i have two old lout speakers build of two tweeters (3' inch) and a woofer (11' inch) each. the speakers (not the box) r foling apart and i want to replace e'm and keep the box.
the box has a tube (diamiter- ~3inch; length- ~5inch).
i need some recomindations for not expensive but good speakers.....
the box has a tube (diamiter- ~3inch; length- ~5inch).
i need some recomindations for not expensive but good speakers.....
try the home page...
http://www.diyaudio.com/index.php?s=
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http://www.diyaudio.com/index.php?s=
327 links
Browse . What's New . What's Cool . What's Popular . Add A Site
Amplifiers(15)
Projects(42) Kits(27)
Parts(21) Construction(3) Info(1)
Listening & Tweaking(2)
Projects(4) Information(2)
Loudspeakers(6)
Projects(26) Info(16)
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Parts(25) DACs(10)
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Well since you're new, I'll jump in and give a possible reason why people aren't jumping all over this.
Problem 1) We don't know what you're looking for in terms of sound, and what type of music you listen to. (Do you want big bass, wide imaging, clear mids, that type of stuff)
Problem 2) Saying you have a box, and want to put speakers in it is like saying you have a car and want to replace the engine. Some details about the box please. (What are the inside dimensions of the box?) Do you want to keep the same crossover? (You REALLY don't want to, it makes the job even more challenging)
Problem 3) You don't give much information as to the original manufacturer of the speakers. Are they generic "white van" speakers? Were they a name brand?
Problem 4) You don't give any idea of a price range. This is about as important as problem 2.
Personally, I'd say junk the speakers and build it yourself. It won't cost much more to build a new box and you'll end up with a better sounding system that is more tailored to what you want to hear. (That's also why most people have avoided answering your questions, they'll all agree with me on this point as well)
Oh, and one final thing, have patience and don't get snippy.
Problem 1) We don't know what you're looking for in terms of sound, and what type of music you listen to. (Do you want big bass, wide imaging, clear mids, that type of stuff)
Problem 2) Saying you have a box, and want to put speakers in it is like saying you have a car and want to replace the engine. Some details about the box please. (What are the inside dimensions of the box?) Do you want to keep the same crossover? (You REALLY don't want to, it makes the job even more challenging)
Problem 3) You don't give much information as to the original manufacturer of the speakers. Are they generic "white van" speakers? Were they a name brand?
Problem 4) You don't give any idea of a price range. This is about as important as problem 2.
Personally, I'd say junk the speakers and build it yourself. It won't cost much more to build a new box and you'll end up with a better sounding system that is more tailored to what you want to hear. (That's also why most people have avoided answering your questions, they'll all agree with me on this point as well)
Oh, and one final thing, have patience and don't get snippy.
1)i listen to all kinds of music but mostly rock or rap. but these speakers will be mostly used for the tv.
2)i attach a file whith drowing. i dont have a problem whith changing the crossover.
3)BOSE. soi series III
4) i'm looking for something not very expensive....
actualy i'v began reading theory and i'm starting to plen a pair of loadspeakers.
my main problem is building the box... i dont have normal tools to work whith (only jeckson sow...)
2)i attach a file whith drowing. i dont have a problem whith changing the crossover.
3)BOSE. soi series III
4) i'm looking for something not very expensive....
actualy i'v began reading theory and i'm starting to plen a pair of loadspeakers.
my main problem is building the box... i dont have normal tools to work whith (only jeckson sow...)
Attachments
what size woofer I assume 8"?
close to TV hence you need shielded drivers, few good shielded drivers I would recomend a Vifa or Peerless if they fit your price range. But they only make 6" shielded drivers.
tweeter look like cone tweeters (I assume 2"). You can try the 2" "full rnage drivers 300-15k) recomended eariler on another thread. I am too senile to remember details.
If Vifa and Peerless are too expensive Parts Express has some no name drivers that might work. try this...
http://www.partsexpress.com/webpage.cfm?&DID=7&WebPage_ID=100
close to TV hence you need shielded drivers, few good shielded drivers I would recomend a Vifa or Peerless if they fit your price range. But they only make 6" shielded drivers.
tweeter look like cone tweeters (I assume 2"). You can try the 2" "full rnage drivers 300-15k) recomended eariler on another thread. I am too senile to remember details.
If Vifa and Peerless are too expensive Parts Express has some no name drivers that might work. try this...
http://www.partsexpress.com/webpage.cfm?&DID=7&WebPage_ID=100
some general guidelines (not all)
I'd imagine you're not going to spend over $200 on this, maybe $150 for all the drivers. The bose weren't great speakers to begin and you'll probably come out better regardless. I'd almost shoot for as cheap as possible-aside from the cheapest of cheap.
1) Your best bets for a one-off project are the discount/clearance/closeout bins.
2) Consider a 10" or 12" diver also (probably the former). 11" is a weird size. Some 10" or 12" models may fit your opening, not to mention you have a better chance of finding a good one at a good price. You may also be willing to modify the opening.
3) You might be better with a 10. I don't think those cabinets are super-strong--are they? Also, in a two-way like that you won't be able to cross much higher than 500hz. Beaming will start kicking in with the LF driver. Now with that "weird" dispersion pattern (having two 3") I don't really know how serious you want to get with computer modeling design. Personally I'd just slap what fits in to the tweet openings and then actually run basic calculations for the LF section. I'd almost daresay you could leave xover design to somewhat of an after thought on this system just make sure there's enough overlap between the two drivers so you can experiment. The other advantage of a 10 aside from playing higher in freq. is your box might be a little big and you can put sand bags in there to use up volume, a 12 might give you a box a little small.
