So this is my first time here. I have been doing my installs of the entire car system on my own for past three years by reading online articles and watching youtube. Have already gone through three changes and every time I have managed to achieve better and better sound.
Now I wish to upgrade my rear speakers. I am thinking of sending the front rainbows to the back trunk and face the driver direction?? Does that cause some issues with sound? Rear doors don't have speakers so not sure if I can cut and install.
What are the amazing speakers that you may recommend??
My Choices as of now: by browsing online-
1) Focal ES165KX2 120watt@2ohm ES 165 KX2 - Focal (Price: - 570 euro)
2) Gladen ZERO PRO 165.2 PP (Price:- 679 euro) very expensive
GLADEN GERMAN TECHNOLOGY Compo Coax Loudspeaker
3) Hertz MLK 1650.3 LEGEND (Price :- 689 euro) very expensive
MLK 1650.3 - Hertz Mille Legend car audio speakers system
4) Rainbow Germaniums GL C6.2 (Price:- 429 euro)
Germanium Line - Rainbow Car Audio
very similar to the SL Pro's that I Have.
Please recommend more. Not more expensive than these but can be under. I will order in europe and have a friend bring them in.
Thank you so much and please give any advice you may have, I know nothing and thats my attitude so I can learn more.
What I have as of now...
HU : Alpine - W265EBT with inbuilt crossover that I use.
Front Speakers:- Rainbow Sound Line Pro SLC 6.2 PRO 120watt@2ohm which I have set to 63 hz with a slope of 12. Had set it to 50 hz earlier but I think I damaged one woofer a bit. it does mild farting sound at high volume... not sure. but at 63hz@12 slope its good at full volume and mild gain.
( the link to the speakers:- Sound Line PRO - Rainbow Car Audio)
Rear speakers:- 6x9 Rockford Fosgate (4way- Cheap tweeters and very sharp but the bouncing from the roof actually compensates.) 75watt@4ohm in the open trunk of my suv firing upwards. They are in a box each.
Amplifier:- Rainbow Germanium Four 105watts@4ohm or 140watts@2ohm. (four channel) Is it important for my components them to be under 105watts@4ohm? or 140 watts@2ohm?
Subwoofer : 12" Rockford Fosgate Punch 250watt@4 ohm. Vented box by rockford.
Amplifier for subwoofer: p300 mono class A/B tiny amp but powers the sub decently. set at 100 hz with 1/4 way punch eq(slope?) not sure about that.
Wiring: 12 AWG pure copper (C&E) OFC
RCA : rockford Fosgate
Have a 2 farad capacitor but everyone seems to think this is a waste and I should chuck it. views?
Amp is on a 4 guage main with 8 guage from a splitter to both amps.
The doors are deadened and the wooden rings installed for the components.
Now I wish to upgrade my rear speakers. I am thinking of sending the front rainbows to the back trunk and face the driver direction?? Does that cause some issues with sound? Rear doors don't have speakers so not sure if I can cut and install.
What are the amazing speakers that you may recommend??
My Choices as of now: by browsing online-
1) Focal ES165KX2 120watt@2ohm ES 165 KX2 - Focal (Price: - 570 euro)
2) Gladen ZERO PRO 165.2 PP (Price:- 679 euro) very expensive
GLADEN GERMAN TECHNOLOGY Compo Coax Loudspeaker
3) Hertz MLK 1650.3 LEGEND (Price :- 689 euro) very expensive
MLK 1650.3 - Hertz Mille Legend car audio speakers system
4) Rainbow Germaniums GL C6.2 (Price:- 429 euro)
Germanium Line - Rainbow Car Audio
very similar to the SL Pro's that I Have.
Please recommend more. Not more expensive than these but can be under. I will order in europe and have a friend bring them in.
Thank you so much and please give any advice you may have, I know nothing and thats my attitude so I can learn more.
What I have as of now...
HU : Alpine - W265EBT with inbuilt crossover that I use.
Front Speakers:- Rainbow Sound Line Pro SLC 6.2 PRO 120watt@2ohm which I have set to 63 hz with a slope of 12. Had set it to 50 hz earlier but I think I damaged one woofer a bit. it does mild farting sound at high volume... not sure. but at 63hz@12 slope its good at full volume and mild gain.
