analog_sa said:It is extremely rare for a tube amp to cause damage to speakers. Even if unreasonaly abused.
You just have to put up with the damage to the music for the rest of the time.
Is a tube amp with a transformer any different as a safety measure to a solid state amp with a capacitor?
I know its not audibly good to have a capacitor in the signal path, but until you're confident the amp will behave/your speakers aren't in danger its surely essential?
Besides, you'd remove that transformer if you could
I know its not audibly good to have a capacitor in the signal path, but until you're confident the amp will behave/your speakers aren't in danger its surely essential?
Besides, you'd remove that transformer if you could
pinkmouse said:
You just have to put up with the damage to the music for the rest of the time.
Music damage? Cross the pond and say that! C`mon.
philpoole said:Is a tube amp with a transformer any different as a safety measure to a solid state amp with a capacitor?
I know its not audibly good to have a capacitor in the signal path, but until you're confident the amp will behave/your speakers aren't in danger its surely essential?
Besides, you'd remove that transformer if you could
Tube amps also output less power in general. This is of course extremely unscientific but most people agree that a SS amp needs to be several times more powerful for equal subjective loudness.
Also, they clip in a more speaker-sympathetic way.
analog_sa said:
I don't see anything "obscene". They generally sell for between 1-1.5k. With suitable music and high quality amplification few minimonitors can really beat them. Not to mention the added collectors appeal. If anything, they sell cheap.
I hear you . Friend's of mine has a pair (Rogers LS 3/5 15 Ohm) in a closet . He said they're flat , lifeless and boring . Gotta borrow them and make up my mind .
Regards, L
limono said:analog_sa said:
flat , lifeless and boring . Gotta borrow them and make up my mind
It's the best thing to do.
With a 12W (but ridiculously oversized)PP 2A3 amp they do everything better than my Sonus Faber Signum with the exception of mid bass power. With some types of music they make the SF sound very artificial in comparison.
Will be looking forward to your impressions.
Gotta borrow them and make up my mind .
My Chartwells are stunning. They'll never throw you against the walls and rattle the windows, but they're perfect for more gentle listening - whatever you're listening to.
They're quite peculiar, which might be why your friend thinks they're lifeless. The treble and midrange are attenuated somewhat to accentuate the bass. I find when driven well, and you're acclimatised, they sound great. Wonderful soundstage, and tons of detail.
Since this thread, and rediscovering that webpage, I'm now toying with resealing the front baffle. My cones return reasonably quickly. Hmmm...
I recall now that Herb Reichert in SP "flesh and blood " 300B article was raving about LS 3/5 and this amp (even though it should not work at all ) I do have a breadboard of that amp somewhere and a pair of A-Note OPTs . Seems like it could work out. Next week maybe. Thanks and regards, L
Just installed Jordan JX92S drivers (had these for a while) in the
LS3/5a boxes - it fits just nicely, even the 4 bolts are in the right position if substituted for thinner bolts - left the T27 in place but not
connected - might consider connecting later. Not an ideal
configuration, probably.
Jordans sound less detailed, more polite. I miss the bottom end boost
of the Rogers crossovers. I will give an extended listen to them but
at least I have some decent sound again!
LS3/5a boxes - it fits just nicely, even the 4 bolts are in the right position if substituted for thinner bolts - left the T27 in place but not
connected - might consider connecting later. Not an ideal
configuration, probably.
Jordans sound less detailed, more polite. I miss the bottom end boost
of the Rogers crossovers. I will give an extended listen to them but
at least I have some decent sound again!
limono said:He said they're flat , lifeless and boring
I don't know about that. The last pair thru here -- a couple months ago -- were pretty bpxy sounding -- a real cupped midrange.
I don't remember them sounding like that when i sold them new. They did lack sufficient dynamics and i had a love/hate relationshop with them.
dave
These KEF B110 drivers (which are blown) have a bextrene cone (a early from of polypropylene) with obvious translucent white glue holding the dustcap on.
If I was to think about doing a DIY fix, is there any way I can dissolve this glue without affecting the bextrene - I think I read somewhere that this might be PVA?
If I was to think about doing a DIY fix, is there any way I can dissolve this glue without affecting the bextrene - I think I read somewhere that this might be PVA?
Hi
If you want to try a repair I have repaired Kef B110's before using pva glue. It was not difficult. Just keep the bextreen cone central in the magnet to avoid it touching the magnet when the glue is set.
I am surprise that your lS3/5a uses the kef driver; I thought your version used the Rogers driver.
If you are using the Kef driver I have all the data on the cabinet, crossover and drivers for all the Kef versions of the LS3/5a if you want to make any changes to your speaker. Out of interest Kef did a later version that is not strictly an LS3/5a but is kef's idea of what the next version would have been. I have details of that also.
Don
If you want to try a repair I have repaired Kef B110's before using pva glue. It was not difficult. Just keep the bextreen cone central in the magnet to avoid it touching the magnet when the glue is set.
I am surprise that your lS3/5a uses the kef driver; I thought your version used the Rogers driver.
If you are using the Kef driver I have all the data on the cabinet, crossover and drivers for all the Kef versions of the LS3/5a if you want to make any changes to your speaker. Out of interest Kef did a later version that is not strictly an LS3/5a but is kef's idea of what the next version would have been. I have details of that also.
Don
Thanks Don,
At last I've found somebody who has done this before - most everybody has said don't do this yourself, send it to the professionals, but they are not reconing this drive anymore!
I would imagine my former is busted so first I need to take off the dustcap - can this be removed without using a scalpel to cut it out?
I will post some pics:
At last I've found somebody who has done this before - most everybody has said don't do this yourself, send it to the professionals, but they are not reconing this drive anymore!
I would imagine my former is busted so first I need to take off the dustcap - can this be removed without using a scalpel to cut it out?
I will post some pics:
Attachments
OK Don,
Just to get me started, did you use a scalpel or unglued it? Where do I start - is there a good DIY guide to speaker disassembly? I have seen a Utube vid on speaker making here: http://ie.youtube.com/watch?v=izQHjVWfzDQ&feature=related but the disassembly process is not always the reverse of the assembly process
John
Just to get me started, did you use a scalpel or unglued it? Where do I start - is there a good DIY guide to speaker disassembly? I have seen a Utube vid on speaker making here: http://ie.youtube.com/watch?v=izQHjVWfzDQ&feature=related but the disassembly process is not always the reverse of the assembly process
John
Hi
I very gently prised the cone /rubber surround appart and the cone/dust cap appart. It was not so bad as the glue was very old ( I have repaired more than one but did my last repair about 7 years ago ) I prised them apart in small amounts at a time to avoid distorting anything. I actually used a swiss army knife which is almost as sharp as a scalple.
Don
I very gently prised the cone /rubber surround appart and the cone/dust cap appart. It was not so bad as the glue was very old ( I have repaired more than one but did my last repair about 7 years ago ) I prised them apart in small amounts at a time to avoid distorting anything. I actually used a swiss army knife which is almost as sharp as a scalple.
Don
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