Hello All ,
Those are my second Diy Speakers.
Drivers:
ACCUTON C173-6-090
ACCUTON C30-6-024
Seas L26RFX/P (2 pcs x box)
Cable: Kimber 8TC
All Pictures: ImageShack Album - 26 images
Those are my second Diy Speakers.
Drivers:
ACCUTON C173-6-090
ACCUTON C30-6-024
Seas L26RFX/P (2 pcs x box)
Cable: Kimber 8TC
All Pictures: ImageShack Album - 26 images
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Last edited:
Thank you all.
I have planned those speakers for 1 year. The concept is like : XTZ 100.49
Only the tweeter is from Accuton. I hope those speakers will sound better then the XTZ 100.49.
Now the speakers are going to have crossover. First for test will use the mundorf MCap. Later on in 3-6 months i will use for the final the MCap
SUPREME SILVER/GOLD. I know those are expensive but i know too that it will upgrade allot my Accutons and maybe my Seas.
Now they will remain like 6 months in unpainted stage for the glue to dry.
Stay tuned.
I have planned those speakers for 1 year. The concept is like : XTZ 100.49
Only the tweeter is from Accuton. I hope those speakers will sound better then the XTZ 100.49.
Now the speakers are going to have crossover. First for test will use the mundorf MCap. Later on in 3-6 months i will use for the final the MCap
SUPREME SILVER/GOLD. I know those are expensive but i know too that it will upgrade allot my Accutons and maybe my Seas.
Now they will remain like 6 months in unpainted stage for the glue to dry.
Stay tuned.
Hi,
What wood glue are you using that takes 6 months to dry ?
What wood glue is effected by whether the cabinets are painted or not ?
There is a lot more to x/o design than picking expensive components.
rgds, sreten.
What wood glue are you using that takes 6 months to dry ?
What wood glue is effected by whether the cabinets are painted or not ?
There is a lot more to x/o design than picking expensive components.
rgds, sreten.
Sorry my misthake. Not the glue but the Wood have to be good dry. And the xo is done on Simulation before the building the box. And in 1 week will be thaken in Sound room to do the listenings and messurments for fine tuning.
[/QUOTE]
Ancient Egyptian Sarcophagus?
Ancient Egyptian Sarcophagus?
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
[/QUOTE]Great Job, they look fantastic.
My first DIY was very close, I used the SEAS aluminum 10" (can't remember which model #)
My second is using the Accuton 5.5" C158 instead of the C173, and a powered 15" woofer.
Isn't this a fun hobby.
My first DIY was very close, I used the SEAS aluminum 10" (can't remember which model #)
My second is using the Accuton 5.5" C158 instead of the C173, and a powered 15" woofer.
Isn't this a fun hobby.
Attachments
Great Job, they look fantastic.
My first DIY was very close, I used the SEAS aluminum 10" (can't remember which model #)
My second is using the Accuton 5.5" C158 instead of the C173, and a powered 15" woofer.
Isn't this a fun hobby.
Hi Billy,
Your first DIY was indeed almost the same.I know the Accuton 5.5" C158 , but i want to use the Accuton C30-6-023 and on the Simulation software the C173-6-90 was the better driver to go with.
May i ask why did you buld a seccond great box ? Was the first not so good ? How did they sound ? What tweeter did you use ?
I hoop mine second box "The Sarcophagus " 😉 will be the final box. And will serve me many pleasant years.
Hellow Slow
That first speaker turned out quite nice. My fatal flaw was wave guiding the Accuton Diamond tweeter (BD25). It wasn't until I spoke with Earl Geddes that I realized wave guiding is more for domed tweeters. The flaw was something I heard, but a fellow audiophile loved them. They are in a good home, and appreciated.
The first speaker was also quite large. My wife wouldn't allow them anywhere but the basement, hence the redesign.
A few minor quibbles by me;
1) When I originally designed the C173 with the BD25, I chose 2500Hz as a crossover point. At loud volumes I could hear the tweeters 'stressing'. Considering their cost, I didn't want to ruin them.
