New Home Theatre Sub

hey everyone, i'm looking to build a new powered sub for my 5.1 system. at the momment the woofer i'm using bottems out at about 40-50Hz. I want to build something capable of 20Hz flat if possible/fesable.

The amp im thinking of using is this one

Can deliver 600w into 4Ohm in bridged mode with built in 150Hz crossover.

any suggests on driver/box design and amp would be greatly apreciated.

There are T-S parameters in the pdf spec sheet:
For the CVX15:
Fs = 21.5 Hz
Qts = 0.304
Vas = 7.3 cubic feet
2 or 4 ohm dual coils

I threw those parameters into Perfect Box, and it suggests a vented cabinet 3.6 cubic feet for an F3 of 29 Hz. Not at all bad for a home sub.

But, there's probably some other driver that's better value for money, unless you can get a special deal on this driver.
farts here?? don't think so...

hooha said:
Those units are basically fart drivers. Certainly not something you would classify as producing quality output.

As GM mentioned, no T/S parameters either.


dunno 'bout that... I built these 8 ft^3 with comps and they reproduce into the mid 'teens (with room gain) @ 110dB in a 15,000 ft^3 room, designed as ebs... priced right too @ ~$40/driver and that's with the 12" drivers... and these are just the comp drivers.

Wife calls the couch the "vibrochair" seeing as on most hometheater material, the couch actually levitates when strong IMPACTS are reproduced... :D ;) :bigeyes:
hooha said:
Those units are basically fart drivers. Certainly not something you would classify as producing quality output.


?? Not being into car audio beyond despising all the inconsiderate a$$holes driving around with their one note rolling boomboxes drowning out my tunes, I'm not sure what this means or what about its construction makes it one, so don't know what kind of alignment (if any) can deal with it.

dangus said:
There are T-S parameters in the pdf spec sheet:


If these specs are reasonably accurate a well damped Vb = Vas, Fb = Fs (or a bit lower) TWQT could be pretty good in a HT app, especially if corner loaded. This slightly larger (~246.2 L) tapped pipe (TL) might be even better, though not knowing its excursion specs this peak SPL may just be a 'pipe dream' if not corner loaded and there's not enough room gain to help it below ~32 Hz. It should still pound pretty good if not though and it doesn't have an obvious 'gas' problem to mar its performance.



  • kicker cvx15 20-80 hz corner tapped pipe 600 w - 4 ohms.gif
    kicker cvx15 20-80 hz corner tapped pipe 600 w - 4 ohms.gif
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I built a sealed box using the earlier Comp VR, it's a huge box, about 155 litres and stuffed to make it seem larger.
The problem seems to be a very peaky output at around 120 Hz so I stopped using it in my cheap home theatre setup ( it is currently sitting in my shed unused)
Come around and listen before you make a decision, E-mail me

That's my nickname from way back in 9th grade. I had a coach give it to me and it has stuck almost ever since lol. How did you come up with that for a username?

No hijack intended there. I actually wanted to mention that I worked in Car Audio for some 15 years and for the longest time I believed what the manufacturers said about speakers being made to handle the vibrations and harsh temp changes etc of a vehicle environment. I've come to realize after working with HT and Home audio equipment that this mostly means the voice coil has a lot more wiggle room. Other than that, the equipment is geared to a "liking shiny things" sort of crowd.

I have to admit, I have built no few of those one note wonders you hear rattling windows and drowning out conversations on neighboring moons of jupiter and it was all in good fun. I learned a lot about manipulation of sound and SPL production. I even learned a great deal about sound quality as far as what is supposed to sound good and why. Kicker makes one of the more flexible drivers when you are looking at the comps. They aren't hi-fi quality, but if you aren't overly critical, they can make a nice HT sub. There are a lot of others that can do as well or much better depending on budget and WAF issues.

For 20hz in a room that is bigger than an average SUV hatch, this woofer would probably work best in a band pass configuration, but it will be boomy no matter what you do with it. the 40-65hz range will excel and the roll off into the 20s means a BIG enclosure. If low is what you want for LFE effects, there are better woofers and cabs, but budget might be a restraint. If size isn't, try a 6th order.

Lots of ideas. Subs are the only thing that I am actually good at right now. Give me a few years. I want to catch up with GM, Planet10, Scottmoose, and a bunch of others here on the full range side of life before I dare call myself "good' at anything else.

Take care,