I've just registered on this forum so please forgive any errors in procedure in my request for help.
I have a CD880 and a good while ago it seemed to require some time from switching on to read a disc. I thought that perhaps a deteriorating component needed some warm-up time. The problem got so bad that I decided to leave the machine switched on all the time. Eventually, this approach failed and it ceased to read a disc at all. Somewhere, I have seen a reference to replacing the 33uF capacitor on the pcb on the underside of the disc mechanism as being a possible solution. I have gained access to that capacitor and would like advice on the specification of any suitable replacement; 33uF, yes, but what else should I be aware of - voltage rating or build type, for example?
Grateful for any advice to keep this vintage device alive, which can include other possible solutions to the problem in case the capacitor change fails to do the trick.
I have a CD880 and a good while ago it seemed to require some time from switching on to read a disc. I thought that perhaps a deteriorating component needed some warm-up time. The problem got so bad that I decided to leave the machine switched on all the time. Eventually, this approach failed and it ceased to read a disc at all. Somewhere, I have seen a reference to replacing the 33uF capacitor on the pcb on the underside of the disc mechanism as being a possible solution. I have gained access to that capacitor and would like advice on the specification of any suitable replacement; 33uF, yes, but what else should I be aware of - voltage rating or build type, for example?
Grateful for any advice to keep this vintage device alive, which can include other possible solutions to the problem in case the capacitor change fails to do the trick.
Welcome to diyAudio 🙂
The 33uF is common across the Phillips range. Its an 'odd' value these days and a more common 47uF 16 volt should be fine. It is just a standard cooking grade electrolytic.
The 33uF is common across the Phillips range. Its an 'odd' value these days and a more common 47uF 16 volt should be fine. It is just a standard cooking grade electrolytic.
I will speak from experience.
The CD880 is an excellent CD player but it is complex and requires a real technical approach.
All solder on all PCBs must be remelted, particular attention must be paid to the power supply section.
Most high capacity capacitors are of excellent quality, the smallest values (notably low voltages between 6.3 and 16v) standard may require replacement or inspection.
You must put thermal paste on the regulators and transistors in contact with the rear heatsink and add small heatsinks on the regulators which do not have any original (7905/7805).
It is a CDM1 MKII, certainly one of the best mechanics of this generation which suffers from very few faults, you just have to check the small supporting part of the brushless spindle motor axis.
If you are not ready and/or do not have the real skills to undertake this work, entrust it to a professional, it would be a shame to massacre this wonderful reader which is becoming more and more rare.
The CD880 is an excellent CD player but it is complex and requires a real technical approach.
All solder on all PCBs must be remelted, particular attention must be paid to the power supply section.
Most high capacity capacitors are of excellent quality, the smallest values (notably low voltages between 6.3 and 16v) standard may require replacement or inspection.
You must put thermal paste on the regulators and transistors in contact with the rear heatsink and add small heatsinks on the regulators which do not have any original (7905/7805).
It is a CDM1 MKII, certainly one of the best mechanics of this generation which suffers from very few faults, you just have to check the small supporting part of the brushless spindle motor axis.
If you are not ready and/or do not have the real skills to undertake this work, entrust it to a professional, it would be a shame to massacre this wonderful reader which is becoming more and more rare.
