My New Concept

[slowikpl]

Well, some monts are passed. Im pleased with my speakers , and now they are at paintjob.

They will look like this: https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-...AAAAdnw/NY1TJK3NlrA/w882-h1219-no/Kolumny.jpg

I have now ordered
2x Duelund CAST Pio 8.2uF and
2x 2.2uF Duelund CAST Pio ( Very Expensive stuff)
And do not know if I will use as bypass in the Mids the 8.2uF or the 2.2uF:

The one solution for tweeter is :

1 X 8.2 uF Duelund Cast Pio
1 X 2.2 uF Audyn True Copper
1 X 1 uF Mundorf SO
1 X 1 uF Mundorf SGO

Or other:
1 X 8.2 uF Mundorf SO
1 X 2.2 uF Duelund CAST Pio
1 X 1 uF Mundorf SO
1 X 1 uF Mundorf SGO





Midds:

Capacotors: 94.4uF
Jantzen 12WG 0.5mH
Zobel : 3.3 uF Mundorf SGO + 6.2 Ohm Duelund CAST
L-PAD : 3 Ohm Duelund CAST and 6 Ohm Duelund CAST


1 X 40 uF Duelund VSF-CU
2 X 10 uF Mundorf SO
1 X 10 uF Mundorf SGO
1X 10 uF Mundorf SG
2 X 5 uF Rike Audio sCap
1 X 2.2 uF Auden True Copper
1 X 2.2 uF Duelund Cast Pio

Totaal: 94.4 uF





Tweeter:

1 X 8.2 uF Duelund Cast Pio
1 X 2.2 uF Audyn True Copper
2 X 1 uF Mundorf SO
1 X 1 uF Mundorf SGO

Totaal: 12.4 uF




Bass : Janzen 8WG 2.3mH
Bass Zobel: 31.6uF + 4.7Ohm Duelund

2 X 10 uF Mundorf SO
1 X 5 uF Rike Audio sCap
2 X 2.2 uF Mundorf SO
1 X 2.2 uF Audyn True Copper

Totaal: 31.6 uF



Leftover:

2 X 8.2 Mundorf SO

Jantzens Superior :

2x 12uF
2x 3.3 uF
2x 15 uF
2x 2.7 uF

An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.

 

[Cousin Billy]

Hellow Slow

And I thought I was the crazy one.

Great assortment of crossover parts. The Accutons really do need the best to shine. ANY combination you put forth will work. You just need to listen and figure out what's best for you.

I love the color scheme you've chosen. I think my next build will use the same.

Cousin Billy

 

[slowikpl]

Picture : https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-...AAAAAdqY/8_4ySA4hCLU/w1082-h1672/kolumny1.jpg

 

[slowikpl]

Hellow Slow

That first speaker turned out quite nice. My fatal flaw was wave guiding the Accuton Diamond tweeter (BD25). It wasn't until I spoke with Earl Geddes that I realized wave guiding is more for domed tweeters. The flaw was something I heard, but a fellow audiophile loved them. They are in a good home, and appreciated.

The first speaker was also quite large. My wife wouldn't allow them anywhere but the basement, hence the redesign.

A few minor quibbles by me;

1) When I originally designed the C173 with the BD25, I chose 2500Hz as a crossover point. At loud volumes I could hear the tweeters 'stressing'. Considering their cost, I didn't want to ruin them.

2) When I raised the crossover point to 2800Hz, the tweeters where happy, but I now heard something in the midrange. I suspect your C30 will crossover much more smoothly with the C173. At that point I decided to switch to the slightly smaller C158. My crossover point is just above 3000Hz.

3) The original didn't use Duelund Cast Pio's for the tweeter caps. With this new speaker there is room in the crossover compartment for the larger size caps. Please Please Please consider the Duelunds for your tweeters. On the Diamond Accuton's they are heads and shoulders above my original Mundorf Silver/Oil.

4) This final point should be left out. I cannot listen to CD's. This was true of the first DIY speaker, and even more so using Duelund Caps with this new speaker. SACD is very good (EMM Labs CDSA se), but vinyl is truly spectacular. Unfortunately my album collection shrunk with this new speaker. Audiophile recordings are to die for, and so so recordings not so good. It's as if you can hear the recording mistakes/flaws.

Starting to hate this hobby,............, maybe I should set up my mid fi system at the cottage?.

Hi Cusin.

I'm now upgrading my xo.
Can you tell me please if for the total amount of 12.4-12.6uF Wil be enough :

Duelund Cast Pio of :

2.2uF or 8.2 or even I should buy another 2.2uF and make for the tweeter all Duelund. Have you make those kind of test?