( the link to the speakers:- Sound Line PRO - Rainbow Car Audio)
Rear speakers:- 6x9 Rockford Fosgate (4way- Cheap tweeters and very sharp but the bouncing from the roof actually compensates.) 75watt@4ohm in the open trunk of my suv firing upwards. They are in a box each.
Amplifier:- Rainbow Germanium Four 105watts@4ohm or 140watts@2ohm. (four channel) Is it important for my components them to be under 105watts@4ohm? or 140 watts@2ohm?
Subwoofer : 12" Rockford Fosgate Punch 250watt@4 ohm. Vented box by rockford.
Amplifier for subwoofer: p300 mono class A/B tiny amp but powers the sub decently. set at 100 hz with 1/4 way punch eq(slope?) not sure about that.
Wiring: 12 AWG pure copper (C&E) OFC
RCA : rockford Fosgate
Have a 2 farad capacitor but everyone seems to think this is a waste and I should chuck it. views?
Amp is on a 4 guage main with 8 guage from a splitter to both amps.
The doors are deadened and the wooden rings installed for the components.
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Do not post the same thread in more than one section. Please read the rules.Your other thread has been deleted.
Hi and welcome,
I can't really comment on which component set to buy, they all seem to be of very high quality. In car audio the quality of sound is mostly dependent on the installation. You could spend a small fortune on equipment and it will sound only as good as the install.
As for the rear fill speakers, I personally don't like to run full range. I have used just a woofer with a HP at about 80hz and let it roll off at the upper frequencies with good results, or I don't use rear fill at all. It all depends on the vehicle and if you want passengers in the back seat to enjoy the music.
There have been lots of debates about capacitors, if they do any good or not. Here is a video that seems the prove that it does make a difference. https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=nsg8Ys9f6BA. Hope this helps, not to specific I know. Please post some pictures if you get a chance. I need some inspiration for some of my projects.
Regards,
Matt
I can't really comment on which component set to buy, they all seem to be of very high quality. In car audio the quality of sound is mostly dependent on the installation. You could spend a small fortune on equipment and it will sound only as good as the install.
As for the rear fill speakers, I personally don't like to run full range. I have used just a woofer with a HP at about 80hz and let it roll off at the upper frequencies with good results, or I don't use rear fill at all. It all depends on the vehicle and if you want passengers in the back seat to enjoy the music.
There have been lots of debates about capacitors, if they do any good or not. Here is a video that seems the prove that it does make a difference. https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=nsg8Ys9f6BA. Hope this helps, not to specific I know. Please post some pictures if you get a chance. I need some inspiration for some of my projects.
Regards,
Matt
thanks for the advice
I agree on how important installation is. I earlier had the comps on plastic oem mount. got rid of the plastic and put mdf mount and bass is better though it could still get better. The doors are deadened, need to do more research. not sure about my capacitor, a lot of stuff out there. gonna take it out and see if it makes a difference.
DO you know if 3 way component is more suited for electronica or rap music?
posting some pics of the Rainbow sound line Pro and the germanium amp and some install shots. will post more of the rear sub and 6x9's later.
I agree on how important installation is. I earlier had the comps on plastic oem mount. got rid of the plastic and put mdf mount and bass is better though it could still get better. The doors are deadened, need to do more research. not sure about my capacitor, a lot of stuff out there. gonna take it out and see if it makes a difference.
DO you know if 3 way component is more suited for electronica or rap music?
posting some pics of the Rainbow sound line Pro and the germanium amp and some install shots. will post more of the rear sub and 6x9's later.
Attachments
The main problem with systems like this is correct integration and correct design, rather than the quality of the individual components.
You are inherently limited, by the cars cabin design, as to what you can implement and this is usually for worse.
As is usual you have a pair of woofers down in the bottom panel of the door. This is convenient and practical but that does then leave the question of where to put the tweeter?
Clearly you need something to cover the upper part of the spectrum but for good performance you need two things that are quite mutually exclusive. You need the tweeter at (or close to) ear height, but you also need the tweeter close to the woofer.
