Hello All,
I have a PPI 6600.2 amp that I have been using for quite a few years now, but recently it started acting up. I want to fix it, since its allready installed and is such a great piece. It has started to continuously turn on and off on its own. I have read a few threads about the same problems but don't completely understand the repair procedure. I have soldering experience, volt/ohm meters, etc. I just need a little guidence and I think i could fix this thing. I live in a pretty remote area where there's no one here to repair this thing for me. If anyone can help please let me know! Thanks in advance.
I have a PPI 6600.2 amp that I have been using for quite a few years now, but recently it started acting up. I want to fix it, since its allready installed and is such a great piece. It has started to continuously turn on and off on its own. I have read a few threads about the same problems but don't completely understand the repair procedure. I have soldering experience, volt/ohm meters, etc. I just need a little guidence and I think i could fix this thing. I live in a pretty remote area where there's no one here to repair this thing for me. If anyone can help please let me know! Thanks in advance.
Disconnect all RCA cables and disconnect the speaker wires from the speaker terminals on the amp. Does it still switch on/off?
If the amp still switches on and off, you need to confirm that you have sufficient power supply voltage. With your multimeter set to DC volts, the black meter probe on the ground terminal of the amp (not on the point where the ground wire connected to the vehicle) and the head unit on (so the amp will have remote voltage applied), touch the red probe alternately to the B+ and remote terminals of the amp. If the voltage is below ~11 volts on either the B+ or remote line, you need to check the wiring feeding whichever line is too low. If 'both' the B+ and remote turn-on lines are low and your battery is fully charged, you may have a bad ground connection.
If the amp still switches on and off, you need to confirm that you have sufficient power supply voltage. With your multimeter set to DC volts, the black meter probe on the ground terminal of the amp (not on the point where the ground wire connected to the vehicle) and the head unit on (so the amp will have remote voltage applied), touch the red probe alternately to the B+ and remote terminals of the amp. If the voltage is below ~11 volts on either the B+ or remote line, you need to check the wiring feeding whichever line is too low. If 'both' the B+ and remote turn-on lines are low and your battery is fully charged, you may have a bad ground connection.
It likely has shorted output transistors. If you want to try to repair it yourself, you need to first read the Basic Car Audio Amp Repair page (link in sig file below).
If this amp uses the bottom cover to clamp the transistors to the heatsink, do NOT apply power to the amp with the bottom cover off of the amp unless instructed to do so.
If this amp uses the bottom cover to clamp the transistors to the heatsink, do NOT apply power to the amp with the bottom cover off of the amp unless instructed to do so.
Hey Perry, OK, I've located the output transistors iside the amp and yes they are the type that are clamped in by the bottom cover. I tested them all with the ohmeter like described in the link you gave me and I get anywhere from 00.0 to 0.650 on everyone except one or two of them. Any advice?
I just notice something weird to me. On the first transistor (top left of the picture) if i test between the first leg (left) and middle leg i get .675 and it continues to climb from there. If i hold it there it climbs from .675 to 1.5 in a matter of about 20sec. Does this sound right to you?
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