Peavey FH-1 or similar style bass bins

[pinkelephant]

Hey guys! I came across this forum while trying to improve my PA system. Right now my highs and mids are handled by a pair of either Peavey PR15s or Kustom KPC12s (though the Kustom woofers were replaced with Peavey 12" woofers). The bass is handled by an old Peavey 215C "Precision Transducer" with a similar design to the old TriFlex system Peavey used to offer (though the TriFlex came with a 2x12 woofer, not a 215). The current amp setup is a Peavey M-2600 to stereo mains, and a Peavey M-3000 to the bass (I realize that box may not technically qualify as a SUB-woofer.) [And yes, I realize that my system is very underpowered, but I provided PA service for a large company picnic awhile back, outdoors, with just the M-3000 and a pair of SP-2s, and had no complaints. I will be upgrading the amps soon.]

I'm thinking of parting out the 215C and using it to build a pair of folded-horn bass bins. I'd love to copy the Peavey FH-1s. I heard a setup at a concert awhile back with a pair of vintage SP-2As and a pair of FH-1s, and the sound was incredible. I'll be the first to admit that going the DIY route was not my first plan; I would have preferred to buy a pair of empty FH-1 cabs and reload it with my existing speakers.

After digging around a bit, I've come up empty. I've got a friend who is competent with woodworking tools and is looking for an extra job or two. If I can find the PLANS for an FH-1 or similar, I'll probably have him build me a pair. I found plenty of other plans, including the Cerwin-Vega Earthquake 36, which has an 18" woofer. I'd prefer to find plans customized for 15"s, so I can use the speakers I have. (I know little to nothing about folded-horn designs...is it possible to scale the 18" plans for a 15", or should I just build it as is and simply load it with the smaller one?)

Bill Fitzmaurice's plans look excellent, but I'm concerned they would be too big to haul for events and shows that I play. The FH-1 is a monster, but at least I can get it in and out of the van. (I provide DJ services for weddings and company events; many of these events handle quite nicely with just the PR-15s, but I like having the capability to crank out some low end if need be.)

thanks for your help, guys!
Josh

 

[mike james 533]

I have 4 of those FH-1 Peavey's, loaded with 15's. They are a bear to move, I hate them. Do a search for W bins and you should find some plans. They only play down to about 70hz.

I just ordered 4 of these ( MCM Custom Audio 15'' PA / DJ Speaker Subwoofer 700W | 555-10320 (55510320) | MCM Custom Audio ) and reloaded them with 3015lf's. They are lite and small. Very easy to pick up one in each hand and carry. I am happy with the output after upgrading to the 3015lf's. You can use source code C21A02 to get the price down to $48.99 each.

Oh and I just burned the 2 BFM 24" Titan 48" that I built. They were way to big to move around and I wasn't happy with the performance. They made for a nice hotdog roast though.

Hope this helps,
Mike

 

[pinkelephant]

Wow...burned the BFM Titan? I looked at the Titan and Tuba designs; they just look like a bear to haul, but the specs looked nice. I'll look at the MCM link you posted. I didn't know MCM did pro audio. Dad used to be in electronics repair, and MCM was a major supplier for transistors and belts and such.

That's been my other thought....find a pair of 15" PA cabinets with blown components and just load them with the subs.

On the note of pro audio subs...has anyone here tried the Peavey PR-SUB? It basically looks like a PR-15 minus the tweeter. As I said before, I use the PR-15s for my mains and I love them. They sound great and they're a breeze to load and unload and put on the stands. An injection-molded-cabinet sub would be super light, but I'm not sure how much the cabinet brings to the sound.

In other words, here's my options, all with the same woofer in them...

Peavey PR-SUB,
MCM 15" (or other 1x15" direct cabinet) reloaded with the Peavey Black Widow 15"
or FH-1-type folded horn. If I build one (or two), I would definitely put casters, recessed handles, and a pole socket in each one. I hauled the 215C up a flight of stairs, once...never again. THAT sucker is a bear to move. That's another reason I want to split it up. Two single 15"s, even in FH-1 or SP-1 cabs, would be easier to manhandle than that 215.

The FH-1s are going to be a bear to move, but for big outdoor shows they'd be a lot of fun. A direct 15" cab on each side might not be any response improvement over the 215 in the middle. The PR-SUB would be a breeze to move, but again...not sure how much the cabinet contributes to the sound. I HAVE heard complaints on other forums about injection-molded cabinets vs. wood, but the PR-15s are so much easier to move than the SP-2As, that I can EQ in some compensation, to save my back.

 

[mike james 533]

Yep, I burned them! And I am not the only one to do so. Jbell who also posts on this fourm also toasted his. From 40hz to 100hz the Titan 48 is down 13 db. I learned that I like flat to 40hz much better. lol

I still use my Otop 12's. I like them real well but the high's tend to get a little harsh when pushed. They have the meld array. I think I'll try a compression driver in them.

