Hi,
I'm hoping someone can recommend a replacement relay for my NAD 326BEE to correct a problem with one channel cutting out, assuming that's actually my issue.
Background: I bought the amp used about a year ago. It was fairly pristine, but I still cleaned all the pots with Deoxit, checked for suspect caps, etc. It worked flawlessly for a while. Unfortunately, it developed an issue where one channel, mostly the left, would cut out on me. Fiddling with the volume knob a bit usually brought the channel back, so I assumed the pot was still dirty since it's motorized, almost completely sealed, and barely possible to get spray into. I tried cleaning it out again, and the problem disappeared, but returned about a week or so later. I'm not sure if cleaning it actually did anything, or it was just a coincidence that it stopped for an unusually long time afterwards. It's a very inconsistent issue, and impossible to replicate on demand. I finally got fed up enough to do some deeper research into it, but I can't seem to find any analogous problems specific to my exact model. I have, however, seen multiple mentions of issues with the NAD 306, which stemmed from an output relay that seemed prone to going bad, as is referenced in this thread. I figured it might be worth a shot to try swapping out the relay to see if it solves the issue permanently. Unfortunately, I can't find an exact duplicate of the current relay anywhere but an eBay retailer in China that's going to take over 6 weeks to get it to me. I've replaced relays before, but there was always an exact replacement available, so I'm hoping someone can recommend a product listing for a compatible relay at a Web site in the US with a more reasonable estimated arrival time. In case there's some issue with the attached image, the relay in question is a Massuse ME-11 with the text 012-2H4 and 8A250VAC. I believe the data sheet for the relay can be seen here. I'd really appreciate any suggestions for a replacement source, or any other suggestions on what the possible culprit might be. Thanks in advance.
I'm hoping someone can recommend a replacement relay for my NAD 326BEE to correct a problem with one channel cutting out, assuming that's actually my issue.
Background: I bought the amp used about a year ago. It was fairly pristine, but I still cleaned all the pots with Deoxit, checked for suspect caps, etc. It worked flawlessly for a while. Unfortunately, it developed an issue where one channel, mostly the left, would cut out on me. Fiddling with the volume knob a bit usually brought the channel back, so I assumed the pot was still dirty since it's motorized, almost completely sealed, and barely possible to get spray into. I tried cleaning it out again, and the problem disappeared, but returned about a week or so later. I'm not sure if cleaning it actually did anything, or it was just a coincidence that it stopped for an unusually long time afterwards. It's a very inconsistent issue, and impossible to replicate on demand. I finally got fed up enough to do some deeper research into it, but I can't seem to find any analogous problems specific to my exact model. I have, however, seen multiple mentions of issues with the NAD 306, which stemmed from an output relay that seemed prone to going bad, as is referenced in this thread. I figured it might be worth a shot to try swapping out the relay to see if it solves the issue permanently. Unfortunately, I can't find an exact duplicate of the current relay anywhere but an eBay retailer in China that's going to take over 6 weeks to get it to me. I've replaced relays before, but there was always an exact replacement available, so I'm hoping someone can recommend a product listing for a compatible relay at a Web site in the US with a more reasonable estimated arrival time. In case there's some issue with the attached image, the relay in question is a Massuse ME-11 with the text 012-2H4 and 8A250VAC. I believe the data sheet for the relay can be seen here. I'd really appreciate any suggestions for a replacement source, or any other suggestions on what the possible culprit might be. Thanks in advance.
Attachments
put a temp link across relay contacts and see if it still cuts out.
there is plenty of info on that relay with google search.
there is plenty of info on that relay with google search.
Replace for a 12 or 16A rated quality relay with silver or hard silver contacts suitable for capacitive and inductive loads. The ones made by TE Connectivity/Schrack are very good. It is simple: if you spend a few $ more you will have a relay that will not fail in many years to come. There are versions with Wolfram pre-contacts for the first surge current and then the silver contacts will be in parallel. The audiophiles wet dream 🙂
Manufacturers try to lower costs by using mediocre quality relays that work a few years. In older equipment from Japan often gold plated contact relays were used that are totally inadequate to use for switching current. So the problems with channels cutting out are old and they also still occur.
