First off apologies if this is an already addressed question.
I'm looking to put all of my systems wall warts and power blocks into a single chassis, purely for aesthetic reasons. I'm not looking to do any filtering, surge protection, etc.
Is it kosher to have a standard iec inlet in the chassis that then feeds multiple standard duplex outlets inside? I've never seem it done, so there must be a good reason not too? Basically, it's a power distribution but with the AC outlets inside.
And then for the low volt outputs, there are a few paths, none too complicated.
Thoughts?
I'm looking to put all of my systems wall warts and power blocks into a single chassis, purely for aesthetic reasons. I'm not looking to do any filtering, surge protection, etc.
Is it kosher to have a standard iec inlet in the chassis that then feeds multiple standard duplex outlets inside? I've never seem it done, so there must be a good reason not too? Basically, it's a power distribution but with the AC outlets inside.
And then for the low volt outputs, there are a few paths, none too complicated.
Thoughts?
First, see if it is already available ready made.
If needed, make one, and unless required by local code, do not put an inlet socket, they can corrode and give loose contacts. Use direct connection.
Put a master circuit breaker in front, and a 140V or so 20mm diameter MOV as surge protection, and a 0.1 uF / 400v cap with a 10k ohm resistor in series across the mains in parallel, so they are both in action.
One protector is the MOV, and in parallel the R-C network.
Metal chassis, or heavy composite sheet / anything that can withstand a fire.
We get wiring boxes in plastic, different sizes with matching face plates, I just ask for the set, with matching sets of switches and sockets in the market, and do the assembly myself.
We have round pins on our plugs, and many power strips use flat metal strips for the contacts, after some repeated insert / withdrawal cycles I get loose contacts, which is irritating to dangerous, can damage computer SMPS for example.
See if you get to achieve the result you desire.
On box is for my computer, single switch with four sockets, CPU / display /amplifier/spare.
Another is next to my mother's bed, four switches and sockets, air bed / nebulizer / suction machine / mosquito repeller, connected to the wall socket with a plug, so that was the master switch.
I hope this helps.
If needed, make one, and unless required by local code, do not put an inlet socket, they can corrode and give loose contacts. Use direct connection.
Put a master circuit breaker in front, and a 140V or so 20mm diameter MOV as surge protection, and a 0.1 uF / 400v cap with a 10k ohm resistor in series across the mains in parallel, so they are both in action.
One protector is the MOV, and in parallel the R-C network.
Metal chassis, or heavy composite sheet / anything that can withstand a fire.
We get wiring boxes in plastic, different sizes with matching face plates, I just ask for the set, with matching sets of switches and sockets in the market, and do the assembly myself.
We have round pins on our plugs, and many power strips use flat metal strips for the contacts, after some repeated insert / withdrawal cycles I get loose contacts, which is irritating to dangerous, can damage computer SMPS for example.
See if you get to achieve the result you desire.
On box is for my computer, single switch with four sockets, CPU / display /amplifier/spare.
Another is next to my mother's bed, four switches and sockets, air bed / nebulizer / suction machine / mosquito repeller, connected to the wall socket with a plug, so that was the master switch.
I hope this helps.
I'm not really looking for something that fancy. Something like putting a normal power strip on the inside of a chassis.
Maybe that's my solution
Maybe that's my solution
Given that you may need special shape/length, would a wooden enclosure be easier to make than a metal one?
Probably not so much with this case, but I have used really nice cigar boxes or humidors for a finished look to begin with. Saved me a bunch of time. Look online to see what might be available in wooden boxes with a hinged top.
Found this off the net, no ties to seller.
Commonly sold here as MCB enclosure at mains inlet of houses.
These are again common, I put better quality switches and sockets than the assembled ones use, buying the boxes and parts separately, assembling and wiring them myself.
Again, I emphasize that these are random net images, no ties to the sellers.
Like I said, it is better to find a similar box in your local market, the MCB box was a random image posted by a Chinese seller.
It was just an example of what is available.
There is usually a wide variety available, so check out the range of sizes available, and choose one that suits your needs.
I am not familiar with the kind of breakers and codes required in your area, ask an electrical contractor / tradesman in the area, they will guide you better.
