allright so here is the problem
I have a pioneer GM-X962 800watts amp powering 2 6"X9"'s (220 watts each) and 2 5" (200 watts each also)
the left side 6"X9" and left side 5" speakers are connected together in parrallel making them 2ohm plugged on the left side amp speaker output and same thing on the right side
the problem is that there is too much bass going to those speakers and i dont have a crossover on the amp only a FULL range and a HPF that cuts out too high wich is gay cause it cuts out all of the bass...
and on the head unit there is basic crossover settings but i cant control the rear and front output separately so i cant cut out the bass on the mid's without doing so for the sub also!!
the problem being that at about 50% of my usable volume range.. the mid's gets too much bass so it sounds like crap and i cant use the full potential of the mid's higher frequencies (voices etc...)
not to mention that it is dangerous for the speakers also!!
so my question is.. what capacitor value do i need to cut out the big bass !!!
I see the charts telling me what values i need for what frequencies to cut... but i dont know actually what exactly that frequency will cut out in real life...
do i need to cut from 200hz 400hz 600hz..
would a first order high pass be enough ? or a more complicated crossover
if i had some non-polarized capacitors in stock i would try and see... and not even be asking but i need to order them so that is why i ask... to order the right thing!!
any help would be greatly appreciated
thanks
I have a pioneer GM-X962 800watts amp powering 2 6"X9"'s (220 watts each) and 2 5" (200 watts each also)
the left side 6"X9" and left side 5" speakers are connected together in parrallel making them 2ohm plugged on the left side amp speaker output and same thing on the right side
the problem is that there is too much bass going to those speakers and i dont have a crossover on the amp only a FULL range and a HPF that cuts out too high wich is gay cause it cuts out all of the bass...
and on the head unit there is basic crossover settings but i cant control the rear and front output separately so i cant cut out the bass on the mid's without doing so for the sub also!!
the problem being that at about 50% of my usable volume range.. the mid's gets too much bass so it sounds like crap and i cant use the full potential of the mid's higher frequencies (voices etc...)
not to mention that it is dangerous for the speakers also!!
so my question is.. what capacitor value do i need to cut out the big bass !!!
I see the charts telling me what values i need for what frequencies to cut... but i dont know actually what exactly that frequency will cut out in real life...
do i need to cut from 200hz 400hz 600hz..
would a first order high pass be enough ? or a more complicated crossover
if i had some non-polarized capacitors in stock i would try and see... and not even be asking but i need to order them so that is why i ask... to order the right thing!!
any help would be greatly appreciated
thanks
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bass is normally cut at 70-150hz. Your charts probably tell you the -3db point, or in other words the half power point.
2-Way Crossover Designer / Calculator
Heres the thing, use the value they give you for the tweeter.
If your speakers can handle it, stick with the normal 1st order butterworth. if you want a sharper cut off, try the 2nd Order Linkwitz-Riley.
I dont know where you get your parts, i get mine at decent prices from partsexpress.com
2-Way Crossover Designer / Calculator
Heres the thing, use the value they give you for the tweeter.
If your speakers can handle it, stick with the normal 1st order butterworth. if you want a sharper cut off, try the 2nd Order Linkwitz-Riley.
I dont know where you get your parts, i get mine at decent prices from partsexpress.com
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you said use the value they give you for the tweeter....
do i use 2ohm for the tweeter and 2ohm for the woofer impedance in the calculator in the first page??
or do i use 4ohm on each since both 4ohm in parrallel will make 2ohm the actual real setup i am using !!
so if i understand correctly, i use only the parts connected to the tweeter showed on the second page ?? is this what you meant
do i use 2ohm for the tweeter and 2ohm for the woofer impedance in the calculator in the first page??
or do i use 4ohm on each since both 4ohm in parrallel will make 2ohm the actual real setup i am using !!
so if i understand correctly, i use only the parts connected to the tweeter showed on the second page ?? is this what you meant
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yes your tricking the calculator. The tweeter is the high pass filter. Just put the woofer and tweeter at the same ohms. No you are not running them in parallel in the calc. Yes you are only using the tweeter parts.
Do 4 ohm if you are putting a blocker at each speaker. I dont know how it would sound, but you could also try putting in 2 ohm in the calc, and putting the blocker right at the amp.
Do 4 ohm if you are putting a blocker at each speaker. I dont know how it would sound, but you could also try putting in 2 ohm in the calc, and putting the blocker right at the amp.
thanks
now i have another problem... I know what i need
but looking at digikey/newark/allied they dont seem to have much choices in those ranges...
500-800 uF non polarized
is there a specialized site for this that you know ?
also i read that 100V is good up to about 200 watts so if i put the blocker at the amp there would be 400 watts going through it .. should i use 200V at least?
also wich type are suitable and wich ones are not..
electrolytic, metal film, tantalum, etc...
thanks
now i have another problem... I know what i need
but looking at digikey/newark/allied they dont seem to have much choices in those ranges...
500-800 uF non polarized
is there a specialized site for this that you know ?
also i read that 100V is good up to about 200 watts so if i put the blocker at the amp there would be 400 watts going through it .. should i use 200V at least?
also wich type are suitable and wich ones are not..
electrolytic, metal film, tantalum, etc...
thanks
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voltage has to do with the amp output voltage.
100 volt into 4 ohms is like 2500watts. so 100v caps should handle any spikes just fine.
http://www.bcae1.com/dampfact.htm
Id do something like this:
http://www.parts-express.com/pe/pshowdetl.cfm?Partnumber=027-378
a 500uf electrolytic
and then bypass it with a small film cap like one of these:
http://www.parts-express.com/pe/pshowdetl.cfm?PartNumber=027-423
any maybe even one of these too for the highs:
http://www.parts-express.com/pe/pshowdetl.cfm?PartNumber=027-458
so you would have a 500uf electrolytic bypassed with 10% its value with a normal film, and then a wee little foil cap for the crispy highs. Most high end dacs and preamps do it this way.
Since your cap value is so huge you might be better off putting them on each speaker instead in parallel, That would keep the electrolytic at a sane value. and the bypass caps are cheap.
voltage has to do with the amp output voltage.
100 volt into 4 ohms is like 2500watts. so 100v caps should handle any spikes just fine.
http://www.bcae1.com/dampfact.htm
Id do something like this:
http://www.parts-express.com/pe/pshowdetl.cfm?Partnumber=027-378
a 500uf electrolytic
and then bypass it with a small film cap like one of these:
http://www.parts-express.com/pe/pshowdetl.cfm?PartNumber=027-423
any maybe even one of these too for the highs:
http://www.parts-express.com/pe/pshowdetl.cfm?PartNumber=027-458
so you would have a 500uf electrolytic bypassed with 10% its value with a normal film, and then a wee little foil cap for the crispy highs. Most high end dacs and preamps do it this way.
Since your cap value is so huge you might be better off putting them on each speaker instead in parallel, That would keep the electrolytic at a sane value. and the bypass caps are cheap.
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