Of course systems like this don't sound horrible but rather sound decent, but cannot possible sound spectacular due to design limitations.
My brother visited recently with his new car and I went over the basics with him as I had upgraded the stereo in his previous car and he was wondering what I could do with his current one.
The basic sound was actually very good and I'm going to say to you what I said to him.
You can upgrade the floor mounted woofers, and the tweeters mounted much higher up, but for any real upgrade in sound quality you need to alter the basic concept of how the system works.
This idea isn't really anything new but it does depend heavily on what you can fit into your cars front area.
Basically you would need to change from;
Tweeter + Woofer + Sub.
to
Full range driver + Woofer + Sub.
This sounds like it could be an accident waiting to happen but everything revolves around the quality of the full range driver.
Use something like this...
2½" SB65WBAC25-4 :: SB Acoustics
And you're good to go.
The basic idea is to mount the little SB driver in a pod up on the top of the dash that fires towards you, so you're listening reasonably close to on axis. Yes the full range driver doesn't have the off axis performance of a small tweeter but this is actually quite advantageous. Its limited high frequency dispersion will reduce the number of reflections (caused by the irregularities in the dash) and improve imaging.
Treble/high frequency balance, is easily adjusted with your tone controls to tilt the response up or down to your tastes with the SB having excellent treble fidelity.
The crux of this design though is that the SB driver can be crossed over low and very low compared to most tweeters. I would high pass it from ~300Hz with 4th order acoustic slopes. This gives you painless integration, free from driver separation issues, between the top mounted full range driver and then the floor mounted woofer in the door.
Going this route automatically solves the two basic limitations of car audio installations without being overly complicated. Obviously you would need an active crossover for the 300Hz xover. The woofer would need a 300Hz low pass too.
If you need a sub, then add one, but the nice advantage of only needing to use the floor mounted woofer up to 300Hz is that you can pick it for its bass capabilities, rather than needing it to do both bass and midrange.
You are inherently limited, by the cars cabin design, as to what you can implement and this is usually for worse.
As is usual you have a pair of woofers down in the bottom panel of the door. This is convenient and practical but that does then leave the question of where to put the tweeter?
Clearly you need something to cover the upper part of the spectrum but for good performance you need two things that are quite mutually exclusive. You need the tweeter at (or close to) ear height, but you also need the tweeter close to the woofer.
Of course systems like this don't sound horrible but rather sound decent, but cannot possible sound spectacular due to design limitations.
My brother visited recently with his new car and I went over the basics with him as I had upgraded the stereo in his previous car and he was wondering what I could do with his current one.
The basic sound was actually very good and I'm going to say to you what I said to him.
You can upgrade the floor mounted woofers, and the tweeters mounted much higher up, but for any real upgrade in sound quality you need to alter the basic concept of how the system works.
This idea isn't really anything new but it does depend heavily on what you can fit into your cars front area.
Basically you would need to change from;
Tweeter + Woofer + Sub.
to
Full range driver + Woofer + Sub.
This sounds like it could be an accident waiting to happen but everything revolves around the quality of the full range driver.
Use something like this...
2½" SB65WBAC25-4 :: SB Acoustics
And you're good to go.
The basic idea is to mount the little SB driver in a pod up on the top of the dash that fires towards you, so you're listening reasonably close to on axis. Yes the full range driver doesn't have the off axis performance of a small tweeter but this is actually quite advantageous. Its limited high frequency dispersion will reduce the number of reflections (caused by the irregularities in the dash) and improve imaging.
Treble/high frequency balance, is easily adjusted with your tone controls to tilt the response up or down to your tastes with the SB having excellent treble fidelity.
The crux of this design though is that the SB driver can be crossed over low and very low compared to most tweeters. I would high pass it from ~300Hz with 4th order acoustic slopes. This gives you painless integration, free from driver separation issues, between the top mounted full range driver and then the floor mounted woofer in the door.
Going this route automatically solves the two basic limitations of car audio installations without being overly complicated. Obviously you would need an active crossover for the 300Hz xover. The woofer would need a 300Hz low pass too.
