I'm not sure what to do here but I have a feeling you guys can help....i'm starting my first diy project and I can get a REALLY good discount on mtx stuff....like these:
http://www.mtx.com/caraudio/products/subwoofers/TechData_T9512-04.pdf
they look like awesome woofers, but I plan on making a sonosub with 2 12s and i know these are made for car audio and I was wondering if I can pull it off with these or should I just buy a good set from adire audio.....thanks in advance.
http://www.mtx.com/caraudio/products/subwoofers/TechData_T9512-04.pdf
they look like awesome woofers, but I plan on making a sonosub with 2 12s and i know these are made for car audio and I was wondering if I can pull it off with these or should I just buy a good set from adire audio.....thanks in advance.
They look pretty serious all right...
If it were me, and the really good deal on them was in fact REALLY good, I'd take advantage of it. I'd build an enclosure that would be capable of accepting another driver, and in the event that the MTXs don't work out I'd sell them and get the alternate brand.
Mark
If it were me, and the really good deal on them was in fact REALLY good, I'd take advantage of it. I'd build an enclosure that would be capable of accepting another driver, and in the event that the MTXs don't work out I'd sell them and get the alternate brand.
Mark
I was hoping that someone here could help me make it work.....I tried to put the info in WinISD but there were parameters missing and I didn't really know what I was doing cause I was figuring on about 4' of 24" sonosub, and I need to know how I need to set these subs up to make them perform in a home theater environment.
Hmm, well you didn't say that in your first post...
If you are using WinISD Pro then you could be right, there may not be enough info to come up with a valid design. However, there's enough to pump into WinISD Beta, and the calcs I got from the specs are:
1 woofer in vented enclosure (default #'s from WinISD)
93.4 litre box volume
23.96 Hz port tuning freq
102mm port diameter
37.4cm port length
3db down point of 21Hz
Now, take these numbers and pump them into the sonosub calculator at this url:
http://www.quux.net/roo/diy/sonosub/sonocalc.html
I think from here you can start playing with the #'s in WinISD and the on-line calculator to get a match for what it is you're looking for. Looks interesting actually....
Mark
If you are using WinISD Pro then you could be right, there may not be enough info to come up with a valid design. However, there's enough to pump into WinISD Beta, and the calcs I got from the specs are:
1 woofer in vented enclosure (default #'s from WinISD)
93.4 litre box volume
23.96 Hz port tuning freq
102mm port diameter
37.4cm port length
3db down point of 21Hz
Now, take these numbers and pump them into the sonosub calculator at this url:
http://www.quux.net/roo/diy/sonosub/sonocalc.html
I think from here you can start playing with the #'s in WinISD and the on-line calculator to get a match for what it is you're looking for. Looks interesting actually....
Mark
You finally told me the woofer you plan on buying. Is this the woofer with the most excursion you can get at an acceptable price?
I'll model it in WinISD Pro, there's enough information on the link you gave me to model it.
I'll model it in WinISD Pro, there's enough information on the link you gave me to model it.
One 24" diameter sonotube with 1.5" endcap on each end so the effective height is 45 inches long.
That means 334 liters, minus volume taken by the ports and drivers. Let say 300 liters to be sure.
Your sonotube is too big for two 12 inches drivers if you want to go vented IMHO. Let me show you the simulation.
In yellow, 2 woofers in a sealed 300 liters sonotube with 1000W RMS amplifier.
In red, 2 woofers in a vented 150 liters sonotube with 1000W RMS amplifier, tuned to 17.87 Hz.
In green, 2 woofers in a vented 300 liters sonotube with 1000W RMS amplifier, tuned to 17.87 Hz to use two common Precision Ports which are four inches diameter and 17 inches long.
That means 334 liters, minus volume taken by the ports and drivers. Let say 300 liters to be sure.
Your sonotube is too big for two 12 inches drivers if you want to go vented IMHO. Let me show you the simulation.
In yellow, 2 woofers in a sealed 300 liters sonotube with 1000W RMS amplifier.
In red, 2 woofers in a vented 150 liters sonotube with 1000W RMS amplifier, tuned to 17.87 Hz.
In green, 2 woofers in a vented 300 liters sonotube with 1000W RMS amplifier, tuned to 17.87 Hz to use two common Precision Ports which are four inches diameter and 17 inches long.
