Preferable ways to lengthen a wire?

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Joined 2011
Simplest way is to use a similar piece of wire and strip both about an inch.
Then twist them together tightly, trying to keep the entire joint surface smooth.
Then solder and insulate with shrink tubing. I would use two layers of shrink tubing.
Kind of like the twisted helix splice here, but try to have no sharp ends sticking out at all.

 
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GM

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Joined 2003
Either type depending on the needs of the app, the critical part is using the correct UL/CSA crimping tool for the lug design, which historically was only sold at industrial supply houses, though last I noticed years ago the local NAPA had the proper automotive kits.
 
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GM

Member
Joined 2003
FYI/FWIW/IME (career/personal):

Bummer! From Wirefly (attached), note that this is anything but a true cold weld, i.e. with a naked eye we should see a ~ solid mass at the exit of the wire/lug joint; but in a low voltage app (<600V), history has proven that odds are it will be fine for most typical apps unless the joint is used/abused in a high volume assembly line app and/or the crimped joint isn't in a ~ continuous duty cycle such as a daily driver vehicle, etc.,

The many/various electrical problems me n' others have solved on various vehicle, construction, etc., friends, forums, etc., have by far been electrical connections with poor grounds being the majority; ditto in the industrial apps I've been 'up close and personal with', so at the least make sure you've got ~ 'bullet proof' connection joints by using the appropriate chemical to lube/vapor seal it or at least always have petroleum jelly or similar close at hand and if working in a very cold environment and/or want to keep folks from guessing what the @#$% you're using you can thin it using (tiny amounts) of (red) hydraulic brake fluid.

Unless industrial/'hard'/high silver content solder is used, best overall cost/performance wise to use UL/CSA, etc., wire nuts with appropriate lubricant suitable for the app.
 

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Can you not replace the wire with a longer wire from end to end?

If soldering, clean the flux properly later, residues are corrosive, that will cause trouble la few years after....

Personal choice is solder, with heat shrink, and if it is a heavy gauge in car use, another layer of fiber glass sleeve, as extra protection.
That is done after proper mechanical twisting, the solder is just to hold the wires together.
And I use restraint / brace if he wire is flexing in use, as in car engine sensor to bulkhead wires.

And yes, there are many options in car use.
You can also use a 'neutral link', or a screw in sleeve / block type connector, of you choose.
 
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"Self soldering" clear heat shrink joints.....only requires a hot air gun....:cool:

Or if you are really worried, tin both ends of wire, crimp in a straight joint crimp (both wires enter the same end leaving the other end to be visible to show the end of the wires).....& then apply a bit more heat & solder into the visible end of the crimp...
 
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