Hi there, I just found this site its my first time posting here and any help would be greatly appreciated! We have a soundcraft gb2 that we got 2nd hand and have been using it for a while not successfully until now. Basically we are running monitors from aux1 and 2 from a stage box. For some reason aux 1 has just started making a horrible noise like crackling and popping but not a hum. I plugged straight from desk and checked and sure enough it seems to be from the desk. But then we just moved to a different aux and it was working fine but now after a couple of weeks the second aux is now making the noise! Now im running that monitor from the matrix. Sorry for the longwinded msg but my head is melted as to why this would happen. Could it be a power issue? We are also using a female to jack cable from stage box to monitor which isnt balanced. Thanks. Anton
Soundcraft gb aux help!
- Thread starter Anton65
- Start date
All right. I don't know the gb2 (but have done a lot of Soundcraft consoles).
From the pictures I'd say that aux 1 & 3 are on one PC board (although with soundcraft it could well be that the entire output block was a single unit, with all the subgroup mix amps, all the aux mix amps and all the balanced drive amps {ooh, naughty. Not properly balanced at all} on one board). From the symptoms, the problem is probably here, and opening the mixer essential.
The timing suggests that a plug is falling out, little by little. Probably a ribbon connector, with all the aux mix busses going through it. I'm assuming now that you've checked that the problems the same from several different inputs. It might be worth physically thumping the outside of the box with an amp on the aux that's giving the problem and a low-level signal running through (incidentally, I assume you moved onto aux 3 from 1, and that 2 never gave the problem. Did you try 4) to see if there's mechanical correlation.
How did you test the desk outputs – with a monitor? It would be very embarrassing to strip down the console to discover the problem had been badly analysed and was in the monitor amp, or a short in the snake (unlikely from your description but worth checking, doing multiple swaps until absolutely certain). It's just possible one of your monitor amps (or active monitors) has a transient problem that's frying output chips, but unlikely.
Matrix outs? The User guide I've found has four subgroups and a stereo main; nothing I'd classify as a matrix…
From the timing
From the pictures I'd say that aux 1 & 3 are on one PC board (although with soundcraft it could well be that the entire output block was a single unit, with all the subgroup mix amps, all the aux mix amps and all the balanced drive amps {ooh, naughty. Not properly balanced at all} on one board). From the symptoms, the problem is probably here, and opening the mixer essential.
The timing suggests that a plug is falling out, little by little. Probably a ribbon connector, with all the aux mix busses going through it. I'm assuming now that you've checked that the problems the same from several different inputs. It might be worth physically thumping the outside of the box with an amp on the aux that's giving the problem and a low-level signal running through (incidentally, I assume you moved onto aux 3 from 1, and that 2 never gave the problem. Did you try 4) to see if there's mechanical correlation.
How did you test the desk outputs – with a monitor? It would be very embarrassing to strip down the console to discover the problem had been badly analysed and was in the monitor amp, or a short in the snake (unlikely from your description but worth checking, doing multiple swaps until absolutely certain). It's just possible one of your monitor amps (or active monitors) has a transient problem that's frying output chips, but unlikely.
Matrix outs? The User guide I've found has four subgroups and a stereo main; nothing I'd classify as a matrix…
From the timing
Hey man thanks for reply, yes the desk has 2 matrix outputs also! But basically Aux 1 went and now 2 has gone. 3,4,5 and 6 work. Yes that makes sense what you are saying but I do wonder if the monitor is causing the problem because I don't see how both auxes could have gone so quickly. I tried diagnosing auxes by going through them with a monitor from desk and aux1 definetly isn't working. Aux2 worked but then during practice it went. How could i tell if monitor is causing this? Before i open up desk? Thanks by the way
Drive the monitor from different outputs, if it works with all except Aux1/2 then you know it's not a Monitor problem.
Same with the snake, go through it testing line by line, obviously coming from an already proven good output.
If in doubt, use another spare cable.
If you confirm problem is definitely related to outputs Aux 1/2 first recheck using another proven good spare cable just to make sure.
In a nutshell, you are using the elements themselves for self testing, before opening the case.
Crackling and popping usually points to a "mechanical" problem, meaning connectors/wiring (internal or external)/sockets/wire ribbons/cracked solder (a.k.a.cold/dry solder).
Pinkmouse suggests having a real close look at the offending connectors, under good light and I suggest you use strong reading glasses, not because you *need* them but to see from real close.
Get a good clean 30W soldering iron (wipe its tip now and then with a damp cloth to keep it bright and shiny) and one by one, redo all solder connections you see around those output connectors, meaning you apply the iron tip, wait 2-3 seconds for solder to melt (if it takes 5-6 seconds or more your iron is too small/cold) and add a tiny bit of fresh solder, so you now have a bright shiny connection, not a dull irregular one.
