anyone build a subwoofer with this new aluminium woofer from peerless ?
I want to build a subwoofer with this unit which I already have
in winSD it gifs some good result in a reflex loaded system
in a 63 liter enclosure and a 4 inch port gives a fb 26 hz
looks good to me http://www.tymphany.com/files/products/pdf/830951.pdf
I want to build a subwoofer with this unit which I already have
in winSD it gifs some good result in a reflex loaded system
in a 63 liter enclosure and a 4 inch port gives a fb 26 hz
looks good to me http://www.tymphany.com/files/products/pdf/830951.pdf
Attachments
No experience with that driver, but I'd expect it to be similar to the other XLS drivers which are excellent. I've seen their distortion measured on another forum, and they hold up very well to any other driver you can get. Within their limits they seem to perform significantly better on distortion tests than much more expensive drivers.
thanks for the reply, i do know the xls10 woofer and use it in the other project with 2 Passive radiators in 31 ltr
I saw the xxls10 with aluminum cone but cannot find any project or subwoofer using this woofer
I still want to go for a reflex loaded system as this gave good results in the simulations
I saw the xxls10 with aluminum cone but cannot find any project or subwoofer using this woofer
I still want to go for a reflex loaded system as this gave good results in the simulations
I'd most likely tune it at 20 Hz and play around with the box volume. Are you using WinISD pro? It's a good one to use as it allows you to model with all the filters, and see all that you need to see. I'd also use Collo's vent flare calculator to check the vent won't chuff.
yes i use winISD pro
tuning to about 24 hz gives great result in a 60-65 liter enclosure
I will use a vent with 4 "diameter, but this results in a very long vent, about 23 inches
tuning to about 24 hz gives great result in a 60-65 liter enclosure
I will use a vent with 4 "diameter, but this results in a very long vent, about 23 inches
Sometimes it pays to enlarge the box to keep vent length down. You have to do quite a bit of tweaking, balancing different parameters. Also keep in mind that a lower tuning will also tend to lower vent velocity.
It's worth flaring both ends of the vent, and paying some attention to this aspect of the design. At xmax at the low end of the passband you will likely have problems with an unflared 4" vent. Unflared it will chuff at low velocity. Again, I recommend looking at Collo's calculator.
Ideally you should shoot for no more than 25m/s vent velocity and use a flare sufficiently large to handle this velocity without adding chuffing. The calculator will allow you to determine this.
It's worth flaring both ends of the vent, and paying some attention to this aspect of the design. At xmax at the low end of the passband you will likely have problems with an unflared 4" vent. Unflared it will chuff at low velocity. Again, I recommend looking at Collo's calculator.
Ideally you should shoot for no more than 25m/s vent velocity and use a flare sufficiently large to handle this velocity without adding chuffing. The calculator will allow you to determine this.
the vent was intended to be a least 4 " and with flares at both sides of it
maybe the lower tuning frequence will give some better results
in progress this weekend
maybe the lower tuning frequence will give some better results
in progress this weekend
- Status
- Not open for further replies.