If you need a sub, then add one, but the nice advantage of only needing to use the floor mounted woofer up to 300Hz is that you can pick it for its bass capabilities, rather than needing it to do both bass and midrange.
thanks
thanks so much for such detailed info. there is deffinately an issue with the woofer (midbass) being too far awy at the bottom. will it be easier to go for a 3-way system rather than active? I don't know how to do all that.
thanks so much for such detailed info. there is deffinately an issue with the woofer (midbass) being too far awy at the bottom. will it be easier to go for a 3-way system rather than active? I don't know how to do all that.
From what I can tell your system is already half active anyway.
Your head unit has several outputs per channel with variable crossover slopes and operating frequencies.
You are probably familiar with active crossovers even if you are not familiar with the terminology.
An active crossover basically operates along these lines.
CD player output > Volume control > Active crossover > Several channels of amplification > Loudspeaker drive units.
Whereas passive works like this.
CD player output > Volume control > Power amplifier > Passive crossover > Loudspeaker drive units.
I'm sure you are possibly familiar with the various pieces of car audio hardware that do the above.
Your head unit has several outputs per channel with variable crossover slopes and operating frequencies.
You are probably familiar with active crossovers even if you are not familiar with the terminology.
An active crossover basically operates along these lines.
CD player output > Volume control > Active crossover > Several channels of amplification > Loudspeaker drive units.
Whereas passive works like this.
CD player output > Volume control > Power amplifier > Passive crossover > Loudspeaker drive units.
I'm sure you are possibly familiar with the various pieces of car audio hardware that do the above.
Thanks for posting pictures. Looks like nice gear and a clean install.
5th element already pointed this out, but I will just add to it from some my experiences. I have found that when using components with passive crossover networks, mounting the tweeter and woofer as close as possible to each other usually works best. With some of the DSPs available with time alignment, EQ and filtering you would have more flexibility with mounting. I have had to completely rebuild door panels to get the best mounting positions for SQ. It was a very time consuming project, sounded very good. Probably will never spend that much time and money on a car stereo again though.
Going to a three way component set could help your situation, but adds more complexity and problems with mounting the drivers. 5th elements idea with using the the full range SB driver could work very well in your vehicle with the woofer so low on the door. You don't have to locate the tweeters at ear level to get good imaging. I made some custom fiberglass kick panels for a Honda Civic and it sounded like the sound was come from the dash. I should add that kick panel mounted speakers in an SUV don't work very well.
If you are still interested in changing up your current setup, you should consider learning how to work with fiberglass ( if you don't already know how ) it will open up unlimited possibilities. I will attach a picture of a tweeter pod that I fabricated for my Dodge truck. It still needs to be finished sanded and painted.
Regards,
Matt
5th element already pointed this out, but I will just add to it from some my experiences. I have found that when using components with passive crossover networks, mounting the tweeter and woofer as close as possible to each other usually works best. With some of the DSPs available with time alignment, EQ and filtering you would have more flexibility with mounting. I have had to completely rebuild door panels to get the best mounting positions for SQ. It was a very time consuming project, sounded very good. Probably will never spend that much time and money on a car stereo again though.
Going to a three way component set could help your situation, but adds more complexity and problems with mounting the drivers. 5th elements idea with using the the full range SB driver could work very well in your vehicle with the woofer so low on the door. You don't have to locate the tweeters at ear level to get good imaging. I made some custom fiberglass kick panels for a Honda Civic and it sounded like the sound was come from the dash. I should add that kick panel mounted speakers in an SUV don't work very well.
If you are still interested in changing up your current setup, you should consider learning how to work with fiberglass ( if you don't already know how ) it will open up unlimited possibilities. I will attach a picture of a tweeter pod that I fabricated for my Dodge truck. It still needs to be finished sanded and painted.
