Hi,
I have purchased two REL T5 subs from a guy locally. Don't ask but I was unable to test them since he had no power cables and he was at his work so I just grabbed them. Came home and both dead. No power whatsoever. Changed the fuse, still nothing. I opened the amps and saw both amps same spot with leaked caps and resistors got bad too looks like. Talked to REL and they said "looks like those need to be changed". I have some soldering skills but not for small spots like this.
Can someone help me in South Florida (zip 33326) to fix this or at least direct me to a place with fair prices? I don't want to pay more than $50 (both) to get these fixed. Otherwise, it is not worth it for me.
Here are the photos of the amps.
BTW, the drivers look brand new. Not even a tiny issue on them.
Thanks for the help!
I have purchased two REL T5 subs from a guy locally. Don't ask but I was unable to test them since he had no power cables and he was at his work so I just grabbed them. Came home and both dead. No power whatsoever. Changed the fuse, still nothing. I opened the amps and saw both amps same spot with leaked caps and resistors got bad too looks like. Talked to REL and they said "looks like those need to be changed". I have some soldering skills but not for small spots like this.
Can someone help me in South Florida (zip 33326) to fix this or at least direct me to a place with fair prices? I don't want to pay more than $50 (both) to get these fixed. Otherwise, it is not worth it for me.
Here are the photos of the amps.
BTW, the drivers look brand new. Not even a tiny issue on them.
Thanks for the help!
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Plate reliability seems more of a common issue with Rel subs. They sound A1 when they do work.
I replaced with one of these efficient PA amps https://www.amazon.com/Crown-XLS100...t-reviews/B011TI97VE?reviewerType=all_reviews I am happy with the performance. It pounds clearly and accurately . Its always running and hardly even warms up. I have not heard the fan turn on.
There is enough current to easily power two subs. Or four in 2 ohms. If distortion behaves. Or in bridged mode driving 1 channel x 1100 watts. The options are long. Positive reviews, also long. So I'm giving it a try.
I payed 275 Canadian for a second hand 1002. More than $50 yes but it comes with some peace of mind.
I replaced with one of these efficient PA amps https://www.amazon.com/Crown-XLS100...t-reviews/B011TI97VE?reviewerType=all_reviews I am happy with the performance. It pounds clearly and accurately . Its always running and hardly even warms up. I have not heard the fan turn on.
There is enough current to easily power two subs. Or four in 2 ohms. If distortion behaves. Or in bridged mode driving 1 channel x 1100 watts. The options are long. Positive reviews, also long. So I'm giving it a try.
I payed 275 Canadian for a second hand 1002. More than $50 yes but it comes with some peace of mind.
The drivers and passive radiators are decent and extremely well tuned to the factory boxes. I think the T5 has 10" with PR. I'd gladly take them off the op's hands for a few hundred bucks. Rels sound wicked. I wouldn't tamper with them I simply find a new suitable amp. This is a T3 and the plate that quit. The t3 is one of the best sounding factory built subs I have heard in some time. Regardless of cost and size. I suggest keeping them together just grab a better amp $0.02 and dsp.
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Don't replace the original plate amp, they are cheaply made and bound to break on you.
I use a Crown xls 1002 with my Rels. They maintain there articulate bass like champions with the Crown. Its onboard crossover almost maxes out, but it goes as low as you'll need it to, to reproduce realistic real world deep bass recordings.
I had about 100 different subs. This combo is staying. With high end stand mounts and premium amplifier it blends in perfectly.
Turns out that the root issue was that the driver was seized. I'm not putting anymore money or energy into it. It's going into the trash. Thanks for responding, though!
Do tell us more about the seized drivers - how did you check and what do you think caused it. Repairable or not? Did a large excursion like a switch on thump push the coil too far and now it's stuck there?
Regarding the amp, at first glance that section looks like the class D amp output filter. If so, this is a common failure due to the very high ripple current in the capacitors. Replace them all with same value, better quality capacitors.