Hello fellow subholics.
I've recently upgrade my sub and added "1 f" hifonics xx cap. I've bought an used one. Worked like a charm. Past 2 months ive been using only on weekends. Disconnecting and not using on work days. Then i noticed that cap started to show voltage at 7,8 and so.. My amp dies below 10v so sub does not work. Then i ensured my connection, everything is rock solid. I get 12v rigth before amp, when i put my ignition on, which triggers remote... Voltage at amp terminals drops to 6.8 then jumps to 9, back to seven and stays unstable. I tried disconnecting cap and it did not helped. The strange thing is voltage may be at 12v sometimes, and after 1 hour or so drops to 7, stays there for few secs and then back to 12. After i put my ignition off, voltage at amp terminals goes back to 12. One thing i noticed, that i get some voltage, around 5v by using amp+ and amp metal frame around. Im not sure if that's allright.
I tried to dissasembly my amp, looked for anything worn off or something, noticed that a bit of plastic insulation damaged by screw... But that's all, all caps are shiny, fan spins like a charm. Maybe i might try using my amp on non conductive chasi, so i can chech if thats insulation problems. Anything besides like resistors and transistors are like new. Im surprised that stuff from 2004.12.24 looks like that after so many years. I've got some photos if anyone is intrested.
Maybe anyone might have a clue for this problem?
Sub is 4+4ohm jlw6v2 12" 600rms
Amp 600rms @ 2 ohm
I've recently upgrade my sub and added "1 f" hifonics xx cap. I've bought an used one. Worked like a charm. Past 2 months ive been using only on weekends. Disconnecting and not using on work days. Then i noticed that cap started to show voltage at 7,8 and so.. My amp dies below 10v so sub does not work. Then i ensured my connection, everything is rock solid. I get 12v rigth before amp, when i put my ignition on, which triggers remote... Voltage at amp terminals drops to 6.8 then jumps to 9, back to seven and stays unstable. I tried disconnecting cap and it did not helped. The strange thing is voltage may be at 12v sometimes, and after 1 hour or so drops to 7, stays there for few secs and then back to 12. After i put my ignition off, voltage at amp terminals goes back to 12. One thing i noticed, that i get some voltage, around 5v by using amp+ and amp metal frame around. Im not sure if that's allright.
I tried to dissasembly my amp, looked for anything worn off or something, noticed that a bit of plastic insulation damaged by screw... But that's all, all caps are shiny, fan spins like a charm. Maybe i might try using my amp on non conductive chasi, so i can chech if thats insulation problems. Anything besides like resistors and transistors are like new. Im surprised that stuff from 2004.12.24 looks like that after so many years. I've got some photos if anyone is intrested.
Maybe anyone might have a clue for this problem?
Sub is 4+4ohm jlw6v2 12" 600rms
Amp 600rms @ 2 ohm
That sounds like a power source (in the vehicle) problem. High resistance is in the 12v supply or ground cause the voltage to drop as the amp tries to draw current. The problem may be intermittent.
That sounds like a real deal. About 2 months ago, I did ground wire reconnecting, then sprayed a bit of paint on top of it. Paint might got around the screw making connection improper. Since i've got 2 meters of spare wire I should try to hook my amp directly to battery, that would ensure low resistance on wiring.
One thing to mention, amp transistor are close to aluminum plates which (I suspect) are to redistribute heat. Should I apply thermal grease on them?
What about voltage when reading it from "+" terminal and amp frame? Is that how it supposed to be?
Many thanks for Your response.
You find a known good ground (freshly scraped area. Place the black probe there and check voltage on both the B+ and ground terminals of the amp.
The B+ should read steady voltage near 12v. The ground terminal should not ever read more than a tiny fraction of a volt.
The transistors have metal clamps that hold them tightly down onto the heatsink. No heatsink compound needs to be applied to them but if you removed the transistors from the heatsink, I'd apply heatsink compound between the transistor and the insulator material before reassembling.
The B+ should read steady voltage near 12v. The ground terminal should not ever read more than a tiny fraction of a volt.
The transistors have metal clamps that hold them tightly down onto the heatsink. No heatsink compound needs to be applied to them but if you removed the transistors from the heatsink, I'd apply heatsink compound between the transistor and the insulator material before reassembling.
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