Samsung Syncmaster 150mp good or not?

The reason I'm asking this is because I have conflicting results through the search engine:

Samsung 150mp is bad:
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=56184&highlight=samsung+150mp

Samsung 150mp is great:
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=13798&highlight=samsung+150mp

Can anyone give a definitive answer? I'd also like to hear from Magamus if he's around, it seems like he had the issues of the first post then went on to later praise the monitor for no apparent reason.
 

cbm5

Member
2005-03-14 12:47 am
Arkansas
I'd tell you, my own 150MP should be up at the front office but it might be to late to go get it. So maybe tonight or tomorrow I'll post some pics.

However, there might be a problem: manufacturers change devices but keep the name. So the one I get may have only one board attached to the LCD, or it might have two. I can deal with either.

You just have to risk it with LCDs. No guarantee what's inside. If there is a little FFC in the way, it can be extended. Basically I'm planning to extend an FFC, and if I get lucky I won't need to.
 

cbm5

Member
2005-03-14 12:47 am
Arkansas
OK, I got my 150MP today. Tested it as-is, and frankly I'm getting a little twinge of remorse at sticking this into an ugly MDF contraption. The display is nice, no doubt about it. I managed to snag mine for a measly $140 on eBay.

To insulate myself from any blame if someone buys a 150MP and it doesn't look the same inside, I'll give specific info. On the back it says:
Model Name: 150MP S
Model Code: GD15NSSS
Color Display Unit
Type No: ML15NS
MADE IN SUWON, KOREA (SEC)
MANUFACTURED: OCTOBER 2002

Now that's out of the way. Unless your model is very close in age to mine, I would not guarantee that the manufacturer didn't change the construction. They'll do that almost on a whim, typically a part is a few cents cheaper from a different supplier and they'll switch.

First of all, the overall look of the display:
[IMGDEAD]http://img63.imageshack.us/img63/2493/pict00381ly.th.jpg[/IMGDEAD]
Pretty slick, wouldn't mind using it as a desktop monitor if I didn't have anything bigger (22" Diamondtron CRT...those are cheap on eBay too, check them out). There is a photoeye for the IR remote on the top of the display. More on that later.

Now let's look at the back:
[IMGDEAD]http://img83.imageshack.us/img83/228/pict00394me.th.jpg[/IMGDEAD]
There are video and audio ports under a snap-on cover. VGA, S-Video, composite, stereo RCA and stereo headphones. Plus a connector for cable TV or a broadcast antenna. There are four screws on the back, and two under the front bottom edge. Once these are removed....

Inside:
[IMGDEAD]http://img15.imageshack.us/img15/5028/pict00404vo.th.jpg[/IMGDEAD]
The back plastic can be swiveled up and removed, exposing the nice metal shielding. Very nicely put together, in fact. You can tell it's not cheap no-brand garbage. There are four screws holding the front bezel to the metal assembly. I also removed the screw holding down the IR photoeye and unplugged the cables for the speakers and control board.

Bezel removed:
[IMGDEAD]http://img15.imageshack.us/img15/9884/pict00412hs.th.jpg[/IMGDEAD]
The control panel board is nice. It uses a simple header cable to connect to the main logic board. It could be easily extended and adapted to the exterior of a projector. Same for the IR receiver. In fact, only a couple wires would need to be extended there; once you have the remote working, you don't really need the front control panel anyway.

Logic board:
[IMGDEAD]http://img95.imageshack.us/img95/5475/pict00424pm.th.jpg[/IMGDEAD]
I've removed the metal covering the logic board. Looks good so far. All cables look strong and easily unplugged. Only one logic board to worry about. Has good mounting holes, and the video I/O is all on the same side, all routed to a nice bezel that looks like it will adapt perfectly to the side of a projector.

LCD assembly:
[IMGDEAD]http://img95.imageshack.us/img95/49/pict00449zv.th.jpg[/IMGDEAD]
One non-FFC cable connects the logic board to the LCD panel. Four screws hold the plastic LCD assembly within the metal shielding. Once the screws are removed, the metal must be carefully pried off, there are pressure points and springs that hold the LCD firmly while allowing it to be cushioned. At the corners there are some tiny Philips screws that help sandwich the LCD glass between the plastic backing and metal front bezel.

Bare LCD:
[IMGDEAD]http://img164.imageshack.us/img164/7357/pict00458xl.th.jpg[/IMGDEAD]
And that's it! It's a little tricky to pry the plastic out of the metal frame. You must be very careful to remove any screws, check for any tape that might be sticking it down. Then carefully work around the edge, prying the plastic up a little on each pass. Eventually you will be able to swivel the plastic on the connector edge, and slide it out. The connector edge itself is very good, only one board and no FFC crossing the back of the LCD. The flat flex from the board to the glass is pretty generous, but obviously as fragile there as any LCD. Once the sticky silver shielding is removed, the board will swivel all the way to flat. Obviously handle it mininally. I cracked one of those flex connections on my old LCD, that's why I got this 150MP. Only thing I miss from the other LCD is that it had a bezel that held the LCD better. Made it easy to mount. For this LCD I will have to fabricate a frame myself.

Overall impression: very, very good for DIY. The video inputs save you at least $60 on a converter box. The components are ideal for rearranging inside a custom enclosure. No FFC issue. Based on the performance as a regular display, the color is great. Remember that all 150MPs might not look the same inside.