I have done searches and seen posts for modifying HCCA225's into an 275SX's, so I suppose the reverse is possible also.
What needs to be done to modify a 2150GX into a HCCA250?
What needs to be done to modify a 2150GX into a HCCA250?
I don't mean to discourage you but why are you going to attempt this? Why not simply buy the correct speakers to get full power from the amp as it is?
If you do this, you'll need to rewind the transformer. Otherwise the mods should not be difficult.
I don't have the ratio of the 250 transformer, someone else here may have it. They will also need to tell you the rail voltage so you can modify the regulator.
If you do this, you'll need to rewind the transformer. Otherwise the mods should not be difficult.
I don't have the ratio of the 250 transformer, someone else here may have it. They will also need to tell you the rail voltage so you can modify the regulator.
I already have two DIYMA12 subs that are 5ohm each. These subs have gotten great reviews and more importantly I already own them.
I can either run them at 10 ohms or 2.5ohms. Maybe 150 watts per speaker would be fine, I really don't know. I don't listen to music very loud. Do you think 150 watts per subs would be sufficient?
My other choice I guess would be to make the amp staple into 2.5 ohms, but from reading a previous thread that seems to be running on the hairy edge. I guess could run a squirrel cage fan to keep the amp cool.
I can either run them at 10 ohms or 2.5ohms. Maybe 150 watts per speaker would be fine, I really don't know. I don't listen to music very loud. Do you think 150 watts per subs would be sufficient?
My other choice I guess would be to make the amp staple into 2.5 ohms, but from reading a previous thread that seems to be running on the hairy edge. I guess could run a squirrel cage fan to keep the amp cool.
I think you should try running it at 5 ohms per channel to see if it's enough for you. If it's not, then you could try modifying it.
That is a very reasonable approach. One of the blue caps plastic
covers has fallen off. Does that mean it needs to be replaced. Should I do any other refurb at the same time?
covers has fallen off. Does that mean it needs to be replaced. Should I do any other refurb at the same time?
Sometimes, the shrink wrap on the electrolytics will split and fall off when the cap overheats. If no electrolyte has leaked, the cap is probably OK.
If you do any work on the amp, you may want to replace the large electrolytics. Most are probably still within tolerance but I've seen several older orion amps that had rail caps short and destroy the power supplies. They were black. I've never seen the brown or yellow caps short.
You'll need a good soldering iron and lots of patience to change them without damaging the board.
If you do any work on the amp, you may want to replace the large electrolytics. Most are probably still within tolerance but I've seen several older orion amps that had rail caps short and destroy the power supplies. They were black. I've never seen the brown or yellow caps short.
You'll need a good soldering iron and lots of patience to change them without damaging the board.
The amp has four large dark blue 3300ìF50v and two smaller light blue16V3300ìF capacitors. One of the light blue capacitors has the shrink split off. None of the capacitors is leaking. I didn't see any large black capacitors. Should I be concerned about these or assume everything is working properly?
Everything is probably OK. If the cap showed signs of leaking electrolyte, it would need to be replaced but the one in your amp isn't leaking.
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