Hello All
I have been repairing Klipsch subwoofer amps for about 15 years as a hobby. I have decided to start blogging my repairs and eventually do videos of each one. This thread is intended to be a blog and a resource for information. I will try to answer repair questions as best I can. Comments and tips are also welcome, If you do not have the experience or the tools, PLEASE do not attempt any of these repairs. You will only end up damaging the board and it will end up costing more for a tech to repair the damage. If you do not have a high quality vacuum desoldering station (Hakko or Weller) and a current limited mains supply, you should not be working on these amps. These subwoofers do not have any user serviceable parts inside. If you open up the sub or attempt any repair you see in this thread, you are doing so at your own risk!!!
The main issue that I see with these is a thermal failure. The parts were placed too close together and since almost everyone is too lazy to switch them off when not using them the capacitors just cook and then things start to burn up.
ALWAYS REMEMBER TO UNPLUG OR SWITCH OFF YOUR AMPS. CAPACITORS HAVE A LIFESPAN AND WHEN POWER IS APPLIED THE CLOCK IS TICKING. THE AUTO ON/OFF FUNCTION DOES NOT PREVENT THIS ON MOST MODELS!!!!!!!
I have been repairing Klipsch subwoofer amps for about 15 years as a hobby. I have decided to start blogging my repairs and eventually do videos of each one. This thread is intended to be a blog and a resource for information. I will try to answer repair questions as best I can. Comments and tips are also welcome, If you do not have the experience or the tools, PLEASE do not attempt any of these repairs. You will only end up damaging the board and it will end up costing more for a tech to repair the damage. If you do not have a high quality vacuum desoldering station (Hakko or Weller) and a current limited mains supply, you should not be working on these amps. These subwoofers do not have any user serviceable parts inside. If you open up the sub or attempt any repair you see in this thread, you are doing so at your own risk!!!
The main issue that I see with these is a thermal failure. The parts were placed too close together and since almost everyone is too lazy to switch them off when not using them the capacitors just cook and then things start to burn up.
ALWAYS REMEMBER TO UNPLUG OR SWITCH OFF YOUR AMPS. CAPACITORS HAVE A LIFESPAN AND WHEN POWER IS APPLIED THE CLOCK IS TICKING. THE AUTO ON/OFF FUNCTION DOES NOT PREVENT THIS ON MOST MODELS!!!!!!!
R-115SW plate serial number LK162600399
On this amp the power would not stay on. There were some burned components and one of the capacitors almost achieved liftoff. I would guess it went with a bang and at a minimum scarred the hell out of the cat. All of the Ketuo (how do you even say that?) caps were removed and promptly launched into the garbage bin. The resistor achieved meltdown and was replaced with a flameproof safety resistor and spaced as far as possible from the new caps. The fet was also replaced and spaced higher off the board to help with cooling.
This is a classic case of subwoofer left powered on 24/7. 5W of power at idle is 5W of heat inside a closed chamber with no air movement. Turn your equipment off when not in use or if you MUST be lazy, install a smart outlet that at least powers off when you are sleeping and working. Some silicone to secure the parts and this one is completed.
On this amp the power would not stay on. There were some burned components and one of the capacitors almost achieved liftoff. I would guess it went with a bang and at a minimum scarred the hell out of the cat. All of the Ketuo (how do you even say that?) caps were removed and promptly launched into the garbage bin. The resistor achieved meltdown and was replaced with a flameproof safety resistor and spaced as far as possible from the new caps. The fet was also replaced and spaced higher off the board to help with cooling.
This is a classic case of subwoofer left powered on 24/7. 5W of power at idle is 5W of heat inside a closed chamber with no air movement. Turn your equipment off when not in use or if you MUST be lazy, install a smart outlet that at least powers off when you are sleeping and working. Some silicone to secure the parts and this one is completed.
Attachments
R-112SW plate serial number LH150400882
Had some time tonight to complete another one of these. Repair and full recap. R39 had a meltdown and dried up a few caps and killed the PWM controller power supply. I gooped it pretty good with silicone to dampen the stress on the solder joints so I can let the hot parts breathe a little.
Had some time tonight to complete another one of these. Repair and full recap. R39 had a meltdown and dried up a few caps and killed the PWM controller power supply. I gooped it pretty good with silicone to dampen the stress on the solder joints so I can let the hot parts breathe a little.
Attachments
R-115SW #LK171800360
I can't seem to achieve liftoff. This one was close but it couldn't seem to make it into low woofer orbit. Replaced everything burnt and blown and a full recap and this one is ready to **** off the neighbors again.
I can't seem to achieve liftoff. This one was close but it couldn't seem to make it into low woofer orbit. Replaced everything burnt and blown and a full recap and this one is ready to **** off the neighbors again.
