I dug around in my house and found these binding plates (i think...) in a closet. Want to use them in my project, as I won't have to buy new binding posts...only concern is that it's pretty short. As in I wouldn't be able to turn the knob if I drilled two holes for the post. How can I rout a recess for the thing?
Brendan
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An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Brendan
Looks like you have a couple of choices.
One would be to rout a pretty shallow crescent-shaped recess that would just accommodate the lowest part of the plastic piece, which would leave the humps that the posts are fastened into standing proud. To do this, I'd recommend making a template to fit a 1/4" straight bit out of 1/8" masonite or 1/4" plywood. You can carefully hack this out using drill bits and files until you get a nice smooth shape that fits your pieces, as determined by making some test cuts on the plywood. You want to place spacers underneath the pattern to raise it up so the smooth shank of the bit rides on the template when the cutter tip is at the appropriate depth. As i'm writing this, i'm thinking, man, what a pain! But it could be done.
If you're pretty good with your hands, you could try it freehand and come up not quite to the line, and finish with a sharp chisel and Xacto knife until you get a good fit. The freehand approach would probably be easier with a router attachment for a Dremel rather than a full size router.
The other solution is to drill two clean holes that exactly fit the round plastic parts directly under where the posts are attached. Then you can freehand the router to inset the whole part from the back so the top of those plastic nubs are just flush or slightly proud of the outer surface of your panel when inserted from the back. It doesn't matter how ugly the cuts inside are--within reason.
--Buckapound
One would be to rout a pretty shallow crescent-shaped recess that would just accommodate the lowest part of the plastic piece, which would leave the humps that the posts are fastened into standing proud. To do this, I'd recommend making a template to fit a 1/4" straight bit out of 1/8" masonite or 1/4" plywood. You can carefully hack this out using drill bits and files until you get a nice smooth shape that fits your pieces, as determined by making some test cuts on the plywood. You want to place spacers underneath the pattern to raise it up so the smooth shank of the bit rides on the template when the cutter tip is at the appropriate depth. As i'm writing this, i'm thinking, man, what a pain! But it could be done.
If you're pretty good with your hands, you could try it freehand and come up not quite to the line, and finish with a sharp chisel and Xacto knife until you get a good fit. The freehand approach would probably be easier with a router attachment for a Dremel rather than a full size router.
The other solution is to drill two clean holes that exactly fit the round plastic parts directly under where the posts are attached. Then you can freehand the router to inset the whole part from the back so the top of those plastic nubs are just flush or slightly proud of the outer surface of your panel when inserted from the back. It doesn't matter how ugly the cuts inside are--within reason.
--Buckapound
routing
Not sure why you couldn't free hand rout a shallow crescent slot into the wood, using a sharp carbide bit and a decent high speed router. Trace the pattern, set the router depth, then plunge rout the area of interest. That's how I did the belly of my external xovers..
John L.
Not sure why you couldn't free hand rout a shallow crescent slot into the wood, using a sharp carbide bit and a decent high speed router. Trace the pattern, set the router depth, then plunge rout the area of interest. That's how I did the belly of my external xovers..
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
John L.
I think you can just install the posts and discard the plate. On the visible side of the cab counter sink the hole just deep enough to flush mount the collar (or just a little higher). Counter sink in from the oposite side to the depth and width required to get the connector on and the nut tight. Add some some adhesive during final assembly (i like pl400) to ensure the post doesn't spin.
Tim
Tim
The best solution.
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