Or look on line for items shipped from inside the USA.
It was just an example of what is available.
There is usually a wide variety available, so check out the range of sizes available, and choose one that suits your needs.
I am not familiar with the kind of breakers and codes required in your area, ask an electrical contractor / tradesman in the area, they will guide you better.
Or look on line for items shipped from inside the USA.
There are quite a few benefits when using a metal casing connected to PE. Since SMPS are often powered on unattended 24/7 and the fact that most are cheap ones that like to go BOOM when no one is around wood for a casing in a possibly wooden house might be not the choice endorsed by fire fighters.
So metal it should be. When going the metal way it can be beneficial to add metal walls inside between each section to avoid EMI stray in on each other. This only when you are in the audio hobby to have best possible audio quality, otherwise don't bother.
It won’t hurt to measure temperature of each SMPS. Never assume! Maybe no certainly there is a need for some airflow. Inlets at the bottom and exhausts at the upper or upper back side. In case of doubt a fan switched on automatically above 40 degrees inside temperature can be a choice. Never use wall sockets of any kind inside, mount stuff so that it will be sturdy and while you are at it you could add filtering to make it kosher for audio. I used to have an IEC inlet in DIY distributors but today I see that to be unnecessary and have a cable and plug as there is no benefit in having a detachable cable for a power distributor since no one will think of replacing it when it is functioning like it should. Internal wiring should be done to good quality connector blocks. Make sure to have your design have both mains input, wall sockets/DC outputs/connectors and the mains fuse holder mounted at the backside so cabling is not seen and switch + pilot lamp at the front. There is an important benefit to have a sturdy mains switch to be able to switch all 24/7 powered on stuff off when going away. I was witness of the results of a few house fires caused by pretty innocent devices like Playstations. Besides that it is according local code here.
So metal it should be. When going the metal way it can be beneficial to add metal walls inside between each section to avoid EMI stray in on each other. This only when you are in the audio hobby to have best possible audio quality, otherwise don't bother.
It won’t hurt to measure temperature of each SMPS. Never assume! Maybe no certainly there is a need for some airflow. Inlets at the bottom and exhausts at the upper or upper back side. In case of doubt a fan switched on automatically above 40 degrees inside temperature can be a choice. Never use wall sockets of any kind inside, mount stuff so that it will be sturdy and while you are at it you could add filtering to make it kosher for audio. I used to have an IEC inlet in DIY distributors but today I see that to be unnecessary and have a cable and plug as there is no benefit in having a detachable cable for a power distributor since no one will think of replacing it when it is functioning like it should. Internal wiring should be done to good quality connector blocks. Make sure to have your design have both mains input, wall sockets/DC outputs/connectors and the mains fuse holder mounted at the backside so cabling is not seen and switch + pilot lamp at the front. There is an important benefit to have a sturdy mains switch to be able to switch all 24/7 powered on stuff off when going away. I was witness of the results of a few house fires caused by pretty innocent devices like Playstations. Besides that it is according local code here.
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Here's the mockup. Plan is to use the iec inlet with attached filter, i had one lying around. I'll cut the power strips cord, attach to iec with crimp connectors. Ground from iec goes to case. Ground from power cord goes to same spot on the case. I may have to mount the power strip so the outlets are horizontal. The DC outs will go through holes that have rubber grommets.
I may use a lighted switch on the front.
Do you think I should put a fuse in it?
I may use a lighted switch on the front.
Do you think I should put a fuse in it?
I would use a fine mesh in a frame as a front door, for ventilation, and keeping bugs out.
And the power strip: open it out, see the sockets are of good quality, or else do what I did, basically a wall outlet set in a conduit box. That will be more rugged and longer lived than a power strip.
And the power strip: open it out, see the sockets are of good quality, or else do what I did, basically a wall outlet set in a conduit box. That will be more rugged and longer lived than a power strip.
Fuse AND breaker, essential, no doubt of that.
Fuse in a location that allows easy replacement, put a fast or slow blow as per your judgement.
Lighted switch, or LED indicator, use what you like...
Solder and heat sleeve the strip wire instead of crimping, fast and no chance of crimp ageing.
