Hi,
my Name ist Mat and I am new here and hope someone can help me to connect my Philips Variac type 2422 530 23411 the right way.
My question, where I have to connect the mains and where the variable output?
I think the left side is input and the right side ist output (the top screw in the middle and the right screw on the bottom) I am right?
Thank you so much for help.
Have a nice weekend!
Cheers,
Mat
my Name ist Mat and I am new here and hope someone can help me to connect my Philips Variac type 2422 530 23411 the right way.
My question, where I have to connect the mains and where the variable output?
I think the left side is input and the right side ist output (the top screw in the middle and the right screw on the bottom) I am right?
Thank you so much for help.
Have a nice weekend!
Cheers,
Mat
You have the advantage in having it in front of you but none of those screws look like terminals to me.
I've found this but I think you are going to have to open it up:
https://swiss-trafo.ch/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/Datenblatt_2422.530.23411.pdf?form=MG0AV3
You should be able to identify terminals by means of resistance checks. T is the moving carbon brush wiper, L and N I assume are live and neutral and K and M I think will be fixed output tapping's with one giving perhaps 20% increase over incoming mains voltage..
I've found this but I think you are going to have to open it up:
https://swiss-trafo.ch/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/Datenblatt_2422.530.23411.pdf?form=MG0AV3
You should be able to identify terminals by means of resistance checks. T is the moving carbon brush wiper, L and N I assume are live and neutral and K and M I think will be fixed output tapping's with one giving perhaps 20% increase over incoming mains voltage..
Appears this is your layout.
Adding a fuse at both the AC line input, and at the wiper output, is highly recommended.
Variacs can be easily damaged from over current, especially the wiper.
Adding a fuse at both the AC line input, and at the wiper output, is highly recommended.
Variacs can be easily damaged from over current, especially the wiper.
Sometimes it is difficult to identify the taps by resistance metering, but this is a 2,5 A variac Phillips/Filec ( the model lives on under other names obviously) so it is doable if you have a good meter.
The connections with the highest resistance is the outermost and I would recommend to connect these to the mains. The variac will then give you 0-100% of mains voltage.
It is possible to connect to the inner winding connections and then use it as a boost, giving up to 260V.
If you have low voltage AC output transformer, hook it up to two of the connectors (not the ground one) at the corners and measure the output voltage between one of the terminals and all the other connections.
Turn the handle and remeasure and you will find the wiper connector. I guess it is the center one.
The really cumbersome way is to remove the cover and try to follow the cables internally.
First you need to remover the knob, which is done by holding the knob with your hand and unscrew the center scrwe counterclockwise. When the clamping holding the knob on the shaft is loose you can lift of the knob (remember the position) and continue to remove the screws on the lower sides of the cover and just lift this off
Do all this whith the variac on a stable surface.
Could be a good idea to do this anyhow to check on the carbon brush for signs of wear. I have had a couple of variacs wheree the brush was run down almost to metal.
The connections with the highest resistance is the outermost and I would recommend to connect these to the mains. The variac will then give you 0-100% of mains voltage.
It is possible to connect to the inner winding connections and then use it as a boost, giving up to 260V.
If you have low voltage AC output transformer, hook it up to two of the connectors (not the ground one) at the corners and measure the output voltage between one of the terminals and all the other connections.
Turn the handle and remeasure and you will find the wiper connector. I guess it is the center one.
The really cumbersome way is to remove the cover and try to follow the cables internally.
First you need to remover the knob, which is done by holding the knob with your hand and unscrew the center scrwe counterclockwise. When the clamping holding the knob on the shaft is loose you can lift of the knob (remember the position) and continue to remove the screws on the lower sides of the cover and just lift this off
Do all this whith the variac on a stable surface.
Could be a good idea to do this anyhow to check on the carbon brush for signs of wear. I have had a couple of variacs wheree the brush was run down almost to metal.
The layout in the photo of post #4 seems to be correct. This should be standardized for all the Philips Variacs.
https://bitsavers.computerhistory.o...6_C08_Philips_Variable_Mains_Transformers.pdf
page 50/144 (or 41 on the actual page) has the official schematic and specs of 2422 530 23411
So no more guessing.
page 50/144 (or 41 on the actual page) has the official schematic and specs of 2422 530 23411
So no more guessing.