Regards,
Matt
Attachments
first of all, I think you guys really know your stuff. so I use a 2 way crossover of my head unit and i have set the front rainbows on 63HZ@12 slope, 6x9 80@no slope (full) and sub 100 hz at 6 db slope. so sound is well balanced this took considerable testing to get too on my own. the fiberglass is the real thing and i thought one can't make it at home. now research begins.i heard a 3 -way rainbow platinum setup here and it was too midrange dominated for my taste. but it was active so maybe that could be controlled? I had this setup on the JBL GTO 1004 and the system actually came alive when I put it on the Germanium amp.. Boom! Good amps make aso much difference I could never believe. I always thought that amps don't have a lot to do as long as they are decent. The focal ES165KX3 comes with a mount for both tweeters and midrange. Make life simpler? or limits things? How are the 1650.3 mille legends compared to focals? can they be powered by the germanium? 105watt@4ohm. Let me look into fiberglass cause that would give me more flexibility. any links? no space for kick panels in my suv. midbass cannot move but the doors are thick and huge so thats cool. also 8 guage power cable is enough for each amp? main one is 4 guage pure copper and then it splits on a splitter.Thanks 🙂
I learned how to use fiberglass about 20 years ago from several books that I had checked out from the library. I highly recommend books if available. Videos are good after you've learned all the basics like safety, cloth types, resin types, and how to build molds, and much more.
Just checked out the Focal ES165KX3. All I can say is "Unbelievable" the price that is.
The 4 gauge split to 8 gauge is fine for the power that you're using.
Regards,
Matt
Just checked out the Focal ES165KX3. All I can say is "Unbelievable" the price that is.
The 4 gauge split to 8 gauge is fine for the power that you're using.
Regards,
Matt
"Just checked out the Focal ES165KX3. All I can say is "Unbelievable" the price that is. " lol! what does that mean? too expensive for what it does? can everyone name your favorite set of components that you would have in your car ?? Thanks
I had seen the nicer 2-way sets with crossovers and started to look for alternatives also.
What I wound up with is using components that I had already, which turned out to be a very nice combination imho. The tweeters are JBL 035, from way back, the main speaker is an Infinity car 6.5" (6032), with the tweeter disconnected.
The crossovers are a copy of a JBL 4406 studio monitor, using better air core inductors and polypropylene caps.
These are stealth mounted in the stock door locations, and work well. The doors were dynomatted and helped further with piece of high density polyethylene sheet mounted to the door around the speaker to help firm things up.
They are powered by a nakamichi pa-300 amp that is around 75w.
Hope this helps.
What I wound up with is using components that I had already, which turned out to be a very nice combination imho. The tweeters are JBL 035, from way back, the main speaker is an Infinity car 6.5" (6032), with the tweeter disconnected.
The crossovers are a copy of a JBL 4406 studio monitor, using better air core inductors and polypropylene caps.
These are stealth mounted in the stock door locations, and work well. The doors were dynomatted and helped further with piece of high density polyethylene sheet mounted to the door around the speaker to help firm things up.
They are powered by a nakamichi pa-300 amp that is around 75w.
Hope this helps.
I would love to see someone tell me they can hear the difference between a decent component set from Rockford or Pioneer or whatever at around 250.00 for the set verses a 600 to 800 dollar set. Of course someone will, SMH
I should mention that I am very cheap, my lovely wife says that I squeak when I walk 😉. My price for the 3-way Focals are about $2,300. For that kind of money I could build a very nice system.
My latest project I am using a SEAS neo tweeter and a 6.5 inch poly woofer from SB acoustics. DSP for crossover and time alignment. Should sound nice when I am done.
Regards,
Matt
Nakamichi pa 300 is supposed to be an awesome amp from what I have heard. How is he sound on the jbl tweeters? Im sure its great. I agree that price is no measure for sound quality and character and it more about how you install and tune it. Does anyone have a link t setting gains for the components on my four channel amp? I have been doing it by ear but its not very accurate. even with small changes on my germanium amp I cant seem to be getting it right. what tone (freq) should I tune for? Thanks.
This question is a trick. There is no single, proven way to twiddle knobs and make everything sound right. Many audio engineers have based their lives' work on what you ask. It is an endless pursuit of perfection in an imperfect environment.
How you set up your system is largely a matter of personal taste after a certain level of quality is attained. At different volume levels, the sound will change, so the first thing you need to define is your preferred volume level. At this volume level, everything will be balanced, and the alignment will drift as you get louder or quieter from the reference point. Some people like this reference to be 80 - 90 dB, others like 110+ dB levels.