Don't overdo it and avoid creating solder bridges, unwanted connections to neighbouring pads.
That's why I suggest good light and reading glasses.
Chrispenycate also distrusts ribbon connectors close by, pull and reseat them, sometimes touring partially unseats them.
Carefully move the wires on both ends, you may also redo connector solder pads.
Also: do you need to rock/push some switch to use/assign/enable those failing outputs?
A dirty/worn switch may cause those symptoms too.
OK, I don't want to confuse you with 1000 options, now you have your hands full for a couple days.
Do the testing and post results.
First suspect should be any insert point TRS jacks for effects loops, if they're a single TRS jack on that baord. They're supposed to self-connect when nothing is plugged in, but the swithch contacts inside (not the plug contacts) get dirty when the contacts are open if something IS plugged in. Solder up a TRS plug to connect the tip and rig, and plug it in...if the noise goes away you know the problem was the loop insert jack, and you can either leave the plug in or clean the jack contacts.
Test schedule is dependent on available gear. I generally have a nasty little analogue multimeter in my shoulder bag at all times, a miniature digital multimeter whenever the battery's not flat (it enjoys turning itself on without me asking it) a nasty little transistor amp thing with about a 11/2" speaker, and an XLR to minijack with balancing transformer in it, and a Swiss army penknife. 'Course, if I know I'm going out to mend things I've got a signal generator, soldering iron, a scope, a film can of often required components, spare fuses, an audio test CD… but it's surprising how much you can do with the basics.
Plug a powered speaker into a working output (say aux 3). Plug a signal source (preferably hands free, an mp3 player or CD; a microphone confuses matters. However, it does work.) into an input of the mixer, then turn up relevant volumes until you have a comfortable, not too loud, signal out of the speaker. Take a rubber hammer - not got a rubber hammer? - take an ordinary hammer and a piece of scrap wood, rest the wood against the side cheek and give it a firm tap with the hammer. This is not a racial slur, we're looking for bad contacts, dry joints, even cracked PC boards (although if we find those the time has possibly come to put the machine in the hands of an experienced service technician, even if it costs some.), the sort of mechanical damage touring consoles often develop. If there are no clicks, clunks or pops at this point we repeat the operation on one of the defective outputs. This will quite likely give a reaction, but unfortunately this is true whether it's dry joints on the output XLRs, badly seated connectors or just about any cracks or internal shorts. In fact, seeing that the thing has once worked, we'd be more surprised if this didn't give some reaction.
Looking at a picture I can't see how to open the thing; it seems to be a continuous face plate. Which is bad, because the next step is to open it up and give it a meticulous visual inspection. It's unlikely from the symptoms that it's a power supply problem (but that doesn't mean impossible) look for discoloured components, bulgy capacitors, badly seated connectors, solder joints with a mat finish rather than shiny (oh, and the 'blanket solder' comment was heat up all solder joints to connectors, even if they look OK; XLRs have a higher thermal capacity than resistors or ICs, and are more likely to make a poor joint with flow soldering). At least at a first stage do this with the power connector out; later you'll probably find me propping it open and going round the interior with probes, wiggling things, but I've been doing this for ages. Close it, plug it back in, and see if the problem's changed (either way).
Cyclecamper :- If the manual I've downloaded is right, no inserts on the auxes, only on the subgroups.
JM Fahey:- I do indeed distrust Soundcraft ribbon connectors; in older consoles (when they were a bit more modular than this one ) I've gone in and found bus connectors completely dropped out of sockets. I suspect employees of not having inserted them any too well originally, as they seemed pretty firm when well pressed home. However, I've never had pops; just silence when there was supposed to be signal. However, I will certify that one end can drop ou, making it not immediately obvious, and losing some functions but not others.
Plug a powered speaker into a working output (say aux 3). Plug a signal source (preferably hands free, an mp3 player or CD; a microphone confuses matters. However, it does work.) into an input of the mixer, then turn up relevant volumes until you have a comfortable, not too loud, signal out of the speaker. Take a rubber hammer - not got a rubber hammer? - take an ordinary hammer and a piece of scrap wood, rest the wood against the side cheek and give it a firm tap with the hammer. This is not a racial slur, we're looking for bad contacts, dry joints, even cracked PC boards (although if we find those the time has possibly come to put the machine in the hands of an experienced service technician, even if it costs some.), the sort of mechanical damage touring consoles often develop. If there are no clicks, clunks or pops at this point we repeat the operation on one of the defective outputs. This will quite likely give a reaction, but unfortunately this is true whether it's dry joints on the output XLRs, badly seated connectors or just about any cracks or internal shorts. In fact, seeing that the thing has once worked, we'd be more surprised if this didn't give some reaction.
