I have been reading about Phil Short's crossover mod for the Tannoy dual concentric ceramic magnet 3828 drivers here. They used the same crossover as the HPD drivers, but the characteristics of the tweeter were a bit different.
http://www.hilberink.nl/codehans/tannoy53.htm
Has anyone done this mod without building a whole new crossover? If so how? The article says:
"
I have found that using just the 4mH main winding to feed the HF
compresion driver and not using the step up tapping considerably
improves the HF sound quality.
"
It then recommends building a whole new crossover. I only have the opportunity to do this if I can modify the original crossover. If anyone has done this I'd be interested in exactly what you did.
http://www.hilberink.nl/codehans/tannoy53.htm
Has anyone done this mod without building a whole new crossover? If so how? The article says:
"
I have found that using just the 4mH main winding to feed the HF
compresion driver and not using the step up tapping considerably
improves the HF sound quality.
"
It then recommends building a whole new crossover. I only have the opportunity to do this if I can modify the original crossover. If anyone has done this I'd be interested in exactly what you did.
Last edited:
I'd like to bump this, I've been thinking about this again. I have a chance to trade my HPD berkeley for ones with the 3828.
If anyone has built the crossover from scratch I'd like to hear about that too.
If anyone has built the crossover from scratch I'd like to hear about that too.
From scratch
I build the crossover in 2011 for my 3839's and very happy with the result .
I used slightly different values from this website Filton Acoustics --
some pictures attached .
Cheers ,
Rens
I build the crossover in 2011 for my 3839's and very happy with the result .
I used slightly different values from this website Filton Acoustics --
some pictures attached .
Cheers ,
Rens
Attachments
I'd like to try this with the MiniDSP and two amps, one a SS amp for the woof and one tube amp for the highs.
I priced out a good crossover last year for a project I was building and the cost of good components was more than the MiniDSP.
I priced out a good crossover last year for a project I was building and the cost of good components was more than the MiniDSP.
Nice!
Did you buy the inductors or build them yourself?
Have you ever compared these to HPD drivers with the Tannoy crossover?
There's prebuilt crossovers on ebay for GBP 220-275.
To anyone who has built these, what was your parts cost?
To anyone who has built these, what was your parts cost?
I build mine with high quality components for around Au$ 250.00 ( including shipping from US and UK ) that's roughly 150 pounds
I bought the inductors . If I dig deep maybe I can find out where I bought them and the rest !
Cheers ,
Rens
I finally have the 3828 Berkeleys in my setup for a test drive. Customs held the foams for 1.5 months!
I'll play around with them in stock form for a bit and see what I think. I have the 3828 Berkeleys and the HPD Berkeley. One pair will be sent on its way, one will stay. So far I think the 3828 have more punch.
I'll play around with them in stock form for a bit and see what I think. I have the 3828 Berkeleys and the HPD Berkeley. One pair will be sent on its way, one will stay. So far I think the 3828 have more punch.
The 3828 drivers have better bass definition and a larger sweet spot, but can indeed be fatiguing. The HPD sound smoother but the bass is on the slow and lazy side.
Now to figure out the best way to get the improved crossovers in these things. I've emailed filton electronics, the place doctordata suggested above, to see what their crossover costs.
I'll build them myself if I can find a good way to measure them so the crossover points are exact.
Now to figure out the best way to get the improved crossovers in these things. I've emailed filton electronics, the place doctordata suggested above, to see what their crossover costs.
I'll build them myself if I can find a good way to measure them so the crossover points are exact.
Last edited:
I asked a guy I know (Leestereo) about building this crossover and he pointed out that the DCR is not given for the inductors, and this info is needed.
Does anyone have this information?
Does anyone have this information?
As I said I'd join the Tannoy Yahoo group.
That way you could just ask other members like Phil Short.
That way you could just ask other members like Phil Short.
I've seen them, but they are very expensive.
I have joined that group. I haven't got any answers about the DCR yet, although I've been made aware that the inductor value for the woofer is wrong. Haven't heard from Phil Short yet.
in general - Rdc of series inductivity for bass is always lowest possible
so , either big air choke with 1.6mm dia wire or decent iron choke
regarding value of bass choke - 1.2mH is about right
do not believe in every dilemma posted on web
so , either big air choke with 1.6mm dia wire or decent iron choke
regarding value of bass choke - 1.2mH is about right
do not believe in every dilemma posted on web
Everyone on the mailing list said it was supposed to be 2.7mH, it seemed to be agreed upon. The original crossover uses that value too.
Can you post schematic of original crossover ? all I can find ( and there are lots of them !) use 1.2 mH and that's a big difference !
Cheers ,
Rens
well , I'm also in Tann group and I know the place ..... and I frankly wasn't aware of mass agreement for 2.7 vs. 1.2mH
same as I know difference with 1.2mH vs. 2.7 , both in sound and in simulations , with my K3808 in various boxing arrangements
read this : MG15-problem
from my experience , it is definitely cleaner sounding with 1.2mh in series and RC (6R8 + 30uF) across the speaker
see here : tannoy xover | Search Results | Zen Mod Blog
- Status
- Not open for further replies.