2) When I raised the crossover point to 2800Hz, the tweeters where happy, but I now heard something in the midrange. I suspect your C30 will crossover much more smoothly with the C173. At that point I decided to switch to the slightly smaller C158. My crossover point is just above 3000Hz.
3) The original didn't use Duelund Cast Pio's for the tweeter caps. With this new speaker there is room in the crossover compartment for the larger size caps. Please Please Please consider the Duelunds for your tweeters. On the Diamond Accuton's they are heads and shoulders above my original Mundorf Silver/Oil.
4) This final point should be left out. I cannot listen to CD's. This was true of the first DIY speaker, and even more so using Duelund Caps with this new speaker. SACD is very good (EMM Labs CDSA se), but vinyl is truly spectacular. Unfortunately my album collection shrunk with this new speaker. Audiophile recordings are to die for, and so so recordings not so good. It's as if you can hear the recording mistakes/flaws.
Starting to hate this hobby,............, maybe I should set up my mid fi system at the cottage?.
That first speaker turned out quite nice. My fatal flaw was wave guiding the Accuton Diamond tweeter (BD25). It wasn't until I spoke with Earl Geddes that I realized wave guiding is more for domed tweeters. The flaw was something I heard, but a fellow audiophile loved them. They are in a good home, and appreciated.
The first speaker was also quite large. My wife wouldn't allow them anywhere but the basement, hence the redesign.
A few minor quibbles by me;
1) When I originally designed the C173 with the BD25, I chose 2500Hz as a crossover point. At loud volumes I could hear the tweeters 'stressing'. Considering their cost, I didn't want to ruin them.
2) When I raised the crossover point to 2800Hz, the tweeters where happy, but I now heard something in the midrange. I suspect your C30 will crossover much more smoothly with the C173. At that point I decided to switch to the slightly smaller C158. My crossover point is just above 3000Hz.
3) The original didn't use Duelund Cast Pio's for the tweeter caps. With this new speaker there is room in the crossover compartment for the larger size caps. Please Please Please consider the Duelunds for your tweeters. On the Diamond Accuton's they are heads and shoulders above my original Mundorf Silver/Oil.
4) This final point should be left out. I cannot listen to CD's. This was true of the first DIY speaker, and even more so using Duelund Caps with this new speaker. SACD is very good (EMM Labs CDSA se), but vinyl is truly spectacular. Unfortunately my album collection shrunk with this new speaker. Audiophile recordings are to die for, and so so recordings not so good. It's as if you can hear the recording mistakes/flaws.
Starting to hate this hobby,............, maybe I should set up my mid fi system at the cottage?.
What are the two circular and one rectangular openings at the wider end of the cabinet?
How about the section that is a smooth concave recess that fits to the back of the cabinet? What is the purpose of that? It's that back part that really gives it the "sarcophagus" -look.
curious,
Pete
How about the section that is a smooth concave recess that fits to the back of the cabinet? What is the purpose of that? It's that back part that really gives it the "sarcophagus" -look.
curious,
Pete
Slow
My wife and I have been listening for a few hours.
NO combination of caps on the midrange didn't destroy the 'openness' of the C158. We have Cast Pio's, VSF, Mundorf Silver/oil, etc.
Do yourself a favor, run the midrange with no high pass cap. Listen, then add the cap. Let me know if you agree, or if my wife and I have just had too much red wine?.
My wife and I have been listening for a few hours.
NO combination of caps on the midrange didn't destroy the 'openness' of the C158. We have Cast Pio's, VSF, Mundorf Silver/oil, etc.
Do yourself a favor, run the midrange with no high pass cap. Listen, then add the cap. Let me know if you agree, or if my wife and I have just had too much red wine?.
Slow
My wife and I have been listening for a few hours.
NO combination of caps on the midrange didn't destroy the 'openness' of the C158. We have Cast Pio's, VSF, Mundorf Silver/oil, etc.
