Hi all,
Newbie here. I just bought a broken Rega Mira 3 Amp off eBay which I have traced to an intermittent speaker output relay (no sound from one channel at low volume, kicks in when I turn the volume up or put pressure on the relay). I have ordered a replacement part so should hopefully be up and running soon. Sounds lovely once the channel has kicked in!
However on opening this all up I wondered whether it might be possible to make a custom fascia to replace the rather cheap looking plastic one. However I can’t for the life of me work out how to remove the control PCB from the fascia.
I’ve found all the screws for the control PCB but the volume control (between the PCB and the fascia) seems to be attached to both fascia and PCB from behind and is not easily removed.
Has anyone had any joy removing this - I don’t want to force anything as the parts look like they might not easily be replaceable if I break anything!
Thanks in advance!!
Newbie here. I just bought a broken Rega Mira 3 Amp off eBay which I have traced to an intermittent speaker output relay (no sound from one channel at low volume, kicks in when I turn the volume up or put pressure on the relay). I have ordered a replacement part so should hopefully be up and running soon. Sounds lovely once the channel has kicked in!
However on opening this all up I wondered whether it might be possible to make a custom fascia to replace the rather cheap looking plastic one. However I can’t for the life of me work out how to remove the control PCB from the fascia.
I’ve found all the screws for the control PCB but the volume control (between the PCB and the fascia) seems to be attached to both fascia and PCB from behind and is not easily removed.
Has anyone had any joy removing this - I don’t want to force anything as the parts look like they might not easily be replaceable if I break anything!
Thanks in advance!!
First remove the knob, if it is a friction fit, by slowly pulling it out.
If it doesn't budge there may be a set screw, but I doubt it.
If it doesn't budge there may be a set screw, but I doubt it.
The volume control also acts as the encoder that's why its attached to the PCB.
I would be careful interfering with it as it uses an 80 step resistive matrix for the microprocessor labeling it "lossless " .
The more I read about this special volume control the more I would hesitate in case of inadvertently damaging it as its a mainstay component.
I will let somebody else tell you to change the front panel ,it doesn't look too bad from the pictures I have seen.
I would be careful interfering with it as it uses an 80 step resistive matrix for the microprocessor labeling it "lossless " .
The more I read about this special volume control the more I would hesitate in case of inadvertently damaging it as its a mainstay component.
I will let somebody else tell you to change the front panel ,it doesn't look too bad from the pictures I have seen.
Thanks all, for the feedback. I think I will try to procure a scrap one first to play around with before I pull mine apart. I’ve had the main circuit board out which seems simple enough, but like duncan2 says, would be worried about breaking a key component that might not be easily replaceable.
Thanks all!
Thanks all!
Regarding the channel problem, it could also be just a broken solder joint, maybe try reflowing the relay connections and speaker path on that channel.
Hey hasmac, yes I had exactly the same thoughts as you 🙂 I had been prodding the board all over with a plastic tool looking for dry joints, when I chanced upon the relay. I reflowed all the joints to no avail before stumbling on this youtube video showing how to clean the relay contacts - had no idea this could be a problem!!! On further research the problems I experience are exactly like that of a failing relay - eg. if I turn the volume up enough, the sound eventually 'punches through' on the quiet channel returning it to the correct level. It then stays fine until the amp has been powered off for a period of time.