Designing a reliable relay is no simple task. Choice of materials also is relevant which is something skimped on in cheap parts. You will have to use one from a reputable brand and type/series with silver contacts and preferably with bifurcated contacts too. The challenge is to find an exact replacement with regards to pins and form factor but that is such a nice task that I leave that to you 😉
https://www.mouser.de/datasheet/2/418/5/NG_DS_RT1_Inrush_Power_1217-736195.pdf
Manufacturers try to lower costs by using mediocre quality relays that work a few years. In older equipment from Japan often gold plated contact relays were used that are totally inadequate to use for switching current. So the problems with channels cutting out are old and they also still occur.
Designing a reliable relay is no simple task. Choice of materials also is relevant which is something skimped on in cheap parts. You will have to use one from a reputable brand and type/series with silver contacts and preferably with bifurcated contacts too. The challenge is to find an exact replacement with regards to pins and form factor but that is such a nice task that I leave that to you 😉
https://www.mouser.de/datasheet/2/418/5/NG_DS_RT1_Inrush_Power_1217-736195.pdf
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Here is a relay that appears to be a direct replacement.
RT444012 TE Connectivity / Schrack | Mouser
Please compare the specifications and especially the physical dimensions and pin functions to confirm that it is a direct substitute.
RT444012 TE Connectivity / Schrack | Mouser
Please compare the specifications and especially the physical dimensions and pin functions to confirm that it is a direct substitute.
Thanks VERY much for the replies, all. They've been a HUGE help in figuring things out. I think I found a suitable replacement that should arrive some time next week. I'll try to report back on whether or not it corrects the issue once it's in. 🙂
Hi Malvos, I have exactly the same issue with my NAD 326 BEE. Did the new relay work for you? I've tried contact cleaner which is a short-term fix only, and was considering trying to source replacement volume and balance pots. Many thanks!
Is the NAD 326 similiar to the NAD320. If so, try running it with the cover off. My 320 has a linear regulator 38dc in, 18vdc out. It runs hot because the cover is not adequately vented. I had to install a 337 pre-regulator to spread some heat to the side of the chassis. The volume was fluctuating intermittentlly before the fix, now it is stable.
@JezzerK
Same issues cropped in my NAD C352, after 5+yrs of moderate use.
multiple culprits- balance control pot failure, tone defeat switch contact issues and the Class A pre-amp section had dry solder +browning of PCB trackside due to inadequate heatsink size .
You can remove jumpers from the backside pre - mains input and directly connectyour source eg mobile BUT NOT YOUR CD PLAYER! ) to main power amp , bypassing all input controls (BE VERY CAREFUL , VOLUME WILL BE AT FULL!) Keep volume control of source at very low level and don't fiddle with cables whIile the unit is ON. Isolate problems from start to end of signal chain.
PM me if you are still unsure
Same issues cropped in my NAD C352, after 5+yrs of moderate use.
multiple culprits- balance control pot failure, tone defeat switch contact issues and the Class A pre-amp section had dry solder +browning of PCB trackside due to inadequate heatsink size .
You can remove jumpers from the backside pre - mains input and directly connectyour source eg mobile BUT NOT YOUR CD PLAYER! ) to main power amp , bypassing all input controls (BE VERY CAREFUL , VOLUME WILL BE AT FULL!) Keep volume control of source at very low level and don't fiddle with cables whIile the unit is ON. Isolate problems from start to end of signal chain.
PM me if you are still unsure
@fubar3
I installed 4 PC cooling fans from the inner side of the top cover , you can power it by 6 to 12V wallwartThanks @fubar3 and @availlyrics , that's useful. I just wonder if anyone has managed to source replacement balance/volume pots for the 326BEE? The amp worked well for about 10 years, and even now a squirt of pot cleaner fixes the channel drop-out for a while...
Original bass/ treble balance pots, switches were of very cheap quality , like elcheapo 0.25$ Chinese stuff. I just replaced balance with 10k+10K resistor for L/R and shorted tracks of the tone defeat switch after reomving it, didn't bother to replace it. Volume pot is of good quality , didnt face any issues with it since past 18 yrs nor with any relays. I sprayed WD40 in front input selector switches (cheap 0.1$ stuff) after amp dissassembly , working OK
In short , you can replace balance pot with any good quality 20K linear pot
In short , you can replace balance pot with any good quality 20K linear pot
I changed with this one:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/2935373196...5zzqKszRfG&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY
You have to rework the shaft but it is pretty easy 🙂