Fuse in a location that allows easy replacement, put a fast or slow blow as per your judgement.
Lighted switch, or LED indicator, use what you like...
Solder and heat sleeve the strip wire instead of crimping, fast and no chance of crimp ageing.
I thought best practices dictated crimp on ac mains. It's the way I've always seen it on hundreds of builds here. And it's never soldered on home ac wiring, at least here in the US, although that will get into a debate of wire nut vs wago, which I don't care to engage.
A DIN rail with connector blocks is the usual way here. Very reliable. Quality stuff. Power strips and wire nuts are not OK for this purpose. Normally the PSUs are clamped with clamps to the casing. As written earlier (but no reaction) the casing will need either minimal ventilation or outright cooling vents both in the bottom and in the upper or back cover to have sufficient air flow. Only way to know what is needed is to dry run and measure temps. The reliability of the average wall wart/adapter/SMPS depends for a large part on the temperature. If it would be my distributor I would even use standard open frame PSU modules meant for case mounting.
A fuse is necessary. Always. Multiple fuses so per PSU can be done too but seems a bit overdone. On the other hand selectivity can be built in then. A switch is just clever to add in case you sometimes leave the home and stuff stays unattended. When stuff is not done right your insurance will have an issue with you when the house burns down. Usually these are of the precise type of people with little laissez faire mentality.
For a good and safe device the tip is to think what can go wrong and what the consequences can be. In case of different DC voltages but same jack plugs it is very handy to label the cables with the device names or the voltages. This to prevent 12V on a 5V device.
A fuse is necessary. Always. Multiple fuses so per PSU can be done too but seems a bit overdone. On the other hand selectivity can be built in then. A switch is just clever to add in case you sometimes leave the home and stuff stays unattended. When stuff is not done right your insurance will have an issue with you when the house burns down. Usually these are of the precise type of people with little laissez faire mentality.
For a good and safe device the tip is to think what can go wrong and what the consequences can be. In case of different DC voltages but same jack plugs it is very handy to label the cables with the device names or the voltages. This to prevent 12V on a 5V device.
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Contact blocks with springs to clamp the wires instead of screws are sold by many contact makers.
They claim better reliability, as screws may come loose, but springs do lose tension if they get hot.
I would add to the suggestion made by Jean-Paul, simply use different colors (computer SMPS style) for +5V (red) and +12V (yellow) for example, for the contact blocks.
One step up is to actually use open mesh style industrial SMPS (or LED drivers) in place of wall warts, that will be super reliable, as most wall warts are 5V and 12V these days, and less rugged build compared to SMPS.
Those have mesh used in the metal case for ventilation for use in enclosed spaces like machine enclosures, some even come with a tiny fan.
Also part of Jean-Paul's suggestions above.
You can even hack a computer PC-AT style SMPS for that purpose!
Those will give you plenty of juice, positive ventilation from fan and so on.
And that is like $7.50 here, gives 30A on the 5V rail, and more than 10A on the 12V rail, IIRC.
And supremely reliable in comparison to wall warts.
You will need to put a bell switch (or similar momentary action on-off switch), that should not be a big problem, on the outside face of the box, for the start signal.
They claim better reliability, as screws may come loose, but springs do lose tension if they get hot.
I would add to the suggestion made by Jean-Paul, simply use different colors (computer SMPS style) for +5V (red) and +12V (yellow) for example, for the contact blocks.
One step up is to actually use open mesh style industrial SMPS (or LED drivers) in place of wall warts, that will be super reliable, as most wall warts are 5V and 12V these days, and less rugged build compared to SMPS.
Those have mesh used in the metal case for ventilation for use in enclosed spaces like machine enclosures, some even come with a tiny fan.
Also part of Jean-Paul's suggestions above.
You can even hack a computer PC-AT style SMPS for that purpose!
Those will give you plenty of juice, positive ventilation from fan and so on.
And that is like $7.50 here, gives 30A on the 5V rail, and more than 10A on the 12V rail, IIRC.
And supremely reliable in comparison to wall warts.
You will need to put a bell switch (or similar momentary action on-off switch), that should not be a big problem, on the outside face of the box, for the start signal.
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