I've got a set of KEF 104 (not the ab version) which I'd like to recap as the caps are buldging and lots of things sound wrong with the output.
The crossovers currently have Elcaps in the following properties.
1x4.2uF 50V
2x5uF 50V
I'd like to replace them with something of a similar quality (or better if not too expensive). Could someone please recommend a capacitor type and reasonable brand?
Falcon Acoustics have Solen "Alcap" caps which are rated to 400V. Would these be a good replacement? I'd get a 2 + 2.2 to replace 4.2 which they don't seem to have.
Or is there something more suitable?
Thanks
The crossovers currently have Elcaps in the following properties.
1x4.2uF 50V
2x5uF 50V
I'd like to replace them with something of a similar quality (or better if not too expensive). Could someone please recommend a capacitor type and reasonable brand?
Falcon Acoustics have Solen "Alcap" caps which are rated to 400V. Would these be a good replacement? I'd get a 2 + 2.2 to replace 4.2 which they don't seem to have.
Or is there something more suitable?
Thanks
The Falcon Acoustic Alcap 100VDC electrolytic capacitors are reliable replacements which will last for years.
An equally good alternative would be Mundorf ECaps from the likes of Wilmslow Audio (5.0 uF and 4.0 uF are available):
https://wilmslowaudio.co.uk/mundorf-electrolytic-ecap-capacitors
EDIT: I would stick with electrolytics to preserve the original voicing of the loudspeaker.
An equally good alternative would be Mundorf ECaps from the likes of Wilmslow Audio (5.0 uF and 4.0 uF are available):
https://wilmslowaudio.co.uk/mundorf-electrolytic-ecap-capacitors
EDIT: I would stick with electrolytics to preserve the original voicing of the loudspeaker.
Tanks for the info, I'll look at those Mundorf caps now.
Are you suggesting that 4.0 is close enough to replace 4.2?
Are you suggesting that 4.0 is close enough to replace 4.2?
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4.0 is within 5% of 4.2 which I would regard as quite acceptable.
And note that the Mundorfs themselves have a manufacturing tolerance of +/- 5%.
And note that the Mundorfs themselves have a manufacturing tolerance of +/- 5%.
Even 10% is permissible in simple crossovers, and that is how I'd describe that of the 104.
Here's a question for you. What is the tolerance of the old ELCAPs currently in use?
i believe that, for more complex crossovers, KEF measured the actual values of a batch of 'same value' capacitors and selected those of the exact required value.
If you have a multimeter with a capacitance scale you can do the same.
Personally, in regard to the 104 crossover, I would be happy to install a 4.0 uF capacitor of 5% tolerance.
Here's a question for you. What is the tolerance of the old ELCAPs currently in use?
i believe that, for more complex crossovers, KEF measured the actual values of a batch of 'same value' capacitors and selected those of the exact required value.
If you have a multimeter with a capacitance scale you can do the same.
Personally, in regard to the 104 crossover, I would be happy to install a 4.0 uF capacitor of 5% tolerance.
Thanks. You should also now realise that your suggestion of paralleling a 2.0 uF with a 2.2 uF, although sounding good on paper, will not necessarily result in exactly 4.2 uF in practice.
I don't want to start a new thread for this quick follow up, but I am going to need to replace some of the internal wiring.
Would something like this do, or is it a bit too ****?
https://www.amazon.co.uk/TUOFENG-Electrical-Different-Temperature-Resistance/dp/B085TP7G5B
It's supposedly solid core, tin coated copper with PVC sheathing. I don't want to have to buy a bunch of different long spools in different colours if I don't have to.
Would something like this do, or is it a bit too ****?
https://www.amazon.co.uk/TUOFENG-Electrical-Different-Temperature-Resistance/dp/B085TP7G5B
It's supposedly solid core, tin coated copper with PVC sheathing. I don't want to have to buy a bunch of different long spools in different colours if I don't have to.
For connecting the crossover to the drivers and to the input terminals I would use figure of eight, flexible speaker cable.