Next comes the scientific methods. Set gain and crossover controls using pink noise and sweep tones using a measuring instrument with a good microphone. At the end, your ears can guide you, especially identifying sweep points where certain drivers swap dominance due to phase and crossover issues. To a good, experienced ear, major (and minor) issues can be identified (and solutions pondered) early on. For the rest of us, the microphone is a good judge.
After the response looks good on paper, comes the listening testing. Pick some tracks that you know well, and have heard many times on a variety of equipment. For me, I grew up in the 80's and 90's listening to rock, blues, punk, and metal. I have a few tracks I play through everything I align to identify strengths and weaknesses. At the end, the system tends to lend itself to one or two tracks over the others. For most, the setup is impressive enough not to need more time and money.
For the rest, I tell them to assemble some tracks they are extremely familiar with to play through the rig. We then do listening testing together, identifying strengths and shortcomings that arise, using common listening material. That way, we are on the same page as far as noticing subtle properties in the alignment. If they want something that doesn't necessarily belong, it is easier to identify and accommodate to fit their taste. Who am I to say the system should not have a 10 dB boost in response below, say 50 Hz? Not my ears, bowels, or interior that have to suffer. If it sounds right to them, it is right for them.
How you set up your system is largely a matter of personal taste after a certain level of quality is attained. At different volume levels, the sound will change, so the first thing you need to define is your preferred volume level. At this volume level, everything will be balanced, and the alignment will drift as you get louder or quieter from the reference point. Some people like this reference to be 80 - 90 dB, others like 110+ dB levels.
Next comes the scientific methods. Set gain and crossover controls using pink noise and sweep tones using a measuring instrument with a good microphone. At the end, your ears can guide you, especially identifying sweep points where certain drivers swap dominance due to phase and crossover issues. To a good, experienced ear, major (and minor) issues can be identified (and solutions pondered) early on. For the rest of us, the microphone is a good judge.
After the response looks good on paper, comes the listening testing. Pick some tracks that you know well, and have heard many times on a variety of equipment. For me, I grew up in the 80's and 90's listening to rock, blues, punk, and metal. I have a few tracks I play through everything I align to identify strengths and weaknesses. At the end, the system tends to lend itself to one or two tracks over the others. For most, the setup is impressive enough not to need more time and money.
For the rest, I tell them to assemble some tracks they are extremely familiar with to play through the rig. We then do listening testing together, identifying strengths and shortcomings that arise, using common listening material. That way, we are on the same page as far as noticing subtle properties in the alignment. If they want something that doesn't necessarily belong, it is easier to identify and accommodate to fit their taste. Who am I to say the system should not have a 10 dB boost in response below, say 50 Hz? Not my ears, bowels, or interior that have to suffer. If it sounds right to them, it is right for them.
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The JBL titanium tweeters are actually better off-axis, which is perfect for the stock location, and the time/distance between those and the drivers are very close. This helps maintain phase alignment. They sound like a high end home speaker should, more like a ribbon actually.
The nakamichi was a cl find, was $40 if I recall. I spent some time replacing all the mylar caps, and most of the electrolytics as well with better stuff. The crossovers are some Siemens/Matsushita polypropylene caps from a local surplus shop, and air coil inductors.
It sounds better than my other systems, didn't cost much to put together.
The OEM head unit has some tweaks too, which help.
I would invest the $2K wisely, and then go about making a stereo for your car, you'll thank yourself later.
As for setting gains, I try and go with the lowest gain setting on the power amp, and the highest on the preamp or head unit, turn up gradually as required. There may be a more scientific way to accomplish this, but this has worked for me.
The nakamichi was a cl find, was $40 if I recall. I spent some time replacing all the mylar caps, and most of the electrolytics as well with better stuff. The crossovers are some Siemens/Matsushita polypropylene caps from a local surplus shop, and air coil inductors.
It sounds better than my other systems, didn't cost much to put together.
The OEM head unit has some tweaks too, which help.
I would invest the $2K wisely, and then go about making a stereo for your car, you'll thank yourself later.
