any and I'd also be able to use the 4 ohm low pass crossover I already have.
Here's another.
https://www.parts-express.com/Tymph...-Paper-Cone-Woofer-8-Ohms-299-2265?quantity=1
Should I take a chance on it given it's low cost or will it not play nice with the 4kHz crossover frequency?
How well would these work ina 1 cu ft cabinet?
https://www.parts-express.com/LaVoce-WAF082.00-8-Woofer-8-Ohm-293-714?quantity=1
https://www.parts-express.com/Celes...nal-Midrange-Driver-8-Ohm-294-1966?quantity=1
When I was wanting to build a crossover for a little project of mine, Parts Express helped out along the way. I am pretty sure that they would do the same for speaker/cabinet project too. In fact, you could so far as to look into one of their many kits and see if something doesn't ring a bell.
I've seen their kits, however they were either not exactly what I wanted or were way more than I can spend at the moment.
I've got two 2' X 2' 1/2" thick pieces of plywood so I might buy those closeout drivers and see how they sound open baffle.
That will give me a chance to play around with the tweeter and crossover frequency some.
I'd likely put the 8" closer to the middle and the tweeter right above the 8.
If the tweeter can be front mounted I'll do the woofer the same.
That will give me a chance to play around with the tweeter and crossover frequency some.
I'd likely put the 8" closer to the middle and the tweeter right above the 8.
If the tweeter can be front mounted I'll do the woofer the same.
Well, at this point, if your going to experiment it is good to start and get some experience behind you. There are cases where I think that an open baffle design is superb. I do know that there are certain T/S [parameters that should be considered for that application. It's just that there are so many different design applications for drivers to be used for particular designs. Ask Parts express about these things so that they can offer the best choice to start with. It isn't so much just about the diameter and magnet. The other specs come into play as well. Getting your ducks in a row before the build will go a long way in a satisfactory outcome.
It's strictly so that I can hear the drivers on an actual baffle.
Most likely will go with a box if I find the drivers are acceptable.
I'm basically checking how they sound in the midrange so that I know where the crossover should be.
That said I do have a 2 or 3 way pro audio crossover I currently use in the system as a 2 way crossover.
I could fix my Adcom 535II and use that for the tweeters with the 545II for the 8" drivers and the Carver TFM-25 for the sub.
Would completely eliminate the crossover and allow me to tweak the system to my liking.
From the website.
"The damped pulp paper cone and double roll surround deliver smooth response with almost no break-up under 2,500 Hz."
So it looks like I need to keep the crossover at 2.5kHz or below.
This is where going full active is beneficial. I can tweak the crossover until the speakers sound proper to my ears.
Unfortunately it may be awhile until I fix the 535II so I may find another lower power amp for the tweeter for now.
Most likely will go with a box if I find the drivers are acceptable.
I'm basically checking how they sound in the midrange so that I know where the crossover should be.
That said I do have a 2 or 3 way pro audio crossover I currently use in the system as a 2 way crossover.
I could fix my Adcom 535II and use that for the tweeters with the 545II for the 8" drivers and the Carver TFM-25 for the sub.
Would completely eliminate the crossover and allow me to tweak the system to my liking.
From the website.
"The damped pulp paper cone and double roll surround deliver smooth response with almost no break-up under 2,500 Hz."
So it looks like I need to keep the crossover at 2.5kHz or below.
This is where going full active is beneficial. I can tweak the crossover until the speakers sound proper to my ears.
Unfortunately it may be awhile until I fix the 535II so I may find another lower power amp for the tweeter for now.
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