Do yourself a favor, run the midrange with no high pass cap. Listen, then add the cap. Let me know if you agree, or if my wife and I have just had too much red wine?.
The midrange then has to play a lot lower and handle a lot more power- pretty risky with such a small and pricey mid.
Nice work on the cabinets, both of you!
Billy ,
Thank you for the suggestions. I will in 4 weeks get my Music-Sarcophagus. First i will warm them up with my DIY Pass Labs X100 and Pre Pass Labs Aleph P. I know the are old babys , but I like them sound. My CD- Player is Maranz SACD SA-11S1. I hope this wil be perfect combination. In near future i will test DAC NAD M51. Later on I will for sure test the speakers according your suggestions with Duelund Cast Pio's. Near the double Bass-reflex opening is the large rectangular opening , this is big closet room for my X/O. So there will be no problem with the large X/O. i Will use the common Mundorf MCap for the middle Accuton. The Box was first designed for Closed - BOX. Later on i decided that some Bass-Reflex Holes cant do no harm to test it. I can always close them or leave open later on. Depend for my large Listening room 75m/3.
I have heard the combination of your C158 and a normal C25-6-013. With Jadis AMP. This was sound worth life for. And i wanna have better, larger. SO that's why i chose C173. And two Seas Bass drivers. And efficency of the Two Seas drivers is near the same of C173. 91dB-92dB
cT equals piD : Near the dubble Bass-reflex opening is the large rectangular opening , this is big closed room for my X/O. The section that is a smooth concave recess that fits to the back of the cabinet is a`la B&W Matrix construction. For stiffness of thee box.
Thank you for the suggestions. I will in 4 weeks get my Music-Sarcophagus. First i will warm them up with my DIY Pass Labs X100 and Pre Pass Labs Aleph P. I know the are old babys , but I like them sound. My CD- Player is Maranz SACD SA-11S1. I hope this wil be perfect combination. In near future i will test DAC NAD M51. Later on I will for sure test the speakers according your suggestions with Duelund Cast Pio's. Near the double Bass-reflex opening is the large rectangular opening , this is big closet room for my X/O. So there will be no problem with the large X/O. i Will use the common Mundorf MCap for the middle Accuton. The Box was first designed for Closed - BOX. Later on i decided that some Bass-Reflex Holes cant do no harm to test it. I can always close them or leave open later on. Depend for my large Listening room 75m/3.
I have heard the combination of your C158 and a normal C25-6-013. With Jadis AMP. This was sound worth life for. And i wanna have better, larger. SO that's why i chose C173. And two Seas Bass drivers. And efficency of the Two Seas drivers is near the same of C173. 91dB-92dB
cT equals piD : Near the dubble Bass-reflex opening is the large rectangular opening , this is big closed room for my X/O. The section that is a smooth concave recess that fits to the back of the cabinet is a`la B&W Matrix construction. For stiffness of thee box.
Slow,
Thanks for the reply about the section attached to the back and the holes in the cabinet at the wide end. This will be the first time that I've encountered a design with the bass-reflex vent pointing towards the floor. I'm assuming that the wide end with the speaker in operation is the bottom. That must mean that you are planning to support the speaker at a substantial distance above the floor, I would guess.
Thanks for sharing your design with us,
Pete
Thanks for the reply about the section attached to the back and the holes in the cabinet at the wide end. This will be the first time that I've encountered a design with the bass-reflex vent pointing towards the floor. I'm assuming that the wide end with the speaker in operation is the bottom. That must mean that you are planning to support the speaker at a substantial distance above the floor, I would guess.
Thanks for sharing your design with us,
Pete
Hello All ,
Time to update the working process:
The cabinets are almost ready. I mean the wood work and the inner space. The speakers are also working and the XO Is done. Well with the testing components , the Mundorfs Supreme Silver / Oil caps for the Tweeter are on the way. And the Mills 12W ressistors too. So it will sound even better later on.
