I have a 4 channel tripath amp.
Lots of juice and they're cheap but, no trigger for turning on/off with the car's head unit. Obviously I can't let it vampire energy off the battery while I'm not in the car so I was hoping there is a simple way to add a trigger.
Can I just use a relay or will I cook the thing due to the current the amp will draw through it?
Lots of juice and they're cheap but, no trigger for turning on/off with the car's head unit. Obviously I can't let it vampire energy off the battery while I'm not in the car so I was hoping there is a simple way to add a trigger.
Can I just use a relay or will I cook the thing due to the current the amp will draw through it?
Unfortunately I've been unable to decipher which chip pin it is due to the data sheets varying the generation of chips that have been produced under the TK2050. It's the 4 channel x 100 watt version with 40 pins, 42 if you count the 2 clipped off by the manufacturer.
One of these babies. Class D digital.
The PDF's are really crummy in terms of accuracy.
Anyone familiar with these and aware of which pin I need to tap?
Can't believe the quality of these yet the manufacturers don't bother with thermal paste. Also quite stupid that they don't include a terminal for remote power switching.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
One of these babies. Class D digital.
The PDF's are really crummy in terms of accuracy.
Anyone familiar with these and aware of which pin I need to tap?
Can't believe the quality of these yet the manufacturers don't bother with thermal paste. Also quite stupid that they don't include a terminal for remote power switching.
They're on Ebay under TK2050 and a few dozen other sites. It's become a very popular board since it's complete and you only need to house it and power it, the power board also being built in. I found the proper schematic finally and it's power pin shunts to ground through a resistor. For about $40 shipped, you can buy a 2 channel x 100 watt or 4 channel x 100 watt version.
Pretty amazing considering that though it turns out it's digital, it's Class D and they sound outstanding.
As I already mentioned, it's going to go in my car so it will be powered by 12/14.4 volts from the battery/alternator. I went ahead and found a relay for 6 bucks at Radioshack which can handle 30 amps of current flow. A much easier and safer solution than trying to bother with a ground break relay and desoldering the pin. Thanks for the interest though
Pretty amazing considering that though it turns out it's digital, it's Class D and they sound outstanding.
As I already mentioned, it's going to go in my car so it will be powered by 12/14.4 volts from the battery/alternator. I went ahead and found a relay for 6 bucks at Radioshack which can handle 30 amps of current flow. A much easier and safer solution than trying to bother with a ground break relay and desoldering the pin. Thanks for the interest though
VOTR, Perry Babin is the house car amp genius.
You might want to readvise yourself of his last post.
I'm not sure, but there is likely no true disable mode on that amplifer. As Perry said, the controlling of power is usually done in a switching controller inside real car amps. The thing you're looking for could be very hard to find if it ain't there.
Here's a plan:
http://www.allelectronics.com/mas_a...a507202242a4b041088944b248216,7524,sws_10.jpg
You might want to readvise yourself of his last post.
I'm not sure, but there is likely no true disable mode on that amplifer. As Perry said, the controlling of power is usually done in a switching controller inside real car amps. The thing you're looking for could be very hard to find if it ain't there.
Here's a plan:
http://www.allelectronics.com/mas_a...a507202242a4b041088944b248216,7524,sws_10.jpg
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Your guru couldn't even suggest I get a 12 volt relay which is the obvious solution. That is a CLass D digital amp, it's efficiency isn't power supply dependent. It's a Tripath. He didn't know anything about it after I gave him the chip number which seems incredibly odd considering the popularity. I am aware of his claim but it's wrong.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
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ViolenceOnTheRadio, you have to admit you bought a cornball "internet board" and that everyone here is working for free. If you take a pill, you might get something out of one or the other. That's not a TK2050 like any I've ever seen, so, not being into divination, I can't tell you what pin does what.
However, I can tell you that if that board were to actually output 400 watts RMS from a 13.2V supply, it will technically exceed the limits of that relay.
However, I can tell you that if that board were to actually output 400 watts RMS from a 13.2V supply, it will technically exceed the limits of that relay.
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maybe this will help
You could probably figure out more by reading this thread.
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/clas...h-board-4-100w-class-d-amplifier-board-5.html
You could probably figure out more by reading this thread.
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/clas...h-board-4-100w-class-d-amplifier-board-5.html
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Never said it produces that wattage at 13.2 volts..never did I even mention 13.2 volts. I mentioned 12 and 14.4 but the full efficiency is reached at 30 volts so at 14.4 I'm getting about 45-46 watts RMS. This is an early generation TK2050, I have absolutely no doubts about it and have matched that chip to the company schematic. The exact pins snipped off on mine are shown to be snipped off in the TK2050 PDF.
