Hello all, I'm planning a sse build and would like to go over some of the parts with anyone that will listen. This will be my first se amp. Looking for budget friendly parts where possible.
for output transformers: EDCOR - GXSE15-8-5K 74$
for power transformer: EDCOR - XPWR033-120 59$
for choke: EDCOR - CXC100-5H-200mA 39$
6l6gc tubes cathode resistors- 750
how does this look?
for output transformers: EDCOR - GXSE15-8-5K 74$
for power transformer: EDCOR - XPWR033-120 59$
for choke: EDCOR - CXC100-5H-200mA 39$
6l6gc tubes cathode resistors- 750
how does this look?
Hi, I moved your thread to the tubes forum as I suspect that this wasn't specific to the commercial tubelab forum 🙂
Tony.
Tony.
Sry guess I should have been alittle more specific, this build will be using a Tubelab Simple Se board.
Looks fine to me.....I would suggest 500V rated caps, assuming your target B+ will end up somewhere between 450 and 500V.
They can be a little hard to find, but they are around.
They can be a little hard to find, but they are around.
Yeah, your B+ will definitely be on the hot side with that power transformer combined with the lower DCR of that choke. I would say that 500V caps are a must.
Looks like you'll also be set up for KT88 operation if you desire.....perhaps pick up a few different cathode R values.
my SSE is very similar, but i used an xpwr035-120 pt and a 560 ohm cathode resistor and it red-plated the Shuguang 6L6gc (coke bottle shaped) tubes I tried. I didnt try to raise the cathode resistance, since it works fine with JJ el34s and I just left them in there. I did get a chance to test the tubes on a 600V hammond pt and they worked fine with the lower b+ of around 400V.
These are the only 6l6gc tubes I have tried, so I'm not sure if I just have a worse than average batch, but it didn't seem like they could be pushed very hard. I'm relatively novice too, so don't put too much weight on my experience...
These are the only 6l6gc tubes I have tried, so I'm not sure if I just have a worse than average batch, but it didn't seem like they could be pushed very hard. I'm relatively novice too, so don't put too much weight on my experience...
Your experience with the Shuguang 6L6s mirror that of many. They do not handle the higher spec-bending plate voltages that most other 6L6GCs can.
I'm curious what you guys are using for coupling caps
Wima MKP. I wouldn't get too hung up on this, as any decent film cap will do the job. IMHO, boutique cap funds are better spent on transformers. Other good choices that are reasonable $$ are Russian surplus film caps that are easy to find on Ebay or Auricaps.
Wima MKP. I wouldn't get too hung up on this, as any decent film cap will do the job. IMHO, boutique cap funds are better spent on transformers. Other good choices that are reasonable $$ are Russian surplus film caps that are easy to find on Ebay or Auricaps.
+1 for sure on iron coin. You could try some Orange drop 716P caps there, not too spendy and they sound pretty good. I use them in my 6L6 SEUL and they sound mighty fine.
Note: 716P not the 715P - no experience with 715P for coupling caps
I get a little picky with what I use for coupling caps, next up for me is K40Y-9 with Auricaps on the bench (only cause I have em). 716P are dead quiet, for a few bucks they are pretty decent coupling caps.
When it gets down to cap selection it all depends on the rest of your system. If your preamp and speakers are up to snuff then you MAY be able to hear differences..that and your ears. I'm an all analog type - TT -> tube pre -> tube amp. I like a quiet background and neutral sound = what goes in I want it to sound the same on the output (or VERY close). Most all of the music I listen to is created with tube amps so the tube coloration is already there, I don't want to ADD to it. Coupling caps can add coloration IMHO so neutral is what I like/want. YMMV
Cheers,
Bob
Those Russian pio caps are pretty cheap and I used them once before with good results. Building the chassis is favorite part I must admit though.
The most boutique cap I have used in the Auricap. However, I got these about 12 years ago when they first came out. I think the price has gone up quite a bit since then. The 716P are a great choice too.
Sorry to jump in on your thead but we seem to be in about the same place. started soldering, I am going to use a switch to vary my bias so I can tube role. my edcors xpwr035 and cxse25-8-25 also there 10h choke should arrive fri. Thinking of using the CSS 7.3 speakers
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Your not intruding in the least bit. A bias switch sounds pretty useful but is above my skill lvl to make, unless I had diagram slap me in the face. I briefly thought about rolling rectifier tubes to change bias, which I have not researched yet. I actually made DIY speakers, the design is called the Lyra, 3 ways. No idea what the sensitivity is on them. Guessing around 90. They turned out very nice.
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