Is this a reasonable novice design for a sub-sat system:
Design goals:
- Small enclosures
- Decent sound (I’m not really an audiophile)
- Reasonably good low end extension, but bass not boomy
- Low directivity
Satellites:
- Tang Band W4-657 4” woofer
- HiVi TN25 tweeter
- Crossover: 3rd order Butterworth @ 3kHz
- Vented enclosure, 280 in^3 (4.6 l), tuned to 69 Hz
- L-pad the tweeter to taste
- Impedance compensation network on the woofer
Sub:
- Tang Band W6-1139SI 6.5” sub driver
- Dayton SA25 25W plate amp
- Vented enclosure, 650 in^3 (10.7 l), tuned to 38 Hz, 1.5” dia port
¾” MDF cabinets, lined with polyester or fiberglass
Bracing and some patches of constrained-layer damping in the sub
This will be a portable system with satellites detachable from the sub. Satellites will be driven by a T-amp. Most of the time, the system will live in my workshop. It will play a wide variety of music, from acapella vocal to metal, but none of it very loud.
Is my design in line with my goals? I don’t plan on doing any measuring and have leaned heavily on WinISD. Comments or suggestions?
-
Design goals:
- Small enclosures
- Decent sound (I’m not really an audiophile)
- Reasonably good low end extension, but bass not boomy
- Low directivity
Satellites:
- Tang Band W4-657 4” woofer
- HiVi TN25 tweeter
- Crossover: 3rd order Butterworth @ 3kHz
- Vented enclosure, 280 in^3 (4.6 l), tuned to 69 Hz
- L-pad the tweeter to taste
- Impedance compensation network on the woofer
Sub:
- Tang Band W6-1139SI 6.5” sub driver
- Dayton SA25 25W plate amp
- Vented enclosure, 650 in^3 (10.7 l), tuned to 38 Hz, 1.5” dia port
¾” MDF cabinets, lined with polyester or fiberglass
Bracing and some patches of constrained-layer damping in the sub
This will be a portable system with satellites detachable from the sub. Satellites will be driven by a T-amp. Most of the time, the system will live in my workshop. It will play a wide variety of music, from acapella vocal to metal, but none of it very loud.
Is my design in line with my goals? I don’t plan on doing any measuring and have leaned heavily on WinISD. Comments or suggestions?
-
diesel_88 said:- Tang Band W4-657 4” woofer
- HiVi TN25 tweeter
- Crossover: 3rd order Butterworth @ 3kHz
Satellites will be driven by a T-amp.
T=amps tend to prefer speakers with no XOs.
dave
diesel_88 said:Is this a reasonable novice design for a sub-sat system:
Hi,
Why bother with the sub? If it's only for music, build 2 better speakers - two-ways capable of better bass.
That way you only need a stereo amp, not a 3 channel.
Re: Re: Review my design, please (newbie)?
Excellent point; it's not exactly just for music. This is a sort of practice run for a living-room 5.1 system I want to make later on. I'm doing this project to build experience, get some mistakes over with, and see how these drivers sound. I picked the Tang Band W4-657's because they seemed to require a small enough enclosure (and narrow enough baffle) to hit the target WAF (of the future system) with a reasonable low end, at least by my standards and according to the software I used.
MJL21193 said:Why bother with the sub? If it's only for music, build 2 better speakers - two-ways capable of better bass.
Excellent point; it's not exactly just for music. This is a sort of practice run for a living-room 5.1 system I want to make later on. I'm doing this project to build experience, get some mistakes over with, and see how these drivers sound. I picked the Tang Band W4-657's because they seemed to require a small enough enclosure (and narrow enough baffle) to hit the target WAF (of the future system) with a reasonable low end, at least by my standards and according to the software I used.
Re: Re: Review my design, please (newbie)?
I wasn't aware of that. What effect will a crossover have on the T-amp's performance? I'm not exactly an audiophile--am I likely to notice it?
I picked the T-amp because it's the right size, convenient, and available. What other kinds of small, reasonably-priced amplifiers are out there? I have considered cannibalizing a boom box from a thrift store (!).
planet10 said:
T=amps tend to prefer speakers with no XOs.
dave
I wasn't aware of that. What effect will a crossover have on the T-amp's performance? I'm not exactly an audiophile--am I likely to notice it?
I picked the T-amp because it's the right size, convenient, and available. What other kinds of small, reasonably-priced amplifiers are out there? I have considered cannibalizing a boom box from a thrift store (!).
Re: Re: Re: Review my design, please (newbie)?
I have picked up a few gems at the Goodwill over the years. Boom boxes are best left behind though. Look for an older receiver. These can be had for $20.00 or less.
diesel_88 said:
I have considered cannibalizing a boom box from a thrift store (!).
I have picked up a few gems at the Goodwill over the years. Boom boxes are best left behind though. Look for an older receiver. These can be had for $20.00 or less.
Hi,
Building a tiny subwoofer only make sense with tiny speakers.
Adding in low power amplifiers for very insensitive small speakers
you are not really getting very far. A T-amp will driver small
speakers to decent nearfield levels, add a portable music player.
These will go ~ 10W fullrange and ~ 100W via a HT amplifier :
http://www.zaphaudio.com/ZBM4.html
🙂/sreten.
Building a tiny subwoofer only make sense with tiny speakers.
Adding in low power amplifiers for very insensitive small speakers
you are not really getting very far. A T-amp will driver small
speakers to decent nearfield levels, add a portable music player.
These will go ~ 10W fullrange and ~ 100W via a HT amplifier :
http://www.zaphaudio.com/ZBM4.html
🙂/sreten.
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