Attachments
Because you can afford such a big sonotube, to use all the space, I recommend to use dual 15" like the Thunder 9500 T9515-04.
http://www.mtxaudio.com/caraudio/products/subwoofers/TechData_T9515-04.pdf
Here you can compare the SPL response curve which is way better. I used 1000W RMS, 17.87 Hz tuning and 300 liters.
In green, dual 12 inches woofers.
In red, dual 15 inches woofers.
In yellow, dual 12 inches woofers but in 150 liters to compare.
If you want to go sealed, then dual 12 inches or dual 15 inches will be great. I used 1000 Watts for fun, you can use less, or more, you can even use the full 2000 Watts RMS these woofers can take if you have a rumble filter on your amplifier.
http://www.mtxaudio.com/caraudio/products/subwoofers/TechData_T9515-04.pdf
Here you can compare the SPL response curve which is way better. I used 1000W RMS, 17.87 Hz tuning and 300 liters.
In green, dual 12 inches woofers.
In red, dual 15 inches woofers.
In yellow, dual 12 inches woofers but in 150 liters to compare.
If you want to go sealed, then dual 12 inches or dual 15 inches will be great. I used 1000 Watts for fun, you can use less, or more, you can even use the full 2000 Watts RMS these woofers can take if you have a rumble filter on your amplifier.
Attachments
WOW.....the curve on those 2 15" woofers looks pretty sweet. I think I have found my woofers....I'm gonna need a pretty darn big amp for these babies...any suggestions on bang for the buck? Also, what does it change that these subs are car subs and not HT subs? I know that probably a common question but I can find a satisfactory answer in my searches....thanks.
Well, if you don't care about using pro external amplifiers, you could use a QSC RMX 1850HD, with about 1800W RMS in bridged mode, so you should use two Thunder 9500 T9515-44 instead of two Thunder 9500 T9515-04. This amplifier offers very good bang for the buck. ( Available at $499 at http://www.acoustic-visions.com/ )
If you don't want a Pro amplifier, you could get two PartsExpress 1000W RMS plate amplifiers, one per woofer. This way you could keep the Thunder 9500 T9515-04. This is also good bang for the buck.
BTW, you can use that much power, but you don't need to. With even a 250W or 500W amplifier, it will be very loud. It only depends on how much money you have.
About car versus home subwoofers... it always depends on the woofer. It's better to check with a simulator. But usually you don't need to have a low Fs in a car because the car reinforce low bass easily. That's why high end subwoofer car drivers can have Fs around 30 Hz versus around 20 Hz for a home subwoofer.
As you can see, some car woofers are very good in a home environment. If you choose the enclosure well, you can fit a car woofer in a home or the opposite. Put the woofer in the simulator and that's it.
If you don't want a Pro amplifier, you could get two PartsExpress 1000W RMS plate amplifiers, one per woofer. This way you could keep the Thunder 9500 T9515-04. This is also good bang for the buck.
BTW, you can use that much power, but you don't need to. With even a 250W or 500W amplifier, it will be very loud. It only depends on how much money you have.
About car versus home subwoofers... it always depends on the woofer. It's better to check with a simulator. But usually you don't need to have a low Fs in a car because the car reinforce low bass easily. That's why high end subwoofer car drivers can have Fs around 30 Hz versus around 20 Hz for a home subwoofer.
As you can see, some car woofers are very good in a home environment. If you choose the enclosure well, you can fit a car woofer in a home or the opposite. Put the woofer in the simulator and that's it.
I feel much better prepared now to get started on my sonosub...your help is greatly appreciated! I'll let you know how the results turn out...I think I'm gonna make sure those babies have PLENTY of juice as I want to really disturb the neighbors 😉
Hehe, good luck in your project, I'll be happy to see the results.
If you don't like my amplifier recommendations, you can tell me what do you plan to buy as an amplifier, I'll tell you if it will be ok.
BTW, the PartsExpress amplifier I'm talking about is 399$, you would need two, so around 800$ versus 500$ for the Pro Amplifier. You get no fans on the other end, so no noise at all.
You better choose the amplifier before ordering the subwoofer drivers. As I said, you might need the 44 instead of the 04.
http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&DID=7&Partnumber=300-808
http://www.acoustic-visions.com/~acoustic/products/subwoofer_amplifiers/qsc_rmx/
If you don't like my amplifier recommendations, you can tell me what do you plan to buy as an amplifier, I'll tell you if it will be ok.