Make sure it's pure copper and not too heavy a gauge, the weight of which can put a strain on the driver terminals and also make soldering difficult.
18 AWG is a quite sufficient thickness as the internal length you will use will be short, and consequently the resistance will be vanishingly small.
This 5 m length example seems to fulfill the requirements and is inexpensive:
https://www.amazon.co.uk/iStrand-Premium-Strand-Oxygen-Speaker/dp/B0977CVXSF/ref=sr_1_15?crid=2WQHKYWKFES3Q&keywords=18+gauge+speaker+cable+copper&qid=1700057526&s=electronics&sprefix=18+gauge+speaker+cable+copper,electronics,136&sr=1-15
EDIT: An alternative is QED classic 42 strand cable which is 19 AWG:
https://www.amazon.co.uk/QED-Classic-Strand-Speaker-Cable-white/dp/B0058HIZCU/ref=sr_1_6?crid=2DT4BJMMOCMC9&keywords=qed+42+strand+speaker+cable&qid=1700058182&s=electronics&sprefix=qed+42+strand+speaker+cable,electronics,99&sr=1-6
Make sure it's pure copper and not too heavy a gauge, the weight of which can put a strain on the driver terminals and also make soldering difficult.
18 AWG is a quite sufficient thickness as the internal length you will use will be short, and consequently the resistance will be vanishingly small.
This 5 m length example seems to fulfill the requirements and is inexpensive:
https://www.amazon.co.uk/iStrand-Premium-Strand-Oxygen-Speaker/dp/B0977CVXSF/ref=sr_1_15?crid=2WQHKYWKFES3Q&keywords=18+gauge+speaker+cable+copper&qid=1700057526&s=electronics&sprefix=18+gauge+speaker+cable+copper,electronics,136&sr=1-15
EDIT: An alternative is QED classic 42 strand cable which is 19 AWG:
https://www.amazon.co.uk/QED-Classic-Strand-Speaker-Cable-white/dp/B0058HIZCU/ref=sr_1_6?crid=2DT4BJMMOCMC9&keywords=qed+42+strand+speaker+cable&qid=1700058182&s=electronics&sprefix=qed+42+strand+speaker+cable,electronics,99&sr=1-6
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Ah, you didn't mention your requirement for colour coding!
I would make a careful note and/or take photographs of the existing wiring in order to avoid making mistakes.
I would make a careful note and/or take photographs of the existing wiring in order to avoid making mistakes.
Well, it's no firm requirement. I was just hoping to replace for as close as like for like. Kef have used Black, White, Red & Blue.
But if it's not going to matter at all. Then I can just sub it out for the wire you've linked.
But if the quality of wire is of little importance then the one I linked gives me all the colours I need.
But if it's not going to matter at all. Then I can just sub it out for the wire you've linked.
But if the quality of wire is of little importance then the one I linked gives me all the colours I need.
Some use solid core wire for internal speaker wiring, but I favour stranded wire for its flexibility.
Is the wire that KEF used solid core or stranded?
The answer to that question may influence your choice of replacement wire.
Is the wire that KEF used solid core or stranded?
The answer to that question may influence your choice of replacement wire.
They're stranded but they're still quite rigid.
I think I am going to go with the stuff I linked above, makes sense for me to have a bunch of different colours for future projects and I am pretty sure it doesn't warrant the amount of overthinking I am giving it.
In other news, the caps Mundorf (finally!) arrived and I've deoxidised the crust off the cross overs and replaced the old caps.
I don't have the tools, but going to try and find someone with a capacitance meter to find out how far the old ones have drifted for my own curiosity.
I think I am going to go with the stuff I linked above, makes sense for me to have a bunch of different colours for future projects and I am pretty sure it doesn't warrant the amount of overthinking I am giving it.
In other news, the caps Mundorf (finally!) arrived and I've deoxidised the crust off the cross overs and replaced the old caps.
I don't have the tools, but going to try and find someone with a capacitance meter to find out how far the old ones have drifted for my own curiosity.
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