I want to do for the tweeter only 2.2uF or in the worst case 8.2uF and the leftovers of duelund Cast move to the middle C173.

What you think guys?!

 

[Cousin Billy]

Slow

I need more information. Can you send me a private message. I need to see your crossover.
Most of the modeled crossovers I used where lacking. I've learned a few things over the last 7 years.

Cusin

 

[Bill poster]

Bloody hell, possibly the best speakers I've seen on this forum! The rear curving is really perfect, must weigh a ton!

Those accuton mid bass units - Instead of using ceramic tweets wd be interesting to match with the new carbon fibre tweets from TLabs, think they wd look pretty cool together (and also wd mean a lower x/o point).

BTW Have you tried Rike caps?

 

[slowikpl]

The *** of my speakers is not that heavy . maybe 20-25 Kilo. Is like a kanu

I have not tested the Rike - Caps , I was only advised by Tony from Humble Homade HiFi. I will test them soon in the Mids. It I can hear them 10uF in the whole 94uF capacity.

 

[slowikpl]

Do you guysthink that I will be better off if I use all my Duelund stuff in the tweeter , or best to split them with the middle tone?

1.What I want to do was the Mundorf 8.2uF SO + 1uF SGO + Duelund Cast Pio 2.2uF

Or

2.Duelund Cast Pio 8.2 + Audyn True Copper 2.2uF + Mundorf SGO 1uF

3.Duelund Cast Pio 8.2 + Duelund Cast Pio 2.2uF + Mundorf SGO 1uF

What will be the best option?

 

[slowikpl]

Hi Guys. This weekend I will be on the Finish line of the work on my Sarcophagus - speakers. (Photos soon )

I need advice about bypass.

In the treble I have got Duelund Cast 8.2uF and want to combine this with Silver Mica of 0.01uF. Will this be beter or should I better lieve Duelund on this own. Does anybody have any experience on this ?

 

[slowikpl]

My Sarcophagus - speakers are Ready running 2 weeks

The sound is like very clean. I thing that it have to be Burn-in. I played now for about 80hrs.

My Diy Pass labs XJ 70W is after modernisation to JFETS , not so musical as it was before.


https://photos.google.com/share/AF1...?key=enFqVko0d0JtdUJXWUFXZl9UWmZHRU5TcUt1ZzBR


https://goo.gl/photos/8S9h7DVeE2s4Toeq5
https://goo.gl/photos/TqfsTVjDK3bzzJGd7
https://goo.gl/photos/rskGNZ3L3wMxPwwY7
https://goo.gl/photos/mpqb63hrNZXiLLrW8



For the mids i used:

40uF Duelund VSF
11uF Mundorf Silver/GOld /Oil
18,2uF Mundorf Silver/Gold
24,2uF Mundorf Silver/Oil
Silver-Mica Bypass
Charcroft Z-Foil and S-Foil Resistor 82kOhm

Zobel:

2,2uF Dulelund Cast
3,3uF Mundorf Silver/Gold/Oil

For The Tweeter:

8,2uF Duelund CAST
Silver-Mica Bypass
Charcroft Z-Foil and S-Foil Resistor 82kOhm

For Bass:

33uF Mundorf Silver/Oil Zobel.

 

[acstcwrfrmn]

Anybody using the Accuton C158's with a notch filter? I am trying to decide between the C158-8-085 or the C158-6-851. The 8 Ohm version is probably better in the mids, the 6 Ohm is probably better in the bass. I want a 2-way using the Aurum Cantus AMT. OK, what I REALLY want is the expensive C173-6-096E ($900) with the RAAL 70*** ($450+) BUT, we'll stick to the cheaper versions. I would like to crossover as high as possible but avoiding any nastys dur to the break-ups so I was thinking a notch at about 4KHz would work better than say a 3rd order low-pass. Anybody try any of these? Results and impressions??? Thanks!

 

[orangeart]

I like the look of those, real pro finish.

Did you just model the crossover ? There wasn't much info on how you arrived at your eye wateringly expensive XO

 

[andy19191]

I want a 2-way using the Aurum Cantus AMT. OK, what I REALLY want is the expensive C173-6-096E ($900) with the RAAL 70*** ($450+) BUT, we'll stick to the cheaper versions.

What is attractive about 2 ways using expensive drivers? I am not having a dig but genuinely interested in something that seems to be both fairly popular and a bit baffling to me.

I would like to crossover as high as possible but avoiding any nastys dur to the break-ups so I was thinking a notch at about 4KHz would work better than say a 3rd order low-pass.