As for setting gains, I try and go with the lowest gain setting on the power amp, and the highest on the preamp or head unit, turn up gradually as required. There may be a more scientific way to accomplish this, but this has worked for me.
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Hi,
i’ve been re-captured by this site&forums, christmas holidays helped, and I also got captured by “loveofsound” nickname and his thread title request: “need amazing 6,5” compo’s”.
So, you loveofsound are looking for upgrading your car system and you say did check the web and found such a renowned brands compos as Hertz, Focal, Rainbow etc.
Reloader first and 5th Element soon after have given you replies driving you the right way to approach the problem solution: meaning to cool re-consider even different views for your goal.
5th Element, i know he cannot be wrong as too open-mind man, suggested you better evaluate a new plan than the classic 2way system for front stage (+sub). That’s quite a must in many “big” cars .., by the way, you shortly advise your one is a SUV, so which make and model?
Pls specify as this is quite the most important point to start, i guess, as you will put any of your precious components just in that car = environment, and that environment would let you hear & feel your music in a way or another: by the way, which kind of music is your preferred one?
These two info are quite crucial for a system plan&build.
You “loveofsound” do you have loveofmusic too? Yes, i guess, all of good music of course, hope not at all the one we hear nowadays by young kids :cybermusic, computerbuilt music, sequeuencer copy&paste one, full of silly effects like booms&cracks and thrills&frills as a firework fiesta!
3rd basic info: budget, and this one you provided, + or -.
In the 2nd page of thread you had more suggestions by “phase”, besides crash sceptic post, and by reloader too adding one more brand -Seas- to the already pointed out...while “jeff5may”, in my opinion, opens a radical new&wide window on audio experience for you to investigate.
But, still I do not see any reply, or comment, of yours at his invite... hope you will have some next days.
What I can suggest is do not choose for how much fame brand has acquired, you -we- are all dealing with an ARTISAN work and industrial products doesn’t marry so easily with: the more industrial a product is, the most artisan application needed for it to gain decent results
i’ve been re-captured by this site&forums, christmas holidays helped, and I also got captured by “loveofsound” nickname and his thread title request: “need amazing 6,5” compo’s”.
So, you loveofsound are looking for upgrading your car system and you say did check the web and found such a renowned brands compos as Hertz, Focal, Rainbow etc.
Reloader first and 5th Element soon after have given you replies driving you the right way to approach the problem solution: meaning to cool re-consider even different views for your goal.
5th Element, i know he cannot be wrong as too open-mind man, suggested you better evaluate a new plan than the classic 2way system for front stage (+sub). That’s quite a must in many “big” cars .., by the way, you shortly advise your one is a SUV, so which make and model?
Pls specify as this is quite the most important point to start, i guess, as you will put any of your precious components just in that car = environment, and that environment would let you hear & feel your music in a way or another: by the way, which kind of music is your preferred one?
These two info are quite crucial for a system plan&build.
You “loveofsound” do you have loveofmusic too? Yes, i guess, all of good music of course, hope not at all the one we hear nowadays by young kids :cybermusic, computerbuilt music, sequeuencer copy&paste one, full of silly effects like booms&cracks and thrills&frills as a firework fiesta!
3rd basic info: budget, and this one you provided, + or -.
In the 2nd page of thread you had more suggestions by “phase”, besides crash sceptic post, and by reloader too adding one more brand -Seas- to the already pointed out...while “jeff5may”, in my opinion, opens a radical new&wide window on audio experience for you to investigate.
But, still I do not see any reply, or comment, of yours at his invite... hope you will have some next days.
What I can suggest is do not choose for how much fame brand has acquired, you -we- are all dealing with an ARTISAN work and industrial products doesn’t marry so easily with: the more industrial a product is, the most artisan application needed for it to gain decent results
So, you loveofsound are looking for upgrading your car system and you say did check the web and found such a renowned brands compos as Hertz, Focal, Rainbow etc.
Reloader first and 5th Element soon after have given you replies driving you the right way to approach the problem solution: meaning to cool re-consider even different views for your goal.
5th Element, i know he cannot be wrong as too open-mind man, suggested you better evaluate a new plan than the classic 2way system for front stage (+sub). That’s quite a must in many “big” cars .., by the way, you shortly advise your one is a SUV, so which make and model?
