Hi,
When you remove a drive unit to gain access to the internals of a cabinet, the screw holes will get slightly larger each time you remove the screws.
I seem to remember that one of Planet10's posts mentioned a cure for this. He injected some hardening substance into the screw holes so that the thread wouldn't get larger.
Does anyone have a similar "cure" ?
Thanks.
When you remove a drive unit to gain access to the internals of a cabinet, the screw holes will get slightly larger each time you remove the screws.
I seem to remember that one of Planet10's posts mentioned a cure for this. He injected some hardening substance into the screw holes so that the thread wouldn't get larger.
Does anyone have a similar "cure" ?
Thanks.
When replacing a screw, turn it backwards until it falls into the existing threads before tightening it. As long as you don't over-tighten it, the hole ought not to enlarge.
Until Dave sees this and posts, I do know there are a number of products on the market that will stabilize and harden soft or rotten wood. That's the direction to take.
Or use hurricane nuts and machine screws.
Or use hurricane nuts and machine screws.
The t-nuts/bolts or hurricane nuts/machine screws suggestions are good. However, if you want to do it the woodworkers method: Drill hole out with a larger bit that matches the diameter of a hardwood dowel. Use good quality wood glue, insert dowel (should fit firmly) into hole. Let dry. Use some means (chisel, router ...) to trim dowel flush with surrounding. Mark speaker mounting holes carefully, drill new holes. Mount speaker.
Stick a wooden tooth pick in the hole, snap it off flush, insert the screw. If it's a round tooth pick (instead of the flat type), cut it in half and put the fat end in the hole first, taper pointing out. (I have mounted objects to concrete walls also, using this method, with excellent results)
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Yet another way is to tape the back of the hole and fill it with glue. Let it sit until it starts to set then run your screws in.
I gonna tell you a secret and it's not to take anything away from Dave but he's not the one who builds the cabinets and openly admits that woodwork is not his forte. Some of the others who have posted in this thread are more of the woodworking types.
I gonna tell you a secret and it's not to take anything away from Dave but he's not the one who builds the cabinets and openly admits that woodwork is not his forte. Some of the others who have posted in this thread are more of the woodworking types.
Maxro is correct but if you plan to do it a few times consider hurricane nuts or threaded inserts.
They are better than T-nuts which will work fine but are tough to retrofit as you really do want a screw at the edge of the flange so they can't push out and that's a whole lot easier to do before the baffle is mounted.
I like prairieboys idea but it takes longer and you are still left with something that will eventually wear out.
Budgie's idea with the toothpick works if the hole has a bottom but can be tough to incorporate when the hole goes right through.
They are better than T-nuts which will work fine but are tough to retrofit as you really do want a screw at the edge of the flange so they can't push out and that's a whole lot easier to do before the baffle is mounted.
I like prairieboys idea but it takes longer and you are still left with something that will eventually wear out.
Budgie's idea with the toothpick works if the hole has a bottom but can be tough to incorporate when the hole goes right through.
Glue
I recollect reading that Low Viscosity (water like) Cyanoacrylate (SuperGlue) will tie the fibers together in MDF and other wood products. Saturate the hole walls and let it set before applying the screw.
I recollect reading that Low Viscosity (water like) Cyanoacrylate (SuperGlue) will tie the fibers together in MDF and other wood products. Saturate the hole walls and let it set before applying the screw.
I think super glue is a little 'too tough' for this. PVA in the hole and 30 minutes of 'have a coffee' time will bode you well. I f you plan to remove the driver a number of times, consider threaded insets, they really are your friend.
rather than screws to hold t-nuts in place, a dab of epoxy on the outside of them before insertion gets the job done nicely- just be sure to clean off the threads quickly, first with a q-tip, then by running a bolt through the mounting in and out a few times, wiping in-between. Move quickly.
Cmon, it's easey! Turn the driver 30 degrees around, drill new holes, voila!
Every time you get the holes messed-up, turn the driver a bit and drill new holes...
🙂
Every time you get the holes messed-up, turn the driver a bit and drill new holes...
🙂
I think any method involving threads in wood or anything less than metal is going to crumble sooner or later. I've often reflected that, if driver manufacturers were true gentlemen, they would provide a metal ring - same inside diameter as driver cutout - with tapped holes corresponding to the fixing holes for the driver. This could then be fitted to the rear of the panel during assembly (fastened with glue or bolts). Then gives you metal to bolt into - and remove replace as many times as you want without problems. Wouldn't cost them much extra to manufacture in quantity.
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