I wonder the what the no load current is on a variac. Any reason a DBT couldn't be used to sort it all out safely?
Thank you for that document!
I have a couple of Filec / Phillips variacs rated 23Amps. I have of course since long identified the taps, but I have searched for actual spare parts number for the brushes since one or two are damaged ( replaced by dummies and derating, whatever you need 15Amps for...)
No load current depends on the magnetising current. It is not that small for variacs, as compared to a well sized EI or a toroid transformer for that matter. Say a couple of hundred milliamps at max.
My 23A draws about 250 mA. I have smaller (rated 1amp) that draw neglible amounts .
I have an insulated 3 Amp that also draws about 50mA.
Then the internal short made by the brush over adjacent turns also contributes to some no load current.
I noticed that one of my variacs started to make more of a hum and yes, the brush was covering 3-4 turns.
Not that it was damaged, but still it was drawing current of ocurse.
What is a DBT?
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DBT, a bulb tester like we use for fixing amps. Even a high wattage like a 250 or 500 watt halogen should protect a variac from damage due to incorrect connection while figuring out the layout.
Ah, I use that to test smaller variacs. Due to the larger idle/magnetising current for say a 10 Amp variac it might light up the bulbs regardless if it is shorted or not.
I made one where you parallell up to four bulbs to compensate for this.
But most of the time I use my insulated 3A with V/I meters to test unknown transformers of any kind. But it is a catch 22, you need a variac to test a variac...
I made one where you parallell up to four bulbs to compensate for this.
But most of the time I use my insulated 3A with V/I meters to test unknown transformers of any kind. But it is a catch 22, you need a variac to test a variac...
Mat, could you post another picture, this time taken more from the right looking in at an angle to better capture the label to the right of the terminals? Based on what I can see of it, it appears that the bottom most center screw is the earth ground, and the two just above and to its left and right are the winding ends. The topmost one is the wiper, and the two below and to its left and right are likely taps on the main part of the winding. I know US made variacs typically have such taps as they allow the unit to output voltage greater than the line voltage - e.g. the US ones are typically tapped such that with 120 Vac in, the extreme end of the winding is at 140 Vac.
This example of one made by Superior Electric in the US has provisions for four taps on its terminal block, but in actuality only uses the ones marked 6 and 7:
Hope this helps.
-Pat
This example of one made by Superior Electric in the US has provisions for four taps on its terminal block, but in actuality only uses the ones marked 6 and 7:
Hope this helps.
-Pat
Does the voltage scale turn with the knob, with the reference a mark on the enclosure, or is it fixed to the housing and the knob has the pointer? I can’t tell if you turn the knob clockwise to go from zero to max or counterclockwise - it looks like the scale is stationary, so it’s CCW to go from 0-260. Is that the case?
-Pat
-Pat
I think the pinout is shown on the label:
The middle pin is probably chassis (as shown in the schematic).
Easiest is just to take the cover off and follow the connections.
Second best is to measure the resistance of the winding with a multimeter.
edit: unfortunately the mechanical drawings in the datasheets above can't help us either for this particular model.... 🙁
edit2: an output fuse is still missing as well
The middle pin is probably chassis (as shown in the schematic).
Easiest is just to take the cover off and follow the connections.
Second best is to measure the resistance of the winding with a multimeter.
edit: unfortunately the mechanical drawings in the datasheets above can't help us either for this particular model.... 🙁
edit2: an output fuse is still missing as well
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You're welcome! 🙂
But please, do a visual inspection first, don't assume these connections just yet!
Also, unless you're planning to run devices on higher voltages, I would probably use the NK connection.
This seems to be 1:1 with the output, while the other other could give you an higher output.
On the other hand, that also gives you the ability to compensate for some voltage drop.
Just a general comment; VARIACS are limited by current.
So for example from a practical point of view, keep in mind that at 115VAC you're only left with 2.5*115=287.5W
Some people fall into the trick thinking they bough a 575W VARIAC and can load devices with a lower voltage also at that power.
That's also why there is a 2.5A fuse in there.
I personally like to use a auto switch fuse that pops out in an overload condition with some kind of LED indicator or so.
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