I'm looking for a response graph for scan speak's 5" full range car speaker.Model 13m/4535r.If anyone has used this driver or has graph please post.Thanks
Madisound has the speaker you are looking for. It is priced at $90. I believe that is for a single speaker. You can check that yourself-at the website, click "catalog":
www.madisound.com
Madisound has a Scan Speak pdf file that is well worth looking at:
www.madisound.com/scanspeak.pdf
First, I will post the descriptive text, including the Thiele-Small parameters. In my next post, I will post the graph.
www.madisound.com
Madisound has a Scan Speak pdf file that is well worth looking at:
www.madisound.com/scanspeak.pdf
First, I will post the descriptive text, including the Thiele-Small parameters. In my next post, I will post the graph.
Attachments
And here is the graph for it. It has an impressively smooth curve. In fact, I am going to mention this on a thread where someone is looking for a full-range speaker.
If you look closely at the bottom of the graph, the last visible vertical line is 20,000 Hz. So this thing is smooth to 14,000 Hz.
Good luck on your project.
If you look closely at the bottom of the graph, the last visible vertical line is 20,000 Hz. So this thing is smooth to 14,000 Hz.
Good luck on your project.
Attachments
Thanks you for the info.I'm working on a project that will use the flatest broadest range driver I can find.Then use humans 1"aluminum concave to simply extend to 26 khz.I've not chosen the driver to extend the bass region as of yet.I'm looking for a paper kelvar 8"to 10".My design idea is to keep the cross over out of the midrange and only have one main point source the 5" midrange.The high and low end .5 x .5 are so far from the cridical freq.range that the tweeter and woofer should simply complement the midrange.
ttvonau, where are you located in Saskatchewan? I live there as well, and am planning a system almost exactly as you describe. Maybe we can compare notes.
I'm using box plot 2 to determin box demensions for my project.I'm coming up with some goofy numbers.can anyone please run a couple of box programs on this drivers please.Scan speaks 5"full range 13m/4535 in a bipolar config.Also hivi f8 in a bipolar config. I live in cupar serow.Let me know what your plans are all about.
Here is a thread where someone is setting out to do pretty much the same thing as both of you.
Surf, Sun & Sound is one of this forum's most knowledgeable people, so there are a lot of good ideas in the thread.
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?threadid=2960&perpage=15&pagenumber=1
Surf, Sun & Sound is one of this forum's most knowledgeable people, so there are a lot of good ideas in the thread.
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?threadid=2960&perpage=15&pagenumber=1
Thanks for the link Keltic, I've read it a few times already.
I am planning to build a pair of speakers like the second one in the picture below, which I borrowed from a post of PTSOUNDLAB's. Per channel, my version will use a 15" in a sealed Q=.7 bass enclosure, with vintage alnico 8" full range and tweeter in an open baffle . BTW, I got the alnicos from Dave aka planet10, and would recommend him to anyone looking for drivers - the packing of the speakers was great.
The speakers will be biamped using a Marchand fourth-order crossover at 90-125Hz for the transition from sub to the open baffle. For the baffle, I'm thinking of using a first-order crossover on the tweeter at 4-6 kHz with an L-pad for level matching.
Any comments on this concept would be great-unfortunately they will have to be built on a tight budget, as I'm a university student.
ttvonau, I live in Regina, but go to school in Saskatoon.
I am planning to build a pair of speakers like the second one in the picture below, which I borrowed from a post of PTSOUNDLAB's. Per channel, my version will use a 15" in a sealed Q=.7 bass enclosure, with vintage alnico 8" full range and tweeter in an open baffle . BTW, I got the alnicos from Dave aka planet10, and would recommend him to anyone looking for drivers - the packing of the speakers was great.
The speakers will be biamped using a Marchand fourth-order crossover at 90-125Hz for the transition from sub to the open baffle. For the baffle, I'm thinking of using a first-order crossover on the tweeter at 4-6 kHz with an L-pad for level matching.
Any comments on this concept would be great-unfortunately they will have to be built on a tight budget, as I'm a university student.
ttvonau, I live in Regina, but go to school in Saskatoon.
Attachments
Hello Serow,
I'm the Frenchie who have make this draw. You have forgot to say that the picture is not with the good dimensions. So when I have drawn it I was inspired by "BassZilla" of Dick Olsher and the marvelous Martin Logan Aeon. In fact I want the avantage of electrostatic loudspeakers but with the high efficiency. So I have think of the solution 2. Don't think about solution 1 because FE208 are not good in bass reflex. So if you want some informations Email me at ptajan@aol.com.
I want to thanks, Mark, Pit, Dick, Drew, Al (the english "le rosbeaf" comme on dit en France), Dominique an other Frenchie.........diy forum and full range forum, and all the boys who give me informations about Fostex, without them, nothing will be possible.
Best Regards.
Pascal TAJAN
Toulouse/France.
http://ptsoundlab.free.fr
I'm the Frenchie who have make this draw. You have forgot to say that the picture is not with the good dimensions. So when I have drawn it I was inspired by "BassZilla" of Dick Olsher and the marvelous Martin Logan Aeon. In fact I want the avantage of electrostatic loudspeakers but with the high efficiency. So I have think of the solution 2. Don't think about solution 1 because FE208 are not good in bass reflex. So if you want some informations Email me at ptajan@aol.com.
