Nichicon caps

topomouse

Member
2015-06-06 7:44 pm
Hi everybody- I am going to re-cap a adcom 2535 power supply. Anyone use the caps from nichicon lkg or lks series? I need 63v 10,000 - Also my pin spacing is about 15 mm on the adcom and all the new caps come as snap and spaced @ 10mm.I don't know if it's possible to bend and solder,so, i appreciate any feedback. The size of the can thats in is appox 35x75, but i no no one is making those. thanks for all considerations.
Regards ,
Tony
 
Hi everybody- I am going to re-cap a adcom 2535 power supply. Anyone use the caps from nichicon lkg or lks series? I need 63v 10,000 - Also my pin spacing is about 15 mm on the adcom and all the new caps come as snap and spaced @ 10mm.I don't know if it's possible to bend and solder,so, i appreciate any feedback. The size of the can thats in is appox 35x75, but i no no one is making those. thanks for all considerations.
Regards ,
Tony
Is the PCB double sided?
Are the holes plated through?

You can't access the cap side of the PCB to solder to the top/component side. You can only solder to the bottom side.
 
andrew-plated through- I understand that i have to drill a hole and solder one end- then solder a copper wire to the other leg or solder some copper legs on it and stand up and fill pcb- think i will use the first option
Your new hole will not be plated through so you only have a connection on the soldered side.
You need some connections near that new hole to connect the solder side to the component side.
You could drill through the PCB to form a "ring of holes" around the new hole.
Insert short copper links and solder both sides. crop very short and then solder the cap through the new hole.

A ring of 4 to 6 copper 0.6mm to 1mm diameter plugs soldered top and bottom will have pretty low inductance and be nearly as good as a plated through hole.
 
Thanks guys-- your the best!!--Is it a toss up or if you had to pick one whats the concensus-panisonic or nichicon?
Both panasonic and nichicon make 1000 hour service life caps, also 3000 hour up service life caps. I buy whichever long life cap the distributor is stocking that day. If they don't have a long life one, I buy somewhere else. I don't like doing re-e-cap every 5 years like I used to have to do when buying **** short life caps from the TV repair parts shop. And I'm not a pro, I don't want to open this up again in 5 years for another service fee.
When the leads won't fit, you can make a cap board out of polycarbonate board or NEMA CE board with the right holes. then you can glue the cap down to the board with the leads up and run wires down to teh old holes. Drill four holes in the transistion board and loop the wires through the extra holes for strain relief. I've had an amp in PA service heat up enough to melt the solder on the snap in cap lead and the wire popped up and shorted against something else and blew up things. Use wallboard adhesive or weatherstrip adhesive to glue the cap down, I've discovered that silicon seal lets go in a year or two, even the bath & kitchen 100% adhesive grade.
 
clear silicone window sealer is very long life.
It is designed to tolerate UV exposure.

I use it to assemble gearboxes and engines instead of using gaskets.
In a gasket face it resists petrol and oil and even in a combustion chamber I had a bit that had seeped past the Will's ring and was exposed to combustion temperature and burning petrol and although covered in a thin coat of carbon soot, was still soft and the surface when wiped was still clear silicone looking.

I know an aquaintance who uses clear silicone sealer to join aluminium panels of a racing car "tub". The tub takes all the forces and torque of braking, accelerating, riding undulations, cornering etc.
 
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