N-channel Amp

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I've no experience with the amp, but looking at the schematic I can tell you that the cost of the power supply and heatsinking will be very expensive (you may well have access to the parts at low cost). As you are planning to use this amp for the specific purpose of sub driving you might well consider an alternative in the form of a pro amp.
The QSC plx series, the highest 3 models being 2 stage class H amps, with (heaven forbid) switching ferroressonant switching power supplies are ideally suited for this task.
The plx2402 will deliver 700 watts stereo into 4 ohms and 2400 into 4ohms bridged, all in a 22lb package.
The reason I'm passing this on to you is the review by someone I trust, Brian Cheney.

The plx series is the non touring version of the pl2 models, same circutry, I've checked, and you can download the schematics.
They are available from Markertek.com

I don't know if you're in the states, but for this specific application, you might get better results. I certainly don't wish to dissuade anyone from diy, but for a sub amp?

Best of luck, however you proceed,

I have built the N-channel amplifier. I designed my own PCB. In fact, I have been wanting to build this amplifier from about 1995. The original circuit was proposed by Bengt Olson in Electronics World. Anthony has replaced the original cascoded front end with a simple differential topology. Further, the latest design updates, reducing dissipation in the regulator (LM317), replacing the temperature sensing transistor with a MOSFET (IRF610) and adding current equalising resistors for the output stage have made this amplifier indeed reliable and robust.

The sonics of this amplifier are without doubt second to none. The bass is punchy and deep without getting blurred. The mids and highs are equally resolved and the overall soundstage is very upfront. By this I mean it is not laid back as in some other amplifiers in my experience; but a forward soundstage in this case, does not mean it grates on the listeners ears, as certain amplifiers with relatively higher levels of IMD and TIM tend to sound.

I would highly recommend this amplifier for a subwoofer application. If you can afford it, don't skimp on the power supply.

All the best.
First of all, I am not aware as to how to upload stuff on to the web. BTW my PCB was for the old version, but it is fairly easy to incorporate the revisions, although the board may not look as neat. I make PCBs using graph paper and then transfering the layout on to the copper clad board, I hand-paint with enamel paint. However, since I have a pretty good hand, the PCBs look as though they have been designed and made using computer aided methods, unless you have a similar board made, to do an AB check.

A guy called Dexter on this forum posted his layout to me but I was just not able to open it using Winzip.
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