Looking at a picture I can't see how to open the thing; it seems to be a continuous face plate. Which is bad, because the next step is to open it up and give it a meticulous visual inspection. It's unlikely from the symptoms that it's a power supply problem (but that doesn't mean impossible) look for discoloured components, bulgy capacitors, badly seated connectors, solder joints with a mat finish rather than shiny (oh, and the 'blanket solder' comment was heat up all solder joints to connectors, even if they look OK; XLRs have a higher thermal capacity than resistors or ICs, and are more likely to make a poor joint with flow soldering). At least at a first stage do this with the power connector out; later you'll probably find me propping it open and going round the interior with probes, wiggling things, but I've been doing this for ages. Close it, plug it back in, and see if the problem's changed (either way).
Cyclecamper :- If the manual I've downloaded is right, no inserts on the auxes, only on the subgroups.
JM Fahey:- I do indeed distrust Soundcraft ribbon connectors; in older consoles (when they were a bit more modular than this one ) I've gone in and found bus connectors completely dropped out of sockets. I suspect employees of not having inserted them any too well originally, as they seemed pretty firm when well pressed home. However, I've never had pops; just silence when there was supposed to be signal. However, I will certify that one end can drop ou, making it not immediately obvious, and losing some functions but not others.
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Hi guys, so I ended up bringing desk to a tech and it's been there for 4 weeks now and I just got off phone with the guy and he says its fixed except for aux1 apparently there's a chip problem. He said that aux1 is out of action and he will need about 10 more hours on it and said he recommend that I just don't use it. Aux 2 is fixed but I'm a bit annoyed. Apparently this guy is one of the best around and he hasn't charged me much as he missed the deadline I needed it buy and also has been really poor about ringing me back etc. but I'm stuck without Aux 1! Anyone have any experience with this?
Hi guys, it has been a while since my last visit here. Glad to see the forum still alive and kicking 
Sorry to bring up this old thread, but I have the same console and exactly the same problem, aux 1 output is producing a crackling/popping noise and aux2 exhibits the same behavior but in lower volume. I guess that this a common issue for the gb2s.
I have reflowed all the joints from the output card but the problem persists.
Did anybody find a solution to this ?
I could not find any schematics for the GB2, so I am pretty much stuck.
Any help would be deeply appreciated , thanks
Sorry to bring up this old thread, but I have the same console and exactly the same problem, aux 1 output is producing a crackling/popping noise and aux2 exhibits the same behavior but in lower volume. I guess that this a common issue for the gb2s.
I have reflowed all the joints from the output card but the problem persists.
Did anybody find a solution to this ?
I could not find any schematics for the GB2, so I am pretty much stuck.
Any help would be deeply appreciated , thanks
Hey, yeah this was a nightmare for me, but thankfully I got it fixed in the end. I brought mine to a local tech but he really didnt want to fix as it was a nightmare of a job for him as it just took hours to fix, and he fixed everything in the end as he gave me the desk back and it still had the same problem so he took the desk back and pretty much overhauled the whole thing for only 70 euro. I think most places would've charged a fortune to fix. I think the problem was that some damp may have gotten into desk, the last guy had it stored in his attic even though it was boxed and pretty much brand new. Unfortunately I'm not fully sure what the tech had to do exactly, but I think he had to change the ribbon cables. He gave out about the desk a lot as the parts weren't great and the company that bring the parts aren't great either. He said he didn't use the listed parts as the same problem would happen again. That's all I have sorry, as I said I'm not much of a tech, but desk is better than ever. Hope you get it sorted but you maybe be better of bringing it to someone, or sell.
Unfortunately the gb8 schematics were not very helpful, as there are a lot of differences between the gb2 and the gb8.
Anyways, I have noticed that the talkback button for Aux1-4 produces similar type of noise when pressed, so it could be a suspect.
I am glad to see through hole pcbs for the channel strips, but the lead free soldering quality is questionable. The pcbs are double sided and the solder did not flow properly on both sides, so this could be a suspect too.
Any other ideas/suggestions would be deeply appreciated.
Anyways, I have noticed that the talkback button for Aux1-4 produces similar type of noise when pressed, so it could be a suspect.
I am glad to see through hole pcbs for the channel strips, but the lead free soldering quality is questionable. The pcbs are double sided and the solder did not flow properly on both sides, so this could be a suspect too.
Any other ideas/suggestions would be deeply appreciated.
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