I bought these recently from you know where, and testing them with the PEAK Atlas DCA55, I got the following readings....
hFE: "23"... "58"... "103"... "108"........... so I decided to open the "23"....
hFE: "23"... "58"... "103"... "108"........... so I decided to open the "23"....
Fake, but they probably work to a degree. It’s missing the heat spreader coin, the die is about 150 W, but the emitter bond wire is only good for maybe 10A. 3503 is supposed to be good for 30A. But not much voltage, and pretty miserable second breakdown ratings. They would do better than most fakes.
seller's response........I haven't mentioned that I hacked one of them up, but he'll know soon enough.
Hello,
Thank you for reaching out. I m sorry to hear you cannot use these parts. They were ordered from a trusted US supplier many years ago and are original parts to my knowledge. This is the first I am hearing of any issues with them, however I will look into the matter. In the meantime you can open a return case where a return shipping label will be provided to you to return them for a full refund.
Best Regards,
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People may have actually used them, with no issues. Depending on how hard they run them. They will hold up better than the ones with the 2mm dies and white goop.
Not sure how far back the ebay "sold" items history goes, but my purchase is the only sale that is listed.
That may explain why he has never had any complaints.
That may explain why he has never had any complaints.
Plus, the originals say MEX. Mexico does not write. The order is as follows: 1. ON 2. Week and month code 3. and last MEX FYI.
I was wondering about that.
I have Onsemi's from Digikey and they say "MEX", not "MEXICO"
I have Onsemi's from Digikey and they say "MEX", not "MEXICO"
Seen it done both ways, back when the earth was cooling. Both types were quite real.
It became consistent after the switch from the domed top hat to the flat one in use since 1990. Before that there were multiple possible marking schemes, some even without a COO code. Especially in the aluminum days.
It became consistent after the switch from the domed top hat to the flat one in use since 1990. Before that there were multiple possible marking schemes, some even without a COO code. Especially in the aluminum days.
Attachments
Plus, finding a Motorola is next to impossible. Do not buy Motorola printed transistors. If you find it, the metal is very thick and heavy. Do not buy printed Motorola. Current manufacturer ON SEMİ
By the way, I'm talking about today. Those previously purchased may be real.
By the way, I'm talking about today. Those previously purchased may be real.
Yeah, the 6030’s were purchased new, that long ago. I therefore had a known reference for the aluminum 6031’s which came from Tanners (anyone from the DFW area would remember them). They measure the same, and neither have ever failed. The 5303’s were a gamble from BG Micro. They had a whole bunch of low voltage epi-base stuff, various numbers, various makes, all TO-3’s, nothing with any current commercial demand. And about 10 different TV horizontal output types, all come in around the same time. I got one of each of 5 types, checked them, then loaded up on the next order. I passed on all the HOT’s though. No use for them, and neither does anywhere else. My guess is that stuff was sitting in a warehouse for more than 20 years.
I have yet to see any fakes marked with 30 year old date codes, or any in the old aluminum case. I don’t even buy and try obsolete parts with recent date codes.
I have yet to see any fakes marked with 30 year old date codes, or any in the old aluminum case. I don’t even buy and try obsolete parts with recent date codes.
Two more clues....
After cutting the top off with a hacksaw, I realized that it could have been simply pried off with a screwdriver.
Also, when packing to return them, the lettering came off with the clear packing tape...
After cutting the top off with a hacksaw, I realized that it could have been simply pried off with a screwdriver.
Also, when packing to return them, the lettering came off with the clear packing tape...
I was wondering about that lid. Actual fake parts just pop right off. Re-marked generics might actually be hermetically sealed, with a “good” transistor inside. Just not the one you supposedly ordered…..
I completely agree. The lids of the fake ones open easily. This is the fake one I came across. I paid $12 each.
I initiated a return from the ebay seller, it required a photo so I uploaded the same one I posted here with the lid removed. I was immediately issued a USPS postal label, packed it, went to the post office and got a full refund within 20 minutes of scanning it.
That one’s actually got the heat spreader coin. Any chance of peeling up the goop on one and having a look-see? Could get a guesstimate of its actual power handling (at least in the thermally limited part of the curve).