Typically, 33 or 27 ohm resistors are used with the 064s but there are amps that use 47 ohm resistors with them.
If you have the 33/34 ohm resistors, use them. If not, the 47s should be OK but you need to confirm that they're being switched off efficiently by reducing the 12v supply voltage to maximize the pulse width.
If the FETs run hot at idle or the amp draws more current when the voltage is decreased, the resistor value is too high.
If you have the 33/34 ohm resistors, use them. If not, the 47s should be OK but you need to confirm that they're being switched off efficiently by reducing the 12v supply voltage to maximize the pulse width.
If the FETs run hot at idle or the amp draws more current when the voltage is decreased, the resistor value is too high.
It's probably not necessary but since it only requires turning a knob on your power supply. you may as well try it.
If you really want to see if the 47 ohm resistors would cause a problem, install them and perform the test. It will take only a few minutes. Even if they appear to be OK, I'd install the 33s before you let it go. Even if the 47s appear to be OK, they may be marginal and variables likely the temperature of the various components could cause a problem when the amp is reinstalled.
If you really want to see if the 47 ohm resistors would cause a problem, install them and perform the test. It will take only a few minutes. Even if they appear to be OK, I'd install the 33s before you let it go. Even if the 47s appear to be OK, they may be marginal and variables likely the temperature of the various components could cause a problem when the amp is reinstalled.
All is well with the power supply......I think.
The amps works great except when I get to about 20 amps current draw the protect light flashes and the amp cuts out.
I replaced the p/s FETS, p/s gate resistors, p/s drivers, p/s caps. I also replaced the rail caps.
The amp powers up fine, has no current draw and is stable. There is no DC on the output terminals. The amp produces clean audio on all 4 channels.
The amp has rail and does not lose it while the protect flashes or the amp is cutting out.
There is no spikes of DC on the output terminals when the protect flashes and the amp cuts out.
The amp has regulated voltage through out.
This amp will play for hours on the bench as long as you dont exceed 20 amps current draw. When you do the protect light flashes very quickly then the amp cuts out. It comes right back on though. Its almost like the CD is skipping.
Could this be something faulty in the protection circuit?
The amps works great except when I get to about 20 amps current draw the protect light flashes and the amp cuts out.
I replaced the p/s FETS, p/s gate resistors, p/s drivers, p/s caps. I also replaced the rail caps.
The amp powers up fine, has no current draw and is stable. There is no DC on the output terminals. The amp produces clean audio on all 4 channels.
The amp has rail and does not lose it while the protect flashes or the amp is cutting out.
There is no spikes of DC on the output terminals when the protect flashes and the amp cuts out.
The amp has regulated voltage through out.
This amp will play for hours on the bench as long as you dont exceed 20 amps current draw. When you do the protect light flashes very quickly then the amp cuts out. It comes right back on though. Its almost like the CD is skipping.
Could this be something faulty in the protection circuit?
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