I want to thanks, Mark, Pit, Dick, Drew, Al (the english "le rosbeaf" comme on dit en France), Dominique an other Frenchie.........diy forum and full range forum, and all the boys who give me informations about Fostex, without them, nothing will be possible.
Best Regards.
Pascal TAJAN
Toulouse/France.
http://ptsoundlab.free.fr
Serow
All results of my studdy and this project will be soon (2 or 3 weeks) on my site. Free but sorry in Frenchie.
http://ptsoundlab.free.fr
Cordialement (in french text).
Pascal.
All results of my studdy and this project will be soon (2 or 3 weeks) on my site. Free but sorry in Frenchie.
http://ptsoundlab.free.fr
Cordialement (in french text).
Pascal.
Pascal,
Beautiful renderings- I want to make them right away!!
From my inquiries, I agree that Solution 1 might be best with the FE204 but I also am more excited by solution 2.
I ordered the Basszilla plans from Dick Olsher, and this arrangement would work with the Basszilla. As you pointed out, the proportions would be a bit different for a true Basszilla because it uses a 15" woofer. So, the entire speaker would be taller because the bass cabinet would be about 50% taller.
Although a bit imposing, it would at least be smaller than most panel speakers!!
I think you are planning to use a 10 or 12" woofer with separate amp and active crossover. This is a good idea to make it smaller, and a solid state amp might be best for the woofer anyway!
The 15" is appealing though because it is so efficient (almost 100dB) that it can be driven by the same small amp as the rest of the speaker, Also the 15" recommended is a pro sound driver with limited excursion and low distortion-Very similar in concept to the Fostex 208 and 225, so I imagine they integrate soundwise very well. The recommended 15" drivers are about $280 each so I am tempted to use some 15" Eminence drivers Madisound has for $80 each, and stick with his passive crossover. They may be crap, but i'm too poor at the moment for the real thing! Even a very efficient pro 12" is seldom over 95 db efficient, so you would need to use an L-pad on your mid/tweets if you used one
For the mid, as mentioned in the Basszilla website, he uses a Fe208s If you are using this driver I have been told that the notch filter that Dick Olsher includes in his plans is a very good idea. Probably a good idea if you are making any speaker with the 208! The Basszilla doesn't use a tweeter.
I think Pascal and I have NOT gotten over our infatuation
with the FF225 so we will probably use it. Very few people seem to know much about it but a few have said that it sounds great.
Since we are planning to use tweeters, its high rolloff is no problem, and from the Fostex frequency response curve, it also doesn't seem to need the notch filter. Since it is an unknown, I have begun to imagine it as the greatest driver of all time!-the grass is greener syndrome.
I'm sure Pascal and I will keep you informed. It will be about a month though.
Mark
Beautiful renderings- I want to make them right away!!
From my inquiries, I agree that Solution 1 might be best with the FE204 but I also am more excited by solution 2.
I ordered the Basszilla plans from Dick Olsher, and this arrangement would work with the Basszilla. As you pointed out, the proportions would be a bit different for a true Basszilla because it uses a 15" woofer. So, the entire speaker would be taller because the bass cabinet would be about 50% taller.
Although a bit imposing, it would at least be smaller than most panel speakers!!
I think you are planning to use a 10 or 12" woofer with separate amp and active crossover. This is a good idea to make it smaller, and a solid state amp might be best for the woofer anyway!
The 15" is appealing though because it is so efficient (almost 100dB) that it can be driven by the same small amp as the rest of the speaker, Also the 15" recommended is a pro sound driver with limited excursion and low distortion-Very similar in concept to the Fostex 208 and 225, so I imagine they integrate soundwise very well. The recommended 15" drivers are about $280 each so I am tempted to use some 15" Eminence drivers Madisound has for $80 each, and stick with his passive crossover. They may be crap, but i'm too poor at the moment for the real thing! Even a very efficient pro 12" is seldom over 95 db efficient, so you would need to use an L-pad on your mid/tweets if you used one
For the mid, as mentioned in the Basszilla website, he uses a Fe208s If you are using this driver I have been told that the notch filter that Dick Olsher includes in his plans is a very good idea. Probably a good idea if you are making any speaker with the 208! The Basszilla doesn't use a tweeter.
I think Pascal and I have NOT gotten over our infatuation
with the FF225 so we will probably use it. Very few people seem to know much about it but a few have said that it sounds great.
Since we are planning to use tweeters, its high rolloff is no problem, and from the Fostex frequency response curve, it also doesn't seem to need the notch filter. Since it is an unknown, I have begun to imagine it as the greatest driver of all time!-the grass is greener syndrome.
I'm sure Pascal and I will keep you informed. It will be about a month though.
Mark
Hello Mark,
I forgot to say that if I have think of use 10" or 12" it also because in europe we have small rooms than in usa unfortunately. Real open baffle is too big to.
The filter call "noch" filter is a old filter wich is very ofen use with FE208S, it's a filter which is published in a german publication there is a long time.
Pascal.
I forgot to say that if I have think of use 10" or 12" it also because in europe we have small rooms than in usa unfortunately. Real open baffle is too big to.
The filter call "noch" filter is a old filter wich is very ofen use with FE208S, it's a filter which is published in a german publication there is a long time.
Pascal.
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