3) If you do a 10 (that might be a perfect fit) you could possibly use a 2" tweeter. The mounting assembly of the 2" may use all the real estate the bose 3" used. (that' information only you have) If you go with a full 3", like the fostex (on the sale a madisound for $20) you could swing a 12" in that bose ok. But I wonder if the commerical 3" will actually require you to cut out the opening more and a 2" would be an easier install.
look at partsexpress.com is you can get the screen with drivers listed by size, so you can check actual mounting dimensions of drivers and your specific openings. (I really really hate their webpage, its a complete pain). If it was me--I'd just get the specifics on mouting openings and use that to help make your choices. Get the volume of you box too--subtract for braces, ports, and driver displacement.
I'd imagine you're not going to spend over $200 on this, maybe $150 for all the drivers. The bose weren't great speakers to begin and you'll probably come out better regardless. I'd almost shoot for as cheap as possible-aside from the cheapest of cheap.
1) Your best bets for a one-off project are the discount/clearance/closeout bins.
2) Consider a 10" or 12" diver also (probably the former). 11" is a weird size. Some 10" or 12" models may fit your opening, not to mention you have a better chance of finding a good one at a good price. You may also be willing to modify the opening.
3) You might be better with a 10. I don't think those cabinets are super-strong--are they? Also, in a two-way like that you won't be able to cross much higher than 500hz. Beaming will start kicking in with the LF driver. Now with that "weird" dispersion pattern (having two 3") I don't really know how serious you want to get with computer modeling design. Personally I'd just slap what fits in to the tweet openings and then actually run basic calculations for the LF section. I'd almost daresay you could leave xover design to somewhat of an after thought on this system just make sure there's enough overlap between the two drivers so you can experiment. The other advantage of a 10 aside from playing higher in freq. is your box might be a little big and you can put sand bags in there to use up volume, a 12 might give you a box a little small.
3) If you do a 10 (that might be a perfect fit) you could possibly use a 2" tweeter. The mounting assembly of the 2" may use all the real estate the bose 3" used. (that' information only you have) If you go with a full 3", like the fostex (on the sale a madisound for $20) you could swing a 12" in that bose ok. But I wonder if the commerical 3" will actually require you to cut out the opening more and a 2" would be an easier install.
look at partsexpress.com is you can get the screen with drivers listed by size, so you can check actual mounting dimensions of drivers and your specific openings. (I really really hate their webpage, its a complete pain). If it was me--I'd just get the specifics on mouting openings and use that to help make your choices. Get the volume of you box too--subtract for braces, ports, and driver displacement.
First, thanks for giving the additional information that helps. Second, we still need to additional pieces of information, namely what's cheap for you and where are you located. (country should be close enough)
I'm still not convinced that you'll be happy with slapping some new drivers in that box. Do you have some friends with woodworking capabilities to help you build a couple of smallish boxes?
Take a look at: http://www.partsexpress.com/resources/diy/daytoniii/dayton_iii.html and see if maybe this doesn't fit what you're looking for. Its cheap and it claims to sound really good for its price.
I'm still not convinced that you'll be happy with slapping some new drivers in that box. Do you have some friends with woodworking capabilities to help you build a couple of smallish boxes?
Take a look at: http://www.partsexpress.com/resources/diy/daytoniii/dayton_iii.html and see if maybe this doesn't fit what you're looking for. Its cheap and it claims to sound really good for its price.
i can build a new box, but im a newb and only begun reading theory (do u have some good sites?).
i'm from israel and the easyest way to buy speakers for me is from morel (r they any good?) http://www.morel.co.il/ . but its no prob. 4 me to buy from the net.
i want to design a box myself, but i dont have enough knowlge in these area....
if any one wants to help i have icq 60721560
i'm from israel and the easyest way to buy speakers for me is from morel (r they any good?) http://www.morel.co.il/ . but its no prob. 4 me to buy from the net.
i want to design a box myself, but i dont have enough knowlge in these area....
if any one wants to help i have icq 60721560
now i get it. the 2 " are essentially full range drivers 300-15k kinda stuff.
those i have seen before as I said before but am too senile to remember where.
the bass is probably a 10" unit i have seen this before too again my mind is lost. try partexpress but they will reomend a 8" for teh type of box you have. besides 8 or 10" are hardly shielded.
those i have seen before as I said before but am too senile to remember where.
the bass is probably a 10" unit i have seen this before too again my mind is lost. try partexpress but they will reomend a 8" for teh type of box you have. besides 8 or 10" are hardly shielded.
Don't know about Morel speakers, other than I've heard of them. If its box design software you're looking for, you could try out several pieces of software including Unibox, winISD, and subsim. (Doing a search on here for any of those will give you their sites, or even a google search will turn them up) The only catch with these pieces of software is that you need to know which woofer you're going to be using. (The tweeter isn't that big a deal) When it comes to the crossover, things can get ugly, but I"m sure others will be willing to help out with its design. (I think winISD will offer a basic crossover design for you)
So, what I would recommend you do is, download one or more of the pieces of software I mentioned (unibox needs Excel, by the way) and pick a driver to experiment with (get the specs from the Morel site for the driver you want to simulate) and start playing! You can enter the volume of your box and things like that to see how the driver would perform in your box to help you decide what you really want to do.
Good luck!
So, what I would recommend you do is, download one or more of the pieces of software I mentioned (unibox needs Excel, by the way) and pick a driver to experiment with (get the specs from the Morel site for the driver you want to simulate) and start playing! You can enter the volume of your box and things like that to see how the driver would perform in your box to help you decide what you really want to do.
Good luck!
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