I want say that this project was for me very risky. I did not know if I will be happy with the end results at the end. For those total price I could buy like B&W 802D or even latest 802 Diamonds that I tested before build time.
And now I heard last Sunday the final results with:
Amps:
DIY : Tube 845 SE AMP
DIY : Pass Labs X100
DIY: AMP A-B 240W
Pre: Pass Labs 1,7 orginal
CD/SACD player : Marantz SA-11 S1
Now for the future builders of DIY I muss say , always believe your dreams !!! My dreams come true. The sound of those speakers is the best ever I heard!!! The most amazing thing was that the Speakers disappeared during the hearing. 3D reproduction. Bass fast and very various. Just I was concentrated on the sound and I believe in that what I was hearing. I didn’t believe that so many info was hiding from me that long. I was stunning. Well half of my CD-s are relay **** ( this I was also the negative feedback how bad the CD-s and even SACD-s are remastered).
The Pass Labs X100 ware very lazy on reproduction for my taste. Well I like the sound ,Detailed on High and Mids like max 70% , but not as the rest of the amps. And the Bass reproduction was the worst of all AMP`s. I will upgrade those in 6 monts to JFET`s. Maybe it will sound better, and more precise.
The Tubes ware about 24W RMS , The sound was very good , but 24W ware to less.
The A/B 240W AMPS DIY build , ware the best option for me. The guy that was builing them like 5 years ;-> , will maybe build 2 monos for me. But I will stick with my Pass Labs X100 for at least 6 months.
SACD Player Marantz SA-11 S1 ware here the weakest component I think. Because a used also him with the DIY ESS Sambre DAC and the difference’s ware very noticeable for advantage of DIY DAC. So I used the Marantz only as transport.
Time to update the working process:
The cabinets are almost ready. I mean the wood work and the inner space. The speakers are also working and the XO Is done. Well with the testing components , the Mundorfs Supreme Silver / Oil caps for the Tweeter are on the way. And the Mills 12W ressistors too. So it will sound even better later on.
I want say that this project was for me very risky. I did not know if I will be happy with the end results at the end. For those total price I could buy like B&W 802D or even latest 802 Diamonds that I tested before build time.
And now I heard last Sunday the final results with:
Amps:
DIY : Tube 845 SE AMP
DIY : Pass Labs X100
DIY: AMP A-B 240W
Pre: Pass Labs 1,7 orginal
CD/SACD player : Marantz SA-11 S1
Now for the future builders of DIY I muss say , always believe your dreams !!! My dreams come true. The sound of those speakers is the best ever I heard!!! The most amazing thing was that the Speakers disappeared during the hearing. 3D reproduction. Bass fast and very various. Just I was concentrated on the sound and I believe in that what I was hearing. I didn’t believe that so many info was hiding from me that long. I was stunning. Well half of my CD-s are relay **** ( this I was also the negative feedback how bad the CD-s and even SACD-s are remastered).
The Pass Labs X100 ware very lazy on reproduction for my taste. Well I like the sound ,Detailed on High and Mids like max 70% , but not as the rest of the amps. And the Bass reproduction was the worst of all AMP`s. I will upgrade those in 6 monts to JFET`s. Maybe it will sound better, and more precise.
The Tubes ware about 24W RMS , The sound was very good , but 24W ware to less.
The A/B 240W AMPS DIY build , ware the best option for me. The guy that was builing them like 5 years ;-> , will maybe build 2 monos for me. But I will stick with my Pass Labs X100 for at least 6 months.
SACD Player Marantz SA-11 S1 ware here the weakest component I think. Because a used also him with the DIY ESS Sambre DAC and the difference’s ware very noticeable for advantage of DIY DAC. So I used the Marantz only as transport.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
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They look fantastic. It's great to read your enthusiastic words about how good they sound.
Did you manage to sell all the mdf dust back to the factory? 🙂
Graham.
Did you manage to sell all the mdf dust back to the factory? 🙂
Graham.
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