I am having issues with a Hifonics brz1700.1d amp. Specifically, it doesn't turn on. The last time is was used, which was over a year ago, it functioned flawlessly at 1ohm. Since that time it has been stored inside and in it's box. I just got back in country and hooked this up in another of my cars, in place of another amp. The Hifonics logo lit blue, but when I powered up my head unit, I got no response from the amp. Neither the power, nor the protect LEDs light up. I removed the speaker and RCA wires and tried again. Nothing. I made sure that I had solid connections and wiring. I've got 12v all the way to the amp. Per the manual, I tried a jumper directly between the 12v power and remote on terminals. Still nothing. In which case, the manual says something internally has died and to send it in for repairs.
Well, being a handy person, I thought I'd give it a go myself. Although I don't have much electronic experience, I do enjoy learning new things. So, I pulled the amp apart for a visual inspection and was disappointed by a lack of evidence of prior explosions or infernos. I did notice a layer of crusty business covering a lot of the solder points on the underside of the PCB. I don't know if this is some sort of dielectric coating or if there were some previous spill that found it's way inside, although according to the spread patterns I'd say the latter is improbable. Any input on this would be appreciated. Please refer to the attached photos.
I did bring out the multimeter and begin checking components, but since I do not have a schematic for this amp, I can only assess specific values for a component; I have no idea if the measurements indicate faulty or functioning components. All of the input and output transistors register the same reading, respectively. If someone has access to a labeled diagram or schematic, again, I would be most appreciative.
Thanks
Well, being a handy person, I thought I'd give it a go myself. Although I don't have much electronic experience, I do enjoy learning new things. So, I pulled the amp apart for a visual inspection and was disappointed by a lack of evidence of prior explosions or infernos. I did notice a layer of crusty business covering a lot of the solder points on the underside of the PCB. I don't know if this is some sort of dielectric coating or if there were some previous spill that found it's way inside, although according to the spread patterns I'd say the latter is improbable. Any input on this would be appreciated. Please refer to the attached photos.
I did bring out the multimeter and begin checking components, but since I do not have a schematic for this amp, I can only assess specific values for a component; I have no idea if the measurements indicate faulty or functioning components. All of the input and output transistors register the same reading, respectively. If someone has access to a labeled diagram or schematic, again, I would be most appreciative.
Thanks
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
The substance on the board could be flux that wasn't completely washed off when the board was cleaned or could be left from connections made after flow-soldering.
Does the relay click?
Does it go into protect mode?
Post a photo of the component-side of the board. If it's using the driver board below, the two transistors in the rectangle are likely suspects as well as the op-amp closest to the top of the same board.
Does the relay click?
Does it go into protect mode?
Post a photo of the component-side of the board. If it's using the driver board below, the two transistors in the rectangle are likely suspects as well as the op-amp closest to the top of the same board.
Attachments
Thanks for the quick reply Perry. There is no click. The protect light does not illuminate. The only thing that happens is the Hifonics logo lights up.
That appears to be the same board that is in this amp. How can I test these components to verify if they are functioning optimally or not?
Also, is there any easy tip for getting those transistor clips back in place?
That appears to be the same board that is in this amp. How can I test these components to verify if they are functioning optimally or not?
Also, is there any easy tip for getting those transistor clips back in place?
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Removal and reinstallation below. The 'nutdriver' and the graphic go together. You simply tap them back into place.
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/car-...sistor-clamps.html?postid=1317683#post1317683
http://www.bcae1.com/temp/springclips01b.gif
There's really no way to test them. The transistors sometimes check good with a multimeter but will not function well enough in the circuit. These typically cause the amp to go into protect. The op-amp can't be checked. When it fails, the amp often seems to work but won't produce audio.
You may also simply have a defective relay drive circuit.
I'd expect some response other than the blue logo on top.
Check the DC voltage on the center legs of the rectifiers to make sure that the power supply is functioning.
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/car-...sistor-clamps.html?postid=1317683#post1317683
http://www.bcae1.com/temp/springclips01b.gif
There's really no way to test them. The transistors sometimes check good with a multimeter but will not function well enough in the circuit. These typically cause the amp to go into protect. The op-amp can't be checked. When it fails, the amp often seems to work but won't produce audio.
You may also simply have a defective relay drive circuit.
I'd expect some response other than the blue logo on top.
Check the DC voltage on the center legs of the rectifiers to make sure that the power supply is functioning.
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