Hello everyone,
I am really struggling to find a replacement part for my SE Munro amp:-
https://www.soundonsound.com/reviews/se-electronics-munro-egg-150
I have a lot of noise on the Source selection switch (Main / Aux) , and discovered one of the 10 pins was lose, and then came away from the switch package completely. It seems to be a 2 position, I assume 2 Pole(?) rotary selection switch, but I just cannot find a suitable replacement:-
I have found 3,4,5 position - and 3 position could work I guess, but please could someone help me identify exactly what I am looking - i.e. how do I meter out the old switch to find out pin configuration and do I need to be looking for any specific attributes given its purpose is to switch between two stereo audio inputs, rating etc?
The throw is about 30 degrees, the shaft is a D-shape, with thread. 10 pins. The only markings on the switch is 'CTR' one side and '23' the other.
So questions are:-
Any help, advice or recommended places to search would be really appreciated - thanks!
Jerry
I am really struggling to find a replacement part for my SE Munro amp:-
https://www.soundonsound.com/reviews/se-electronics-munro-egg-150
I have a lot of noise on the Source selection switch (Main / Aux) , and discovered one of the 10 pins was lose, and then came away from the switch package completely. It seems to be a 2 position, I assume 2 Pole(?) rotary selection switch, but I just cannot find a suitable replacement:-
I have found 3,4,5 position - and 3 position could work I guess, but please could someone help me identify exactly what I am looking - i.e. how do I meter out the old switch to find out pin configuration and do I need to be looking for any specific attributes given its purpose is to switch between two stereo audio inputs, rating etc?
The throw is about 30 degrees, the shaft is a D-shape, with thread. 10 pins. The only markings on the switch is 'CTR' one side and '23' the other.
So questions are:-
- I have exhausted all the keywords I can think of, but I don't know I am describing the search correctly, e.g. "2 Position Rotary Selection Switch" - how do I specify it mounts at a 90 degree angle? And are there other search phrases that would yield better results?
- If I cannot find a 2 position - could I use a 3 position? e.g. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/126093504744
Any help, advice or recommended places to search would be really appreciated - thanks!
Jerry
This should be fairly simple to work out. Mostly, it's just a matter of finding with the same physical size and shape, so all you need to do is just pop the new one in the old hole, tighten the nut, then solder the connections and you're good to go. there's no special rating for audio switching.
If this is nonbalanced (RCA) input, you need a two pole/deck, two-position switch. Switches for this application need to be "break-before-make," meaning, there is a moment of non-connection as the switch goes from one position to the next to prevent two sources from being connected at the same time.
Get a good measurement of the shaft diameter and try to figure out if it's metric or not. This will narrow things down. If you don't have a caliper, you can wrap a strip of paper or tape around, straighten out (circumference), then divide by pi to get diameter.
From the look of it and the blue color, looks like it might be from a Japanese manufacturer, Alps. This should narrow things down a bit. In the US, Digi-Key or Mouser would be where I'd check. Unsure of UK options, though. There's lots of stuff on eBay, but sometimes you have to find a manufacturer's spec sheet to get all the details
You should be able to sort out what goes on which pin by eye--just observe which disconnected wire comes from "main" and which from "aux." the third (common) wire obviously leads to the amp/preamp board. The different decks are for left and right. Use a voltmeter on the new switch to find the common output wire that is switched from one output to another.
If you can't find the exact same switch, there are lots of ways of making a slightly different one work. I would say the most difficult to change physical parameters are the shaft diameter and the degrees between positions. A too-long shaft can always be cut down. There are multiple ways of re-indexing to get the knob aligned with the case markings. Yes, you can use a 3-position switch by just ignoring that extra position.
Hope this helps.
If this is nonbalanced (RCA) input, you need a two pole/deck, two-position switch. Switches for this application need to be "break-before-make," meaning, there is a moment of non-connection as the switch goes from one position to the next to prevent two sources from being connected at the same time.
Get a good measurement of the shaft diameter and try to figure out if it's metric or not. This will narrow things down. If you don't have a caliper, you can wrap a strip of paper or tape around, straighten out (circumference), then divide by pi to get diameter.
From the look of it and the blue color, looks like it might be from a Japanese manufacturer, Alps. This should narrow things down a bit. In the US, Digi-Key or Mouser would be where I'd check. Unsure of UK options, though. There's lots of stuff on eBay, but sometimes you have to find a manufacturer's spec sheet to get all the details
You should be able to sort out what goes on which pin by eye--just observe which disconnected wire comes from "main" and which from "aux." the third (common) wire obviously leads to the amp/preamp board. The different decks are for left and right. Use a voltmeter on the new switch to find the common output wire that is switched from one output to another.
If you can't find the exact same switch, there are lots of ways of making a slightly different one work. I would say the most difficult to change physical parameters are the shaft diameter and the degrees between positions. A too-long shaft can always be cut down. There are multiple ways of re-indexing to get the knob aligned with the case markings. Yes, you can use a 3-position switch by just ignoring that extra position.
Hope this helps.
Thank you both for the replies!
This looks hopeful:- Alps series SRBM thanks Moose.
And Buck, you've saved the day as you highlighted that I do actually need Balanced inputs (Balanced Main and unbalanced RCA Aux) - so that would need 3 pole?
This looks hopeful:- Alps series SRBM thanks Moose.
And Buck, you've saved the day as you highlighted that I do actually need Balanced inputs (Balanced Main and unbalanced RCA Aux) - so that would need 3 pole?
I thought maybe with the number of pins on that switch, it might be.
I'm not an expert at balanced inputs except for what's obvious: each balanced channel has three wires, not two. On your amp, this is only on the "main" input; the "aux" just has two plus ground.
Maybe someone with more experience can toss in their thoughts.
I'm not an expert at balanced inputs except for what's obvious: each balanced channel has three wires, not two. On your amp, this is only on the "main" input; the "aux" just has two plus ground.
Maybe someone with more experience can toss in their thoughts.
Is there a keyword or term to describe the package, i.e. soldered pins at 90 degrees to the actuator?
Can you locate it here?:
https://www.mouser.com/c/electromechanical/switches/rotary-switches/?m=Alps Alpine&series=SRBM
Once you have a specific part number, you can search possible suppliers. The big components suppliers have tools to help you sort your search. If I were you, I'd get a voltmeter on this to see what the configuration inside is, which may help you search. Since there are only two decks, one must have more than one pole to accommodate the three-wire balanced main input.
If you don't have a voltmeter (VOM), you will never regret the purchase. They are fundamental for any kind of repair or other DIY project. Not expensive, as a rule.
FYI, whether the pins are at right angles or parallel to the shaft is irrelevant unless it's soldered directly to a circuit board or the space behind the front panel is extremely tight.
https://www.mouser.com/c/electromechanical/switches/rotary-switches/?m=Alps Alpine&series=SRBM
Once you have a specific part number, you can search possible suppliers. The big components suppliers have tools to help you sort your search. If I were you, I'd get a voltmeter on this to see what the configuration inside is, which may help you search. Since there are only two decks, one must have more than one pole to accommodate the three-wire balanced main input.
If you don't have a voltmeter (VOM), you will never regret the purchase. They are fundamental for any kind of repair or other DIY project. Not expensive, as a rule.
FYI, whether the pins are at right angles or parallel to the shaft is irrelevant unless it's soldered directly to a circuit board or the space behind the front panel is extremely tight.
Usually switches or pots that have right angle soldered points are labeled "PCB mount" at the very least.