I also thought about the PR 15 subs. But I was affraid that I would need 4 or more to get out of them what I need db wise. And 4 at $239.99 each was out of my price range vs $197 for 4 of MCM's. I already had the 3015lf speakers.

We have wheels on our 4 FH-1's also. They are still a bear to move. They add alot of weight to our trailer and take up quite a bit of space too. I like moving the little subs much better. My back likes them so much more.

What ever way you decide to go, good luck.

Mike

 

[jbell]

Hey mike, interesting way to get a 'premade' ported box for your 3015lf's....

I just did another pair of the HS12 cabinets with 16ohm selenium's and 12" dayton wave guides.... Interesting results


And yes, [email protected] is the perfect recipe for roasting....

 

[mike james 533]

Hey Jim. My health hasn't been the best and I needed some small, easy to carry subs fast. With winter coming I thought it best to grab the MCM cabs and reload. I'm still going to build the single sheet TH's. This just bought me some time since my workshop is outdoors.

Can't wait to hear more about your HS 12's. Have you had problems with your meld arrays on your other tops being harsh? Having trouble with them on my Otops?

Mike

 

[jbell]

Hey Jim. My health hasn't been the best and I needed some small, easy to carry subs fast. With winter coming I thought it best to grab the MCM cabs and reload. I'm still going to build the single sheet TH's. This just bought me some time since my workshop is outdoors.

Can't wait to hear more about your HS 12's. Have you had problems with your meld arrays on your other tops being harsh? Having trouble with them on my Otops?

Mike

you running the bfm piezo 'crossover' or just a series piezo resistor and inductor for the woofer? I know it was almost kicking and screaming... but I give it to BF, the crossover does help in the piezo harshness department. By boosting some 3-5k, it makes the 8.5k monstrous spike not so bad. Now that extremely narrow vertical dispersion in a short throw situation like you have.... hmmm... that's tough. You either get an ear full 'o piezo, or no high end at all.... Only suggestion on that is always running 2 otops per side, and angling down the upper box. And your feedback generating port/handles? you doing ok with them?

I perfectly understand on the ported 3015lf boxes, In your shoes I would have probably done the same. Hope your health improves quickly... good health makes the music that much more fun.

 

[pinkelephant]

I don't always need the big dogs...I found a pair of FH-1 cabs cheap, so I'm likely to go ahead and build them. For smaller DJ gigs, I can stick with just the PR-15s, or borrow my church's SP-2s (again, massive cabinets, but still smaller than the FH-1s.)

 

[mike james 533]

Hey Pinkelephant, that is your quickest fix, finding the FH-1. Hope they work out great for you. We put 4" wheels on our FH-1's. Not big enough imho. I think my daughter is going to put on 8" wheels from Harbor Freight. She uses them for her rock band. The MCM 3015lf subs are for our DJ business.

Jim, mine has the series piezo resistor and inductor for the woofer. They are very clear sounding but the highs are harsh. Everyone on the dance floor avoids being in front of them. Thinking about trying a ASD1001 and a Goldwood GM-500PB horn. What do you think about that idea Jim?

Mike

 

[pinkelephant]

Those MCM cabinets look really nice...I think I might get a pair later on and load them with something a bit more durable than stock (I know pure audiophiles scream sometimes, but I actually like Peavey products, so I may go with the BW 15"s). In a three-way configuration for BIG shows, I can run them as mids. For smaller gigs, I can haul them out as subs, and stick with the 2-way configuration.

I'm just getting started with some DIY stuff...I've been kind of a pro audio buff for years. (Funny moment...I was watching an early '80s video tape from our old church, and when the camera panned, I saw that the mains in that building were a pair of Kustom Tuck-n-Roll cabinets. My first thought was...wonder where those things wound up?)

 

[jbell]

Hey Pinkelephant, that is your quickest fix, finding the FH-1. Hope they work out great for you. We put 4" wheels on our FH-1's. Not big enough imho. I think my daughter is going to put on 8" wheels from Harbor Freight. She uses them for her rock band. The MCM 3015lf subs are for our DJ business.

Jim, mine has the series piezo resistor and inductor for the woofer. They are very clear sounding but the highs are harsh. Everyone on the dance floor avoids being in front of them. Thinking about trying a ASD1001 and a Goldwood GM-500PB horn. What do you think about that idea Jim?

Mike

Personally I'm not a asd1001 fan.... I know, bf says otherwise... Your cheapest option is to put a very tight notch eq at 8.5hkz at about -8db, the next cheapest option is to do the piezo crossover. After that, I'd go selenium and goldwood if you are going to stack otops, or dayton waveguide if you are not. Both the goldwood and dayton benefit from a triangle shaped 'reflector' of sorts vertically in the middle of the horn to avoid a HF 'hotspot' when directly on axis.

Since you currently have the piezo arrays, I'd suggest the piezo crossover as the path of least resistance and most benefit.