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Hello all,

I have looked over this site for the last few years and have finally decided to jump in. About myself, like many of you I have wanted to build my own speakers, I am not an engineer of any kind but a hobbyist woodworker with some passable skill with a love of fine sounding audio, classical (orchestral), jazz (George Winston, Mike Post), classical rock, (ELP, YES, CSN & Neil Young etc)Movies & movie soundtracks.

Where I would like to set these speakers is in a bedroom of dimensions 11'-6" deep by 9'-10" 8'-0" clg. The receiver I am going to use will be a NAD t751, listening to music, TV, & the occasional movie.

Specs:
60 Watt - 8 Ohm - 5 - 20000 Hz - 5 channels (surround)
70 Watt - 8 Ohm - 5 - 20000 Hz - THD 0.08% - 2 channels (front)
110 Watt - 8 Ohm - 5 - 20000 Hz - 2 channels (front)
160 Watt - 4 Ohm - 5 - 20000 Hz - 2 channels (front)
225 Watt - 2 Ohm - 5 - 20000 Hz - 2 channels (front)

Response Bandwidth5 - 20000 Hz
Signal-To-Noise Ratio96 dB
Total Harmonic Distortion0.08 %

Output Power / Total300 Watt
Input Impedance50 KOhm
Input Sensitivity200 mV

Output Power / Channel110 Watt, 160 Watt, 225 Watt, 60 Watt, 70 Watt
Output Impedance / Channel2 Ohm, 4 Ohm, 8 Ohm
Frequency Response5 - 20000 Hz
Total Harmonic Distortion (THD)0.08 %
Channel Typefront, surround
Channel Qty2, 5

I would like to build a pair of full range speakers for mains mostly & possibly matching center & surrounds and looking for input on which box design would be to my best advantage to build....

Psst, I think I here the opening of the can of worms....

Looking through the website I know there will be the numeral range of opinions, I am welcome to all. Potentially could be some interesting reading...

I understand the use of Baltic birch for cabinet construction which I will be using. I will not use MDF because of the potential health problems due to the dust and lung issues. I plan on finishing the front baffle with solid hardwood over the Baltic birch, probably figured cherry w/ a boiled linseed & amber shellac finish(my signature finish). With a piano black or lacquered red finish in the sides over the Baltic birch sides & flat black finish on the back post side.

I live in Madison Wisconsin & plan to pay a visit to Madisound Speaker Components to purchase the drivers after finishing some Honeydo projects for the wife.

In exchange for advise & suggestions, for those who would like. I will draw measured speaker cad drawings for those who would like them. I am an architect and have my own cad workstation. If you have a hand sketch I can create a dwg. or PDF file for you. I can even create a 3d rendered cabinet model In Revit if you would like.

What say you all. Looking forward to seeing what develops. I have looked at speaker box programs and they gave me more headaches than answers.

Thanks,
Ron
 
What speaker & box design would best fit the receiver posted & size of room? I want to build a speaker which is efficient & not be blown by the wattage supplied by the NAD receiver as I understand that smaller speakers cannot take high wattage. From my reading a Flugal horn would not work in my room configuration. Would a Fonkien or miniOnken work best? Woden Baby Labs seem to be the right size/scale as well. I have read some about Mark Audio Alpair 6 & 10 speakers. metal or paper cones. Thoughts anyone?
 
The current main speakers have two 3" soft domed centers of about 1" dia. each side of a 1" tweeter. Box size is 4 1 /2" x12"x8" deep. sealed box with a made in Korea label on them. I have an old AAL 6" bookshelf w/1" tweeter as a center w/ no surrounds currently. The speakers spun flat w/o clarity and depth of presence. Mains where purchased on Amazon. I am looking to build a quality good looking speaker.
 
i've used a pair of simple 25L front ported enclosures (port dia 6cm lengt 17cm) for the Mark Audio 10M Gen 3 (6") driver, as my first diy speaker. That worked very well going down to 40Hz, but that is only a 30w driver.

Your amp is way to powerfull for such a driver. I used it with a 45w Marantz PM5004 and even that was already way to powerfull for this speaker. And my experience with mark audio drivers is that they actually prefer tubes or class a transistor amps. Your's is class D if i'm right, and that is not a good match for this speaker or fullrange speakers in general.
 
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