This is the old, solid red color amp line from the late 90's roughly.
Anyways, it seemed to be an OK amp despite running HOT at a 4 ohm bridged load when it was powering a 10" Alpine R and 12" L5, dunno if it's tiny fan was working or not to be honest. I had the switches correctly set for the 4 ohm load.
I stopped once to fiddle with the freq. settings and used a small screw driver to change the LPF and at the same time it occurred a very HARD fault that took out one of it's 40 amp fuses and I believe took out the main 80 amp on the 12v cable (happened some time ago).
Oddly enough, nothing burnt internally that's visible despite the fact it dimmed my car briefly before the 80 amp blew, and despite having dual power supplies, the other channel won't work even on the high current setting. The on-board diagnostic lights will eventually point to the "offset" light IIRC.
I can't connect a heavy 12v source to it as it'll pop the same 40 amp fuse again (2nd one remains OK).
Is there a way to test the board in this scenario? Amp is very spartan internally and interestingly enough used Nichicon FG caps throughout and would like to get it working again, though it seems all the outputs are discontinued.
Anyways, it seemed to be an OK amp despite running HOT at a 4 ohm bridged load when it was powering a 10" Alpine R and 12" L5, dunno if it's tiny fan was working or not to be honest. I had the switches correctly set for the 4 ohm load.
I stopped once to fiddle with the freq. settings and used a small screw driver to change the LPF and at the same time it occurred a very HARD fault that took out one of it's 40 amp fuses and I believe took out the main 80 amp on the 12v cable (happened some time ago).
Oddly enough, nothing burnt internally that's visible despite the fact it dimmed my car briefly before the 80 amp blew, and despite having dual power supplies, the other channel won't work even on the high current setting. The on-board diagnostic lights will eventually point to the "offset" light IIRC.
I can't connect a heavy 12v source to it as it'll pop the same 40 amp fuse again (2nd one remains OK).
Is there a way to test the board in this scenario? Amp is very spartan internally and interestingly enough used Nichicon FG caps throughout and would like to get it working again, though it seems all the outputs are discontinued.
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