Hi folks
I have the following router: Hitachi M12VE/J6 1/2-inch Variable speed router: Amazon.co.uk: DIY & Tools
It's a Hitachi M12VE, 2000W, variable speed, adjustable plunge, 1/2 inch router.
I have a couple of 6.5inch Markaudio Alpair drivers, and ~70mm ports and terminal blocks.
I want to use walnut veneered MDF, and route recesses for the driver, port and terminals.
Questions:
-What bit(s) do I need to get for the router?
-What RPM should I use for this material?
-How do I guide it to make a perfect circle?
-Do I need to protect the wood surface from the router chassis?
-What technique and order should I do things in; route then cut hole, or cut hole then route, Please explain how I do it. Any good youtubes on recessing speakers?
-Is there anything else I need to know / consider?
PS I have searched and read the forums, and spoke to a friend who knows a lot about routers. But it seems like there are a lot of variables depending on what material, depth, and shape you're cutting. And what router you're using. So I thought I need some specific advice.
Thank you so much!
I have the following router: Hitachi M12VE/J6 1/2-inch Variable speed router: Amazon.co.uk: DIY & Tools
It's a Hitachi M12VE, 2000W, variable speed, adjustable plunge, 1/2 inch router.
I have a couple of 6.5inch Markaudio Alpair drivers, and ~70mm ports and terminal blocks.
I want to use walnut veneered MDF, and route recesses for the driver, port and terminals.
Questions:
-What bit(s) do I need to get for the router?
-What RPM should I use for this material?
-How do I guide it to make a perfect circle?
-Do I need to protect the wood surface from the router chassis?
-What technique and order should I do things in; route then cut hole, or cut hole then route, Please explain how I do it. Any good youtubes on recessing speakers?
-Is there anything else I need to know / consider?
PS I have searched and read the forums, and spoke to a friend who knows a lot about routers. But it seems like there are a lot of variables depending on what material, depth, and shape you're cutting. And what router you're using. So I thought I need some specific advice.
Thank you so much!
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And of course practice/dry-run on scrap MDF.
Formaldehyde (the carcinogen in poor quality MDF) is a vapour so a mask isn't doing anything for that - but wood dust is nasty stuff anyway, especially hardwoods, so the mask is vital. Decent MDF should be low-formaldehyde. Work outdoors if possible.
Formaldehyde (the carcinogen in poor quality MDF) is a vapour so a mask isn't doing anything for that - but wood dust is nasty stuff anyway, especially hardwoods, so the mask is vital. Decent MDF should be low-formaldehyde. Work outdoors if possible.
My experience of making my speakers (not yet completed) was,
I chose a bit that could cut a deep channel 10mm wide from the box,
I adjusted it to cut almost all the way through leaving about 1mm,
I attached a circle guide and adjusted it to cut the size of hole I needed,
I drilled a small hole at center of where the driver will be positioned,
I used this hole as a guide to cut the circle for the driver,
what remains can be cut away with a trimming bit.
This was for a twelve inch driver so for a smaller driver you'll need a setup to cut smaller circles, obviously you'll need a good box of bits that allows you make the cuts you want
Don't be afraid to experiment on cut off pieces of MDF to check your setting for depth before you cut the pieces for the speakers. I ran the router at max speed and things worked out ok. I'm a newcomer to this so there were some mistakes.
I chose a bit that could cut a deep channel 10mm wide from the box,
I adjusted it to cut almost all the way through leaving about 1mm,
I attached a circle guide and adjusted it to cut the size of hole I needed,
I drilled a small hole at center of where the driver will be positioned,
I used this hole as a guide to cut the circle for the driver,
what remains can be cut away with a trimming bit.
This was for a twelve inch driver so for a smaller driver you'll need a setup to cut smaller circles, obviously you'll need a good box of bits that allows you make the cuts you want
Don't be afraid to experiment on cut off pieces of MDF to check your setting for depth before you cut the pieces for the speakers. I ran the router at max speed and things worked out ok. I'm a newcomer to this so there were some mistakes.
Thank you guys
I have a hole saw to make the perfect hole for the driver, and another for the port, so I only need the router to recess a few mm to make the driver. I've seen those router compasses for sale.
I could use that to make the recess, then use the same pilot hole for the hole saw on the drill and they might work great together
I will be strapping my henry hoover (which I also attach to my festool tracksaw) to the area, as I can't work outside. Will get the mast and glasses for sure
I have a hole saw to make the perfect hole for the driver, and another for the port, so I only need the router to recess a few mm to make the driver. I've seen those router compasses for sale.
I could use that to make the recess, then use the same pilot hole for the hole saw on the drill and they might work great together
I will be strapping my henry hoover (which I also attach to my festool tracksaw) to the area, as I can't work outside. Will get the mast and glasses for sure
If you want to make your own circle jig, this is how I did it. DIY Circle Jig
I found routing with veneer already applied to be problematic (I was flush trimming and putting on chamfers). The problems I had were marks on the veneer from the router sliding along, and chipping.
When I do rebated cutouts with the jig, I route the rebate first and then do the hole (but there are other ways to do it too). As already mentioned, practice on some off cuts first! Also put some veneer on those offcuts before you start as well
Tony.
I found routing with veneer already applied to be problematic (I was flush trimming and putting on chamfers). The problems I had were marks on the veneer from the router sliding along, and chipping.
When I do rebated cutouts with the jig, I route the rebate first and then do the hole (but there are other ways to do it too). As already mentioned, practice on some off cuts first! Also put some veneer on those offcuts before you start as well
Tony.
I use this mask with a set of P3 (Vapour) filters which I believe is even sufficient for spray painting.
Protector Respirator Kit | Bunnings Warehouse
A little paper mask will do little good against MDF because the particle size is small.
Thanks Tony
Yes I will have to protect the veneer from the router with some kind of material somehow.
A friend of mine is kindly going to laser cut me a custom compass with bearings which should be good.
Regards the hole, I will cut it afterwards with a hole saw. I just need to make sure the router doesn't scratch up the veneer, and the bit is cutting downwards to keep the edge clean. Fingers crossed!
I'll have a look at paint masks to.
Yes I will have to protect the veneer from the router with some kind of material somehow.
A friend of mine is kindly going to laser cut me a custom compass with bearings which should be good.
Regards the hole, I will cut it afterwards with a hole saw. I just need to make sure the router doesn't scratch up the veneer, and the bit is cutting downwards to keep the edge clean. Fingers crossed!
I'll have a look at paint masks to.
Troels has some info on this as well as on the same page plenty of other hints as well as chamfers on the rear of the driver hole.
Tips and ideas Copyright 2012-14
Adjustable router guide
I use the same Jantzen router guide but previously used a nylon kitchen cutting board with holes drilled as required. I've done hundreds of holes and rebates on timber veneered surfaces and never had an issue with deep scratches, marks or tearing (use straight carbide bits). Most of the time it's done prior to final sanding but there has been times on finished surfaces. At the worst, a light sand and recoat is all that is required.
Tips and ideas Copyright 2012-14
Adjustable router guide
I use the same Jantzen router guide but previously used a nylon kitchen cutting board with holes drilled as required. I've done hundreds of holes and rebates on timber veneered surfaces and never had an issue with deep scratches, marks or tearing (use straight carbide bits). Most of the time it's done prior to final sanding but there has been times on finished surfaces. At the worst, a light sand and recoat is all that is required.
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