BTW, the PartsExpress amplifier I'm talking about is 399$, you would need two, so around 800$ versus 500$ for the Pro Amplifier. You get no fans on the other end, so no noise at all.
You better choose the amplifier before ordering the subwoofer drivers. As I said, you might need the 44 instead of the 04.
http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&DID=7&Partnumber=300-808
http://www.acoustic-visions.com/~acoustic/products/subwoofer_amplifiers/qsc_rmx/
man those have to be some insane subs i seen the 4500s and i had my stomach ratteling on the 4500 in a factory desing box in a 20*20 room and iam sure those are way better
it was a store display they also had 7500s but not hooked up and was pushed by like a 1000-1200 audiobahn and yes it was duals with 2 heudge slot ports
but i gotta say if u get to hear the kicker solobarics (the square subs by kicker) the kick so much for one i listened to one of the 12" versions and had a little less than as much bass as the 4500s had i think the 45s were 10s-12s
but i gotta say if u get to hear the kicker solobarics (the square subs by kicker) the kick so much for one i listened to one of the 12" versions and had a little less than as much bass as the 4500s had i think the 45s were 10s-12s
heres the site for kicker
personally instead of the 4500s i heard i would gladly go for a box for the dual L7 solobaric subs like the 12"
anyway good luck with the mtxs and heres the site for kicker if u wanna look and ps the solobarics claim ot have 20% more cone area than any round speaker of same size.
and kicker http://www.kicker.com/05/05kicker.html
personally instead of the 4500s i heard i would gladly go for a box for the dual L7 solobaric subs like the 12"
anyway good luck with the mtxs and heres the site for kicker if u wanna look and ps the solobarics claim ot have 20% more cone area than any round speaker of same size.
and kicker http://www.kicker.com/05/05kicker.html
hey simon
Hey simon I am kinda out of the loop on all the new DVC crap so I'm a little confused...If I want to power two 4 Ohm subs with 1 amp (8ohms i suppose) do I need to buy DVC subs? By the way, I would prefer a plate amp if possible. I used to be good at this stuff but everything changes and i've killed a lot of brain cells.
thanks
Hey simon I am kinda out of the loop on all the new DVC crap so I'm a little confused...If I want to power two 4 Ohm subs with 1 amp (8ohms i suppose) do I need to buy DVC subs? By the way, I would prefer a plate amp if possible. I used to be good at this stuff but everything changes and i've killed a lot of brain cells.
thanks
You want to use a plate amplifier or two plate amplifiers?
Home subwoofer plate amplifiers are usually rated at 4 ohms.
You will need to use the DVC 9500 if you want to use a single plate amplifier. Why?
DVC 9500 have two coils rated at 4 ohms each. You put both coils in parallel. You have now a 2 ohms subwoofer (4/2 = 2 ohms). You do the same thing on the 2nd DVC 9500. You put both DVC 9500 in series (2 ohms + 2 ohms = 4 ohms), you are now back at 4 ohms to use the maximum power the single plate amplifier can give you.
If you use two plate amplifiers, so one plate amplifier per subwoofer, you just don't care because you can use the single coil version of the 9500 which is one coil at 4 ohms with a single plate amplifier rated at 4 ohms.
Some people prefer a single plate amplifier, but if you can adjust both gain knobs at the same gain, two plate amplifiers are not a problem hehe!
So, 9500-04 if you use two plate amplifiers or 9500-44 if you want to use a single plate amplifier.
Home subwoofer plate amplifiers are usually rated at 4 ohms.
You will need to use the DVC 9500 if you want to use a single plate amplifier. Why?
DVC 9500 have two coils rated at 4 ohms each. You put both coils in parallel. You have now a 2 ohms subwoofer (4/2 = 2 ohms). You do the same thing on the 2nd DVC 9500. You put both DVC 9500 in series (2 ohms + 2 ohms = 4 ohms), you are now back at 4 ohms to use the maximum power the single plate amplifier can give you.
If you use two plate amplifiers, so one plate amplifier per subwoofer, you just don't care because you can use the single coil version of the 9500 which is one coil at 4 ohms with a single plate amplifier rated at 4 ohms.
Some people prefer a single plate amplifier, but if you can adjust both gain knobs at the same gain, two plate amplifiers are not a problem hehe!
So, 9500-04 if you use two plate amplifiers or 9500-44 if you want to use a single plate amplifier.
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