Pls specify as this is quite the most important point to start, i guess, as you will put any of your precious components just in that car = environment, and that environment would let you hear & feel your music in a way or another: by the way, which kind of music is your preferred one?
These two info are quite crucial for a system plan&build.
You “loveofsound” do you have loveofmusic too? Yes, i guess, all of good music of course, hope not at all the one we hear nowadays by young kids :cybermusic, computerbuilt music, sequeuencer copy&paste one, full of silly effects like booms&cracks and thrills&frills as a firework fiesta!
3rd basic info: budget, and this one you provided, + or -.
In the 2nd page of thread you had more suggestions by “phase”, besides crash sceptic post, and by reloader too adding one more brand -Seas- to the already pointed out...while “jeff5may”, in my opinion, opens a radical new&wide window on audio experience for you to investigate.
But, still I do not see any reply, or comment, of yours at his invite... hope you will have some next days.
What I can suggest is do not choose for how much fame brand has acquired, you -we- are all dealing with an ARTISAN work and industrial products doesn’t marry so easily with: the more industrial a product is, the most artisan application needed for it to gain decent results
i’ve been re-captured by this site&forums, christmas holidays helped, and I also got captured by “loveofsound” nickname and his thread title request: “need amazing 6,5” compo’s”.
So, you loveofsound are looking for upgrading your car system and you say did check the web and found such a renowned brands compos as Hertz, Focal, Rainbow etc.
Reloader first and 5th Element soon after have given you replies driving you the right way to approach the problem solution: meaning to cool re-consider even different views for your goal.
5th Element, i know he cannot be wrong as too open-mind man, suggested you better evaluate a new plan than the classic 2way system for front stage (+sub). That’s quite a must in many “big” cars .., by the way, you shortly advise your one is a SUV, so which make and model?
Pls specify as this is quite the most important point to start, i guess, as you will put any of your precious components just in that car = environment, and that environment would let you hear & feel your music in a way or another: by the way, which kind of music is your preferred one?
These two info are quite crucial for a system plan&build.
You “loveofsound” do you have loveofmusic too? Yes, i guess, all of good music of course, hope not at all the one we hear nowadays by young kids :cybermusic, computerbuilt music, sequeuencer copy&paste one, full of silly effects like booms&cracks and thrills&frills as a firework fiesta!
3rd basic info: budget, and this one you provided, + or -.
In the 2nd page of thread you had more suggestions by “phase”, besides crash sceptic post, and by reloader too adding one more brand -Seas- to the already pointed out...while “jeff5may”, in my opinion, opens a radical new&wide window on audio experience for you to investigate.
But, still I do not see any reply, or comment, of yours at his invite... hope you will have some next days.
What I can suggest is do not choose for how much fame brand has acquired, you -we- are all dealing with an ARTISAN work and industrial products doesn’t marry so easily with: the more industrial a product is, the most artisan application needed for it to gain decent results
Thanks guys. Jeff, reloader, phase, 5th element and everyone else. this phase has me going crazy and I recently met a friend who knows his **** so should sort it out. it seems I'm in need of a bass upgrade more than a set of components. the rainbows are pretty damn good for now. the bass is lacking and slow. its a vented RF punch P1. although its loud and good its a bit loose even at 80 hz and 12 db slope. so going to first get a nice sub 12" in a sealed? cant go IB as I have a open trunk. I now fade away my 6x9's in the back and I think that sounds clearer though I did get the Dreamline's to match the sound line pro's. So thats the first deal. I agree with Manlog about not going with major brand names but concentrating more on smaller brands that pay more attention to detail and sound signature. Interested to get Gladen Zero Pro 12" sub or a Kicker Q series? and eventually a set of Gladen Aerospace or Zero Pro components though I have never heard them before. time correction has made a lot of difference and i have moved the tweeters to a lower position which has blended the whole spectrum of sound much better. think I'll go for sealed enclosure. you guys think one sub is enough? thanks. oh and I changed my RCA's to AIV Arctic and it made a decent amount of difference in the highs.
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