To avoid the the nasties from the the 3rd harmonic distortion shown in the specification I guess you are looking to cross at about 800Hz or so but that would be a 3 way. So I guess if you want a 2 way you will have to live with a compromised midrange like other 2 ways.

 

[acstcwrfrmn]

What is attractive about 2 ways using expensive drivers? I am not having a dig but genuinely interested in something that seems to be both fairly popular and a bit baffling to me.


To avoid the the nasties from the the 3rd harmonic distortion shown in the specification I guess you are looking to cross at about 800Hz or so but that would be a 3 way. So I guess if you want a 2 way you will have to live with a compromised midrange like other 2 ways.

I actually do prefer 3-ways especially when the mids can do about 300 to over 4000Hz. For this particular idea; I would be doing a small office size closed box 2-way. I am retired and therefore have literally dozens of different design ideas weekly! Of course, buying the drivers and everything else and actually building anything is somewhat rare. The question here is I'm looking for notch vs 3rd order Xover for the Accuton C158's. I know there are designs already out there. I do ALL of my own designs and don't copy anyone else BUT, it's nice to get ideas on what DOESN'T work (so as to not repeat someone else's mistake!). This is my primary reason for joining in on these chats; staying away from drivers and crossover devices that don't perform very well (at every price point). Thanks for any other insights, info, etc.!

 

[slowikpl]

Hi all,

Many months passed , and test been done on my XO and the final is here:

An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.

An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.

I have some questions , if you have time I will appreciate if you have any time to answer those. Or maybe suggestions.

I`m back from second order XO for the tweeter to first order XO. That sounds best for me.
I`m testing now for my C30 Accuton on Duelund CAST 8.2uF + 1uF and 0.01uF ( I have some spare Duelunds so I will test it more and add some more ) any advice ?
And how about the Diamond Tweeter. Is this that much better then ceramic ?

I have also done some bypass 100kOhm on my caps and resistors, but this was nothing special. Maybe I will test it again later on. Have you any experiences on this ? Bypassing all with 100kOhm resistors on Caps and Resistors? Tony form humble site dit so to add some “peace, rest” to the sound.

I`m now buying 50uF Cast for my Middleton speaker ( so all will be Duelund: 54uF Cast + 40uF VSF). Tony from Humble have sayed to me to inverd the phase on my middleton speaker for beter frequence response. Connect plus pole to min Pole. But for my taste the Bass slam is lost if I do this on my Speakers. So I left the Middleton speaker connected not in inverted phase. And Bass is now deep as i like it. Did you ever test it? ( see diagram )
Maybe i shuld test invert the phase on the Tweeter?

[url=http://postimg.org/image/8s60q61jh/][IMGDEAD]http://s30.postimg.org/8s60q61jh/mid_in_fase_aangesloten.jpg[/IMGDEAD][/url]

[url=http://postimg.org/image/g6vcijnf1/]

[IMGDEAD]http://s30.postimg.org/g6vcijnf1/mid_uit_fase_aangesloten.jpg[/IMGDEAD][/url]

I have also upgraded my internal cables with some Western Electric WE16GA.



My XO looks now like this :

An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.

In the red Box on the XO i have tested and this things dident sound good to me. ( Only dident testet on the Bass what is in the red box )


I`m missing some smoothness on my Tweeters and high-mids.

 

[billshurv]

I can't help you, all I can do is envy your disposable income!

First order crossovers you keep in phase. second order you invert phase as a general rule of thumb.

A test microphone is a really good investment.

 

[badman]

Beautiful work, truly.

 

[Bill poster]

If you post the schematic on PE tech talk you might well get some constructive replies as the guys there really know their X/O stuff

 

[system7]

Robert, since you asked me to look in, I'll add some brief thoughts.

The Classic 3 way uses much steeper filters than you here:

A typical implementation of Steen Duelund's ideas here:
SEAS-3-Way-Classic

Shallower filters can use the SEAS 503 ideas:

http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/multi-way/279278-4-way-series-crossover-accuton-acoustic-elegance-drivers-12.html#post4525459

Needs a good mid, or TWO!

 

[slowikpl]

Hello All,

Thanks to all for the kind words and tips.

I`m now joined the PE Tech talk , but cant figure out how can I post on this site. I have to wait I suppose.

System7 :
Thank you for the effort and I will have to invest many , many hours to make my onwn 2nd order XO.
This will be my first one I will design by myself. I will post my material here.


Is there any simpeler program than boxsim - visaton for XO design. If not then are somewhere data do download for my drivers : ?

ACCUTON C173-6-090
ACCUTON C30-6-023 (C23-6)
Seas L26RFX/P