Attachments
Wayne! This is excellent work. Im an definitely guilty of leaving my Klipsch on 24/7 and after reading this, I have turned off the sub and will look into using a switched trigger so that it power on only when I'm using the system.
As my R-115SW amp seems to be going into thermal protection at lower and lower volumes and less and less use... what can I do to help restore its full capability and extend the life and operational temperatures? Would swapping the SPL150 amp help?
As my R-115SW amp seems to be going into thermal protection at lower and lower volumes and less and less use... what can I do to help restore its full capability and extend the life and operational temperatures? Would swapping the SPL150 amp help?
My R115sw went last week I have it about 2.5 years , poor light comes on and there is very little movement from the woofer Can it be repaired or is a replacement recommended.
Hello everyone, if anyone has someone share the R-115SV scheme for a comrade from Ukraine, my mail is afeelalex@gmail.com, thanks !!!
My R-115SW is not putting out any sound.
Changed all the caps and the resistor (FET was good, but changed anyway).
Got 2v on the speaker outputs and the green light works, but thats it.
Changed all the caps and the resistor (FET was good, but changed anyway).
Got 2v on the speaker outputs and the green light works, but thats it.
Could you check potentiometers resistance, they could go bad because of vibrations. Sub frequencies vibrate pcb and connection on potentiometer could go off.
If you don't have any burnt parts, try to check mentioned.
If you don't have any burnt parts, try to check mentioned.
Hi all, Thanks to this forum i managed to repair my 112SW with a 10watt 820 Ohm R39 and the cap in front C18. (burned off the pad of the positive lead in the process... crappy board)
Also replaced R39 in another subwoofer i have (115SW) although it was still working, but the resistor was half baked already.
Seeing this thread and my two sub amplifiers i'm sure that eventually every 112 and 115SW will meet this faith.
Klipsch MUST be aware of this, but they keep silent. I think they are in the business of few or no returning customers.
Also replaced R39 in another subwoofer i have (115SW) although it was still working, but the resistor was half baked already.
Seeing this thread and my two sub amplifiers i'm sure that eventually every 112 and 115SW will meet this faith.
Klipsch MUST be aware of this, but they keep silent. I think they are in the business of few or no returning customers.
The potentiometers seems fine... Clueless about what could be wrong here...
Maybe I put one of the caps the wrong way!?!?
Any points where I can check voltage/resistance?
Maybe I put one of the caps the wrong way!?!?
Any points where I can check voltage/resistance?
Switch from 230V to 110V - how to repair
Hi,
I pull the switch which changes the voltage settings for my Klipsch 115SW from 230V to 110V - here in Germany we have 230V. Maybe this was not my smartes decision ;-)
The subwoofer is dead now and I am curious if this could be repaired?
I opened the box and was looking for a kind of fuse to replace but didn‘t find one.
Do you have an idea?
Hi,
I pull the switch which changes the voltage settings for my Klipsch 115SW from 230V to 110V - here in Germany we have 230V. Maybe this was not my smartes decision ;-)
The subwoofer is dead now and I am curious if this could be repaired?
I opened the box and was looking for a kind of fuse to replace but didn‘t find one.
Do you have an idea?
Fuse is located near where the plug goes into - small blade screwdriver to remove and check - Only use the correct rated fuse size.
Make sure you installed the capacitors in the correct way (Polarity) and also make sure you did not break a trace or via - Use a meter to test all the connections. Check the fuse which is located near the plug - use a small blade screwdriver to remove the holder. Always use the correct size fuse.
Hello dear Klipsch users,
I am an electronics technician and have worked several years in repairing audio and video. Now I have a klipsch R-112SW wich belongs to my son and has the following problem :
By jumpering Power_On to 5V standby the unit works ...
So I think it is a problem in the control circuit. Has anyone a schematic for me or an idea how to solve this issue?
Many thanks in advance
I am an electronics technician and have worked several years in repairing audio and video. Now I have a klipsch R-112SW wich belongs to my son and has the following problem :
- switching on by audio signal does not work
- switsching on by manual is working, but the unit switches off after some seconds (in this time sub works fine)
By jumpering Power_On to 5V standby the unit works ...
So I think it is a problem in the control circuit. Has anyone a schematic for me or an idea how to solve this issue?
Many thanks in advance
Hi guys,
it seemed that the control circuit is triggered and switches the unit off. Does anybody know the value of the zener diode ZD7 ? This one is missing in the unit.
Many thanks
On the R-112sw, does anyone know what's causing the "thump" or slow heartbeat when it's ONLY plugged into the wall? Nothing else connected, just the power cord. If it's related to the same R39 caps issue, let me know. Thanks!