Hi Guys,
I'm struggling with a Subwoofer MJ Acoustics MK II Pro 50.
Initially I had issues that subwoofer would not turn on the print fuses where burned and was caused by overheated Mosfets IRFP240 and IRFP9240. So I replaced those while I was not sure if there where issues with the large capacitors I replaces them both just to be sure.
So i thought to be back in business however Sub goes on and no issues but when I plug in the LFE is starts making loud noises and there is no audio.
Not sure where the issue comes from.
Also when I tur the knobs of the High level input it also goes crazy while i'm not using the High input
All the help appreciated.
Cheers,
Hemant
I'm struggling with a Subwoofer MJ Acoustics MK II Pro 50.
Initially I had issues that subwoofer would not turn on the print fuses where burned and was caused by overheated Mosfets IRFP240 and IRFP9240. So I replaced those while I was not sure if there where issues with the large capacitors I replaces them both just to be sure.
So i thought to be back in business however Sub goes on and no issues but when I plug in the LFE is starts making loud noises and there is no audio.
Not sure where the issue comes from.
Also when I tur the knobs of the High level input it also goes crazy while i'm not using the High input
All the help appreciated.
Cheers,
Hemant
If they sound anywhere close to the 100 its well worth waking up that mj.
I'll say the usual I do in many cases when another plate amp bites the dust, run it with a good class D separate. I scooped up half dozen quality subs that way, after the plates fail on the owner👍
Nothing wrong with fixing them time after time. Its just not what I'd do. Unless there's a way to step up quality in there to make it bulletproof. Subs take a lot of abuse its necessary.
I'll say the usual I do in many cases when another plate amp bites the dust, run it with a good class D separate. I scooped up half dozen quality subs that way, after the plates fail on the owner👍
Nothing wrong with fixing them time after time. Its just not what I'd do. Unless there's a way to step up quality in there to make it bulletproof. Subs take a lot of abuse its necessary.
Hi,
Thanks for your reply, the amp is a Class A always on 🙁, however the sound is good and powerful when it works hence my attempt to revive it.
I think i'm almost there mostfets run stable and no fuses are blown, now I need to get some sound out of it.
As a test I attached a 300 watts car amp to the woofer which work without issue.
Hemant
Thanks for your reply, the amp is a Class A always on 🙁, however the sound is good and powerful when it works hence my attempt to revive it.
I think i'm almost there mostfets run stable and no fuses are blown, now I need to get some sound out of it.
As a test I attached a 300 watts car amp to the woofer which work without issue.
Hemant
I actually preffer a/b to D but the difference in terms of sound isn't a fair trade for the reliability. My d amps are reliable workhorses and barely even get warm. In fact I've never seen the fan engaged it hasn't came on yet that I'm aware of.
At least you know it will still sound good with change outs.
I assume the amp has built ins? I wish they did that with more home stereo amps. Something like the old audio control amps are nice, and fully active but it could also be defeated.
At least you know it will still sound good with change outs.
I assume the amp has built ins? I wish they did that with more home stereo amps. Something like the old audio control amps are nice, and fully active but it could also be defeated.
Hi Yes Amp is build in the backside of the sub.
But I need to fix de horrible noise currently every thing works except sound is not audible. Trying to figure out where the issue comes from. Not sure where too look for obvious faults.
Hemant
But I need to fix de horrible noise currently every thing works except sound is not audible. Trying to figure out where the issue comes from. Not sure where too look for obvious faults.
Hemant