For "Working for free", you really seem to be trying to steer me towards a destination that doesn't exist
The amp has a built in soft start so I doubt the relay will cause a pop. It's designed to be powered by everything from batteries to a wallwort to a large scale power supply which means a kill switch. The soft start is built in and again, it doesn't need a switching power supply to reach full efficiency. It will be running my front and rear full range speakers, all of which are 4 ohms.
It is absolutely impossible for the amp to produce more than 26w RMS per channel into 4 ohms if it only has 14.4v to work from. This is approximately the same power produced by modern head units.
If you want or need more power than that, you'll need a switching power supply to boost the supply voltage.
If you want or need more power than that, you'll need a switching power supply to boost the supply voltage.
Perry how familiar are you with digital tripath technology?
As I understand it, the design's mosfet switching wastes far less energy by not producing heat better than not simply analog but analog class D. Therefore it is able to produce more wattage by not incurring a power loss to heat. It's class D however due to this advance in technology, is considered Class T but is unfortunately still struggling to catch on.
I've driven the board pretty hard at 24 volts, it's rather difficult to get it lukewarm let alone hot.
I feel you're mistaken and applying typical operating characteristics of common design technology. I've run these amps at a variety of voltages. At just 12 volts using one channel, by ears alone there's no way I'm only getting 20 watts @ 4 ohms but to satisfy my curiosity and your persistence, I'll get it on the meter sometime today and produce factual data on the matter.
Andrew Eckhardt familiarize yourself with Tripath Technologies. They were building amps for everyone from Sony to Alpine not long ago. They were the all plastic, very tiny amps that produced almost no heat but at the time, the digital vs analog debate was at it's peak and the lunkheads running audio shops started to persuade people into not buying them. Fast forward to the present and Tripath has been in Chapter 11 for a few years but is licensing the technology to a handful of manufacturers.
Low and behold, the DIY community has granted these amps the reputation of a godsend and they are steadily growing in popularity and favoritism.
In contrast to my tube and transistor amps, this actually sounds better. Very warm and absolutely noiseless. While I prefer analog circuits for preamps, I'm now convinced digital produces a much better power amp.
As I understand it, the design's mosfet switching wastes far less energy by not producing heat better than not simply analog but analog class D. Therefore it is able to produce more wattage by not incurring a power loss to heat. It's class D however due to this advance in technology, is considered Class T but is unfortunately still struggling to catch on.
I've driven the board pretty hard at 24 volts, it's rather difficult to get it lukewarm let alone hot.
I feel you're mistaken and applying typical operating characteristics of common design technology. I've run these amps at a variety of voltages. At just 12 volts using one channel, by ears alone there's no way I'm only getting 20 watts @ 4 ohms but to satisfy my curiosity and your persistence, I'll get it on the meter sometime today and produce factual data on the matter.
Andrew Eckhardt familiarize yourself with Tripath Technologies. They were building amps for everyone from Sony to Alpine not long ago. They were the all plastic, very tiny amps that produced almost no heat but at the time, the digital vs analog debate was at it's peak and the lunkheads running audio shops started to persuade people into not buying them. Fast forward to the present and Tripath has been in Chapter 11 for a few years but is licensing the technology to a handful of manufacturers.
Low and behold, the DIY community has granted these amps the reputation of a godsend and they are steadily growing in popularity and favoritism.
In contrast to my tube and transistor amps, this actually sounds better. Very warm and absolutely noiseless. While I prefer analog circuits for preamps, I'm now convinced digital produces a much better power amp.
There's no question that you can NOT exceed 26w RMS into 4 ohms with only 14.4v DC of rail voltage. This assumes that you're using a sine wave and are not driving the amp to clipping. You'll need an oscilloscope to detect the onset of clipping. If your tests don't confirm this, there is an error in testing or there is something inconsistent with the information provided (voltage, load...).
For a fixed rail voltage, there is no reason that a class D will produce more power than any other class (assuming that the amplifier is designed to drive the outputs to the rails). Class D (or class T) simply does it more efficiently.
Maybe the lunkheads were warning them off of switching amplifiers before the technology matured.
What's important here (to me) is that no one wastes $40 on one of these expecting to get an amp that can produce 200 watts into 4 ohm loads with nothing more than the battery voltage.
For a fixed rail voltage, there is no reason that a class D will produce more power than any other class (assuming that the amplifier is designed to drive the outputs to the rails). Class D (or class T) simply does it more efficiently.
Maybe the lunkheads were warning them off of switching amplifiers before the technology matured.
What's important here (to me) is that no one wastes $40 on one of these expecting to get an amp that can produce 200 watts into 4 ohm loads with nothing more than the battery voltage.
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